Disk grinder

Joined
Nov 14, 2018
Messages
163
I have been holding off on buying a disk grinder as I’m not sure how useful it will be for me.
I have heard that they can be used to profile knife blanks and that peaked my interest. Also using it for flattening flats and tangs and stuff sounds good.
I am looking at the one on tru-grit site it’s 1hp I believe with vfd.
Looking for thoughts thanks much
 
The TruGrit disc grinder is a great precision machine.

If you do not have a surface grinder, a disc is the way to go.

Put it on a base, use two shelf supports and mount a board behind it.

This way you can flip if from horizontal to vertical in seconds.

Also add a foot pedal on/off when you want to keep hands on until disc stops spinning.
 
The TruGrit disc grinder is a great precision machine.

If you do not have a surface grinder, a disc is the way to go.

Put it on a base, use two shelf supports and mount a board behind it.

This way you can flip if from horizontal to vertical in seconds.

Also add a foot pedal on/off when you want to keep hands on until disc stops spinning.
I’ll second the disk grinder from TruGrit. Coupled with a Neilson magnetic disc set , you have a great tool!,

Steve Hostetler
 
The TruGrit disc grinder is a great precision machine.
Also add a foot pedal on/off when you want to keep hands on until disc stops spinning.
I think that foot pedal for disc grinder is brilliant idea :thumbsup: What do you think about this , keep blade on disc before the disc starts to turn ?
 
Last edited:
The TruGrit disc grinder is a great precision machine.

If you do not have a surface grinder, a disc is the way to go.

Put it on a base, use two shelf supports and mount a board behind it.

This way you can flip if from horizontal to vertical in seconds.

Also add a foot pedal on/off when you want to keep hands on until disc stops spinning.


AVigil AVigil - Adam, you by any chance have a picture of what you're describing regarding the base and two shelf supports to be able to flip it from vertical to horizontal? I've been meaning to figure out a simple way to use mine horizontally, for flattening the ricasso and sharpening etc.

Also, will a "plug and play" type foot switch work when using a VFD? I was a bit worried it might ruin mine if I tried using one, like the type you can get at harbor freight and simply plug the unit into. I figured I would have to wire it up myself into the VFD, which I am pretty clueless about when it comes to figuring out what goes where.


The only thing I'm not to fond of about the Tru-Grit disc grinder design are the supports that the work rest attaches to get in the way of being able to use to whole face, which might get in the way when flattening bevels on a larger blade or in other ways. I've never actually used one, so I'm not sure how much they would interfere in practice.


----

I personally have the Pheer disc grinder, which I bought when he first started selling them. Mine came a generic motor with the Tru-Grit blue anodized disc and a kbac 24d VFD, and then I was lucky enough to score a KMG work rest secondhand in basically mint condition and for an excellent price. I'm really glad I have it and it has helped a ton, but for the money and the set up, I think it's hard to beat what the AMK offers, and I would probably get that one if I had to start from scratch. I think I'd like using that work rest better than my KMG, as it's pretty heavy and bulky, which isn't necessarily a bad thing. The rest looks easy adjusted and removed, and there's nothing getting in the way of using the whole disc face, or behind it (the KMG rest has fairly large plate that attaches behind the disc on the face of the motor), so you could also clean up the plunges with a file guide like Tim Hancock does if you wanted to. The solid base makes it look easy to flip from vertical to horizontal while remaining secure/stable.

It also looks like you can adjust it to any angle you'd need. I don't think you can go passed 46 degrees with the Tru-Grit rest. With the KMG rest you "can" go beyond 45 degress, but it has a large steel rod welded to the bottom of the rest (which is how it attaches to the arms and rotates) which gets in the way of moving the rest all the way up to the face of the disc when going beyond 45, so basically the rod bumps into the disc some distance before the actual work rest does and leaves a large gap between the disc and the work rest. I have though about grinding away half of it's thickness/diameter so I can actually implement the steeper angles with the rest, but I don't want to commit to doing that quite yet.

FWIW, here is a video showing the AMK disc grinder:



~Paul
My Youtube Channel
... (Just some older videos of some knives I've made in the past)
 
Hey guys thanks for the great feedback! I’m not married to any brand grinder.
I am having a tough time visualizing how to mount it so it can be switched form horizontal to vertical. Ha I’m a bit slow...
But does anyone rough out their blanks with these? What would the benefit be? Maybe paper is cheaper than sanding belts?
Someone should tell you that when you start knife making your real new hobby will be buying tools....
 
