Convex Edge Sharpening

[telocky]

I picked up a Fallkniven S1 and realized that it has a convex edge. I assume this is the same type of edge Busse puts on his blades. Is there a commercial sharpener for convex edge blades or does one use the method the Busse website lays out "mouse pad with sandpaper"?

 

[Deadhead Archer]

There is no commercial convex sharpening system. However, you can easily put a V-edge on a convex edge if that is more convenient for you.

Bark River has a good tutorial for sharpening convex edges here: http://www.barkriverknives.com/convex.htm

Wet/dry sandpaper works best; I start with 200 grit and go to 400, 800, 1000, 1500, and finally 2000; and follow with a loaded strop. You can get +1000 grit sandpaper from auto-supply stores.

The idea behind the mousepad is to use a surface that has some degree of "give". I've read where some people use phone books as well. You don't want a medium that is too soft as it will round off your edges. Same idea as far as pressure on the edge, you don't want to press too hard or else you'll round the edge.

A good technique is to use a black sharpie on the edge, and then make a few swipes on sandpaper. When examining the edge, you can see where you are wearing away the marker. If you are holding the spine too low, you will remove ink from the shoulders and not the edge (a common mistake).

Maintaining a constant angle is the trick to all sharpening, although free-hand convex edges are a little more forgiving than free-hand v-edges.

Most of all, have fun!

 

[telocky]

Thanks.

Yea - I said Busse, but I think that Bark River article is the one I saw. Thanks again for the link!!

G

 

[StretchNM]

I do the same thing as the Archer, but I don;t go down to 200. I have 320, 400, 600, 800, 1000, 1500, and 2000 set up (with the later two mounted on leather which is mounted on wood). If your knife isn;t dull, I wouldn;t go below 1500 until you get the hang of it. If it's a little dull, maybe start with 1000.....nice light strokes, remembering to turn the knife at the belly to tip to keep the stropping going perpendicular to the edge. Nice, low angle for starters - nice light strokes. SOmebody said "so light that you'd swear nothing's happening to the steel". Well, maybe not *quite* that light I normally go about 10 or so on one side, then do the other, then on like that.

Here's an old pic:

 

[Ben Dover]

And one of the MOST important things to remember is to use no more pressure than the weight of the blade. If the blade is heavy, use even less than it's weight.

It requires a bit of patience, (but what doesn't?) and you end up with a hair splitting, polished edge that cuts very well, and lasts.

 

[telocky]

Thanks guys, can most of the paper be found and lowes and/or home depot??? Or are the auto stores the only places with 1000 plus grit?

After the sand paper are you using any paste heated into leather like Bark River suggests? If so - where do you find it?

 

[WhitleyStu]

telocky,
Check your email...

 

[telocky]

Thanks,

Got it.

 

[Brian_T]

For maintenance of that edge once you've got it sharp you should check out the new strop bats from JRE Industries.

They're pre-loading a four sided strop bat and the three compounds (black, green, and now pink) plus the plain side should keep you from sharpening for some time once the edge is established.

You could probably put some paper on the plain leather side if you really needed to touch up the edge but those convex edges last a lo-ong time with proper maintenance.

B

 

[CShepherd]

I've had the best luck finding the basic wet/dry paper at Ace Hardward or an auto parts store that sells painting supplies.

Definitely try the convex edge. The more I use it the more I like it.

Charlie

 

[gadusgadus]

And one of the MOST important things to remember is to use no more pressure than the weight of the blade. If the blade is heavy, use even less than it's weight.

It requires a bit of patience, (but what doesn't?) and you end up with a hair splitting, polished edge that cuts very well, and lasts.

I had no idea so little pressure was needed Ben, I've been struggling with my F1.Incidentally do you get jokes about your name? Mine is Phil Mc Cavity (Aberdeen, Scotland) and it occured to me as a duo we would attract even more wise cracks! ( though probably not as bad as the two Irishmen William Fitzpatrick and Patrick Fitzwilliam)

 

[telocky]

The odd thing about fallkniven is that even though they say on the box that it IS a convex edge, they recommend fine diamond stone sharpening followed by ceramic....

Hmmmm.... maybe i need to buy another just to test the two different methods....

 

[dantzk8]

The odd thing about fallkniven is that even though they say on the box that it IS a convex edge, they recommend fine diamond stone sharpening followed by ceramic....

That's the way i sharpen my F1. All the grind has to meet the stone from the edge to the spine. just twist the wrist to follow the convex curvature. It works for me.

dantzk.