Convex edge Sharpening System

S

StretchNM

Joined
Dec 7, 2006
Messages
2,806
Since getting into Bark River knives, I've had to learn how to handle convex-ground edges. I'm certainly no expert but this system has been working very well for me. It's the same one recommended at the BRKT Society site with a couple of personal modifications.

ConvexSharpeningKit-01.jpg


I use the 800 wet/dry if the edge has become dull or I've dropped and nicked the knife (yeah, that was dumb!). Then I'll go to the 1000 and finally 2000. If the knife is just lost its razor edge I'll either strop it or go to the 2000 and finish with the strop.

I started stropping my edges using very, very light pressure. Another forum member recommended a little more pressure, which I've begun doing, and my edges are even sharper now.

I hope this helps somebody with their convex grinds.
 
Good photo and nice setup. The 2 commonly linked convex tutorials lack a good photo of the materials needed. I think your pic will be very helpful to anyone starting out with their new Bark River, etc.

On the strop, are you using rough or smooth side up?
 
Thanks Keith,
I'm using smooth side up. On the bottom of that block (other side) is a piece of 9oz with rough side out. It's buttered up with green too. Sometimes I use it, but generally I use that side for trying to get minor scratches off the face of the blade. I'm not sure it actually works any faster or better at that than the smooth side, but that's what I do.
 
timing could not have been better on this post. Im expecting my bravo-1 in on Monday and was just looking into this convex sharpening thing, now I just have to figure out a local place that sells these necessities.

Thanks stretch!
 
Hey IH8U,
Good choice and good luck with the Bravo-1.
Most auto-parts stores (especially if they sell auto body supplies and paint) will have the wet/dry. For 2000k, you may have to go elsewhere. A good place to get the leather is Tandy online, but the knife supplies (google Texas knife supplies, et al) actually have some 12x12 pieces of leather that I'm sure is premium.
I glued the strop down with contact cement although yellow glue will work every bit as well, you'll just have to clamp it (with a backer board on top) for a few hours. I just cut a mousepad in half and I tape the wet/dry to it so I can pull it off, turn it 180 degrees, and use the top half before changing.
Good luck.
 
I can't vouch for the steel. THe only stainless I've sharpened with wet/dry is Bark River's 12C27. I go all the way to 2000, but I think 600 grit would shave arm hair well enough. Stropping it would only increase its effectiveness, but I still would want to go higher if I could.
 
Esav Benyamin said:
A few strips of leather and sandpaper works better in the field. :)
Click to expand...

You're right! :D

But I seldom sharpen in the field. With good steel, like D-2, it isn't usually necessary.

Of course, I do carry strops in my camper for "just in case!" :p
 
The only thing I'll add is that not every convexed knife has the same "angle" (for lack of better word) to it. I have at least 7 different Barkies, and in the beginning I was doing the same angle while stropping with all of them. Some got screaming sharp, others NOT. As my learning curve progressed, I began to take each individual knife and rotate the blade on the strop until it "caught" the edge, then stropped backwards at this angle. This will give you the proper angle each time. I have a Sperati and a micro-canadian that are quite thick at the edge and take a higher angle. I have a mini-canadian that is kinda thin and takes a shallower angle. The rest are in-between. Also, as others have said... you don't need much pressure, just the correct angle.
 
One thing I really like that you've done, Stretch, is using a leather backing for the 2000 grit paper. Mousepad I find has too much give for applying a final edge ... too easy for someone clumsy like me to apply a bit too much pressure or have the angle a little high, and <poof!> there goes your edge. So using mousepad with the courser grit(s) then going to leather seems like a great system.
 
Dog of War said:
One thing I really like that you've done, Stretch, is using a leather backing for the 2000 grit paper. Mousepad I find has too much give for applying a final edge ..
Click to expand...

Before getting the belt sander, I found, by experimentation, that a thick strip of leather works better for me than a mousepad for all grits.
 
Here's a stupid question. Are the mouse pads that you guys use just the standard thickness? The reason I ask is because looking at mine it doesn't feel like it has enough give to contour to the blade, especially with the only moderate pressure that you're supposed to use.

Am I missing something?
 
Read through the posts again and you'll see that you really don't want much give. You need to work towards the angle for your knife's edge and work around that. A soft substrate will round over the edge.
 
Ben Dover said:
Before getting the belt sander, I found, by experimentation, that a thick strip of leather works better for me than a mousepad for all grits.
Click to expand...
I also like a rubber sanding block, the kind used for auto body work. With 3/0 emery paper -- about 600 grit IIRC -- it does a decent job and works fast.

.
 
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