DIY Heat Treat Oven Build

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I made some updates and built a new panel with a PID and a timer.
 
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I added 1 inch ceramic fiber blanket on top and at 1850F the top was only 90F, I was going to and I will install on the sides and back but I didn't had enough angle bar so will be installed soon I get the angle bar.
 
Luis Barros said:
I added 1 inch ceramic fiber blanket on top and at 1850F the top was only 90F, I was going to and I will install on the sides and back but I didn't had enough angle bar so will be installed soon I get the angle bar.
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Do you know temperature on top before you add ceramic blanket ? I wonder what difference would make in heat uniformity rounding edges of bricks / to get same thickness of walls all over/ like on Evenheat ovens ?
 
Natlek said:
Do you know temperature on top before you add ceramic blanket ? I wonder what difference would make in heat uniformity rounding edges of bricks / to get same thickness of walls all over/ like on Evenheat ovens ?
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I think the reason the bricks are rounded on an even heat is becaus thy use really thin sheet metal and pull it tight with a bracket in the bottom side. This would not be possible if the bricks had their corners still.
 
Natlek said:
Do you know temperature on top before you add ceramic blanket ? I wonder what difference would make in heat uniformity rounding edges of bricks / to get same thickness of walls all over/ like on Evenheat ovens ?
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The top before was around 700F, I will install on the sides back and maybe the door, if I can keep the heat inside better.
 
Maybe you are right JT .But on edges on square wall kiln we have more thickness /material/ and more surface to radiate heat ......so it would be more cooler then rest of wall ..........
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Edit to add ...............Think about it as it is steel plate .If we put it in oven first will heat edge , then when cooling first will cool same that edges ...If corners are round ?
 
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700°? Are you serious? What is your brick thickness? My oven with just 3” of brick stays under 200° on all surfaces for the most part. And that’s after sitting in the 1900-2000 range for 3+ hours minimum.
 
JTknives said:
700°? Are you serious? What is your brick thickness? My oven with just 3” of brick stays under 200° on all surfaces for the most part. And that’s after sitting in the 1900-2000 range for 3+ hours minimum.
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2.5" and was hot as hell, if my laser gun is right was 700F
 
Natlek said:
Maybe you are right JT .But on edges on square wall kiln we have more thickness /material/ and more surface to radiate heat ......so it would be more cooler then rest of wall ..........
q2UjZ56.png

Edit to add ...............Think about it as it is steel plate .If we put it in oven first will heat edge , then when cooling first will cool same that edges ...If corners are round ?
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But the corners also have more refractory which will transmit less heat to the outside shell.
 
JTknives said:
Those bricks must not be very good insulators. Was the brick soft, could you carve into it with your fingernails?
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Yes they are soft and I can carve with my fingernails, just finished installing 1 inch of fiber insulation and I'm going to replace my inkbird PID with an Auber which has 2 alarms.
 
Replaced my inkbird PID with the auber and what's a difference, if I set the temperature at 500 or 1500 the temperature will stay +/- 2 F comparing with inkbird which would go over the temperature 20-30 and then bellow about 50F. The dual alarm didn't help me because one is for high temp and other for low temp, so I wired my panel to high temp alarm and I would start the timer (Inkbird timer) with the time I want which at the end another alarm would sound and will turn off the element. I like this way better because when I open the door to put the blade in the temperature goes down fast and I will start the timer only when reaches the temp.
My state is going on lockdown today at 9PM and I'm already feeling like I'm house arrested.
 
Luis Barros said:
Replaced my inkbird PID with the auber and what's a difference, if I set the temperature at 500 or 1500 the temperature will stay +/- 2 F comparing with inkbird which would go over the temperature 20-30 and then bellow about 50F. The dual alarm didn't help me because one is for high temp and other for low temp, so I wired my panel to high temp alarm and I would start the timer (Inkbird timer) with the time I want which at the end another alarm would sound and will turn off the element. I like this way better because when I open the door to put the blade in the temperature goes down fast and I will start the timer only when reaches the temp.
My state is going on lockdown today at 9PM and I'm already feeling like I'm house arrested.
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Be safe. It is good the new controller is behaving better :)
 
Luis Barros said:
Replaced my inkbird PID with the auber and what's a difference, if I set the temperature at 500 or 1500 the temperature will stay +/- 2 F comparing with inkbird which would go over the temperature 20-30 and then bellow about 50F. The dual alarm didn't help me because one is for high temp and other for low temp, so I wired my panel to high temp alarm and I would start the timer (Inkbird timer) with the time I want which at the end another alarm would sound and will turn off the element. I like this way better because when I open the door to put the blade in the temperature goes down fast and I will start the timer only when reaches the temp.
My state is going on lockdown today at 9PM and I'm already feeling like I'm house arrested.
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I'm about to take this project on. Which Auber did you use? Also if you happen to have one would you mind sharing your wiring diagram?
 
Made this account just to ask this question lol

What have you done for fuses? Dan Comeau says 20amp panel mount fuse holders but I can't seem to find those outside of specialty wholesalers... And those are 6x30mm. Why do we need two fuses? They offer glass slow blow up to 15amp but then it seems we have to go ceramic for the 20amp fuse?
 
Tarkus said:
Made this account just to ask this question lol

What have you done for fuses? Dan Comeau says 20amp panel mount fuse holders but I can't seem to find those outside of specialty wholesalers... And those are 6x30mm. Why do we need two fuses? They offer glass slow blow up to 15amp but then it seems we have to go ceramic for the 20amp fuse?
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These fuses and this fuse holder work.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08338R9XT/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000XBB8YI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And this post goes over the reason for the fuses. https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/heat-treat-oven-wiring-schematic.985651/
 
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