Council Ax, 6 lb, flat-head review

David Martin

David Martin

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I received my Council 6 lb ax today. First impressions are: it was well packed, the handle is straight, unfinished and well fitted to the ax. The ax is heavy and well suited for a splitting axe. It's edge was quickly done with a coarse file and the burrs not removed. No problem, I'm
working on it now with a Norton- fine India stone and it's responding well. Over all I like it and
it is U.S.A. made. DMCouncilax.jpg
 
Looks like a good axe for splitting wood to me, I've heard nothing but good things about council tools so congrats.
 
Ok, after taking a fine file to it then on to my x fine India for a good edge, I gave this 6 lb. Council ax a solid 2 hr. workout. I showed it no 'tender foot ease in time'. At first I thought, wow, this ax splits 75% better than my 4 lb. Hults. Then the more I worked it I decided it splits way
better than my Hults. More like 100%. It penetrates deep on the first swing, after the second hit I can use a wedge. Some of them broke
open on the second hit. I was surprised. After an hour of splitting I checked the edge and found one or 2 areas of curling. I straightened
those out and the curling did not return after the second hour. This axe is a workhorse. I used the poll in starting the wedge, then my
maul to drive it. I noticed a slight divot on the poll but no flaring at the side. So, it may work for some wedge starting. Plus, it's 36" handle helps increase the power of each swing. Overall, I really
like this axe for splitting. I wish I'd had it 5 years ago. It would have saved me a lot of swings. It is worth the dollars I spent on it and
I'll give it a good home. DM
Councilsp.jpg
 
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David Martin said:
Ok, after taking a fine file to it then on to my x fine India for a good edge, I gave this 6 lb. Council ax a solid 2 hr. workout. I showed it no 'tender foot ease in time'. At first I thought, wow, this ax splits 75% better than my 4 lb. Hults. Then the more I worked it I decided it splits way
better than my Hults. More like 100%. It penetrates deep on the first swing, after the second hit I can use a wedge. Some of them broke
open on the second hit. I was surprised. After an hour of splitting I checked the edge and found one or 2 areas of curling. I straightened
those out and the curling did not return after the second hour. This axe is a workhorse. I used the poll in starting the wedge, then my
maul to drive it. I noticed a slight divot on the poll but no flaring at the side. So, it may work for some wedge starting. Overall, I really
like this axe for splitting. I wish I'd had it 5 years ago. It would have saved me a lot of swings. It is worth the dollars I spent on it and
I'll give it a good home. DM
View attachment 1025415
Click to expand...
I don't think most axe polls are exactly lead soft, so you're probably not going to see much damage at first from just a little light pounding.
I wouldn't use this to hammer wedges with, but it's your axe after all.
 
councilax-jpg.1025307


6lb's makes for a big axe!
 
Hickory n steel Hickory n steel , you said the same thing when I used my 4 lb. Hults to hammer T post. Not one thing happened to that one. So, the hammer portion of a axe is just on there for looks... It's a tool and I'm going to use it. DM
 
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Going from a 3.5 lb. Kelly Perfect on to a 4 lb. Hults and now a 6 lb. Council is like night and day. This ax penetrates well before it starts
to wedge the wood apart. Which is a good design feature. The cheeks on it are some rough and I'm going to sand them smooth. Which I
think will help it further. Not much fault with this one. If you're interested in owning a splitting ax, I can recommend this one.
Going from a 4 lb. to a 6 lb. I did notice the weight difference. So, I wouldn't use this one for limbing. DM
 
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I'm pretty sure that most destroyed axe polls are from people repeatedly getting them stuck and then hammering on them as if the axe was a wedge. The way you are using it, it may mark up a little but should not deform.
 
Thank you gents for these comments.
jb, after I chop the round a few times, if it doesn't break apart, I'll try to get a wedge started. Then give it the pay-off blow with my maul.
Not using the Council for this hit. Just trying to be clear on this. Heck, the divot I saw could have been on it when it was new, as it was slight.The ax has not loosened in the eye. It has an aluminum wedge. DM
 
jblyttle said:
I'm pretty sure that most destroyed axe polls are from people repeatedly getting them stuck and then hammering on them as if the axe was a wedge. The way you are using it, it may mark up a little but should not deform.
Click to expand...

Yes. And the thick eye walls of this 6 pound axe will liMIT eye damage from hammering. This axe should withstand more than a 3.5 or 4 pound axe would.
 
Ok, thanks.
I've been thinking on what finish to give the handle. I have linseed oil and Johnson's wood wax. Just wondering which would be better. DM
 
So, what are those axes in the video? They seemed to be matching. Fairly short handle, and maybe some kind of collar? Thin, widish bit.
 
David Martin said:
Ok, thanks.
I've been thinking on what finish to give the handle. I have linseed oil and Johnson's wood wax. Just wondering which would be better. DM
Click to expand...
Iv'e had great luck lately with BLO/Turp followed by pine tar. Nice color, very nice feel on the hands and no waxy permanent finish that future treatment can't get through.
 
F FLINT77 , they look to be a DeWalt 3.5 lb.. Those have that type handle. On pine, one hit about anywhere and it will split. The bark had
already peeled on those rounds, so it was cured wood. Plus, he cut the rounds short 13-14" and that helps it to split. There is a round of pine I split in the wheelbarrow above ^ which was a measured 17.5" tall and it split with one light hit from the 6 lb. Council axe. It went through fast and buried into the plywood. DM
 
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