Wow that sounds good! Does anyone have those 1 degree bevel disks those look really nice for flattening tangs
 
The feature A knife maker needs most on a disc grinder is a reverse switch so he can switch sides of the disc to use while still grinding in a downward direction. Rod Nielson magnetic disc plates are a nice luxury to have but not essential...I have them though. The repeatable angle table that is sold by Beaumont Metal Specialties is one of my favorite tools even though I put it off for two years because of the expense. These are just my opinions. Larry

xVhXapOl.jpg
 
Hey guys thanks for the great feedback! I’m not married to any brand grinder.
I am having a tough time visualizing how to mount it so it can be switched form horizontal to vertical. Ha I’m a bit slow...
But does anyone rough out their blanks with these? What would the benefit be? Maybe paper is cheaper than sanding belts?
Someone should tell you that when you start knife making your real new hobby will be buying tools....

To your first question, just watch the video I posted in my above comment, you can see the base of the AMK can just be laid two ways, 90 degrees from each other, in other words for vertical and horizontal grinding. I'm guessing the whole thing weighs enough to not require actual mounting, but I believe it has holes for mounts. I find C-clamps handy for temporary mounting, which is how I secured my disc grinder for a quite a while before actually bolting it (no need for me to keep it easy to move since I can only use it in the vertical position).

As to your second question, I would have to say no, it's definitely not ideal for profiling, not that you couldn't do it, but it's not very economical for that since it would take quite a while and at least a few sheets of paper or sanding discs. It could be used to clean up your profile, but it can't get into inward curves very well since it's hard and fairly "sharp" at the outer edge of the disc. Discs don't have nearly as much surface area as a 2x72" belt so they can dull much faster when trying to hog off material which also would lead to faster heat buildup.

A disc grinder is great for getting things FLAT, which a belt grinder can't really do due to the way a belt is freely riding over the platen and so to top and bottom of what you're grinding will always be slightly rounded or ground more than the center of what you're grinding (such as the inside of handle scales), because the pressure caused by pushing the material into the platen slightly "pinches" the belt at the top and bottom of the piece.

It's great for getting scales flat, handle blocks flat and square prior to precisely fitting a hidden tang and a guard, for getting a ricasso FLAT in order to get a clean guard fit up, for getting the ricasso AND tang flat on a full tang knife as well so there aren't any gaps between the tang and scales. It's nice for getting bevels flat and clean prior to hand sanding which can help speed it up quite a bit. Basically, it great for cleaning up the rough work done at the grinder. It's also great for beveling the front of scales and/or bolsters, or dovetailing scales and bolsters to fit each other with the aid of the tilting work rest

You could also use a granite surface plate to get things really flat, but it'll be more work and take longer. It's kinda similar to saying to can use a file and sandpaper to grind your bevels instead of a belt grinder, but it would take quite a bit longer.

It easier to appreciate a disc grinder more after you've been making knives for a little while and begin to notice how often you're wanting to get things flatter than you can on a belt grinder. Hope that helps out a bit.


Edit: BTW, when I mention the "KMG" disc grinder work rest in my first comment, I'm referring to the one sold by Beaumont Metal Works, who are well known for the KMG belt grinder.

~Paul
My Youtube Channel
... (Just some older videos of some knives I've made in the past)
 
Last edited:
I just purchased the pheer 1 h.p. and a KMG workrest. Thing is a tank. If you go this route call pheer after your order to make sure the right face plate is shipped on the motor to match the KMG workrest.
 
Thanks Paul that does answer all my questions thanks for the detailed response it is appreciated!
The disc grinder I had was stolen by Palo Balzano, If he ever asks to use your shop? Say HELL NO! ————————-The disc was great for flattening Flat grinds, Tangs and wooden scales prior to doing a few figure eights on a granite or glass piece with 220 grit paper before finally assembly of the scales. —————I had the 1 degree disc and that means you can run longer blades on it! Get the reverse switch. I still have the Disk attachment for my Hardcore Grinder but the motor, while variable speed, doesn’t have a reverse switch .. Hope this helps... PS, I wouldn’t look to a disc grinder for doing profiling work , unless you to do some fine finishing work? I would use one of my 2 x 72 grinders and a 36 grit ceramic belt with the motor at full speed. I’ve had my set patterns all Water Jet cut for the last 10 years so I Only profile a few knives a years now for special requests...
 
Last edited:
Looks like you are not his only victim. People on Kickstarter got scammed as well it seems
Quite a few have been burned by him. Just wanted to make sure as many as possible know! I won’t bring it up again here.. there is a long thread about him in TG&B ugly!!
 
  • Like
Reactions: Mo2
I think that foot pedal for disc grinder is brilliant idea :thumbsup: What do you think about this , keep blade on disc before the disc starts to turn ?
Yes,

Keep part on disc, use foot switch then turn off with foot switch, never lifting part while running.

Makes it far more consistent
 
I second having one with variable speed and ability to reverse. I use one for every knife. Flattening mating surfaces. I've gotten to the point where I barely use my granite surface anymore. I got a Pheer and bought the pricey but excellent Beaumont work rest like the above poster.
 
Back
Top