Coping blade question

Very interesting picture from that Rem catalogue/advert. Despite the confusion, I think they show a beautiful blade there- with that Wharncliffe-Sabre. Wish you could get a knife with one now!
 
Very interesting picture from that Rem catalogue/advert. Despite the confusion, I think they show a beautiful blade there- with that Wharncliffe-Sabre. Wish you could get a knife with one now!

Will-You Can.......Northwoods "Modified Wharncliffe" versions. They are pretty close to that style, probably thicker blade stock though.
 
I don’t know how much sense this will make, but I’ll try.

Assume a right angle inside corner. Assume you’re running the same base mold all around the room.

Run one piece of base, square into the corner. Miter cut (45° angle) the end of the other stick. Use the line where the miter cut meets the base’s surface as your cutting line. That’s faster and more accurate than scribing.

Cut along that line with a coping saw. Don’t make a right angle cut. For the same reason you don’t use an inside miter cut on in inside corner. Any junk where surface meets surface makes the joint gape. So…

Use a miter box to get your line. Cut with a coping saw angled so that the curved edge you’re defining is the first to touch the already-nailed-in base. Fine tune with a sharp knife. If you spend the day running trim, with a good finish bench, it’s a quick process.

Say I need to do a single inside joint. I don’t have my coping saw with me. I’ll make the miter cut and cut the coping joint with just a knife. That’s slower than using a coping saw. But faster than walking to my toolbox.

Most of the time on the job, my coping knife is my Stanley knife. If I need to cut tighter curves I’ll use my Jr. Stockman.
 
Very interesting picture from that Rem catalogue/advert. Despite the confusion, I think they show a beautiful blade there- with that Wharncliffe-Sabre. Wish you could get a knife with one now!

Maserin Filiscjna :thumbup:

 
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