Does anyone actually “prefer” pouch sheaths??

Do you prefer a pouch sheath

  • Yes

    Votes: 11 61.1%

  • Oh heck no

    Votes: 6 33.3%

  • I’d rather use bacon as a sheath

    Votes: 1 5.6%
  • Total voters
    18
D

Dago Red

Joined
Jun 16, 2008
Messages
987
All right, I think I’m using the right term. The lazy sheath, the one everyone understandable starts with. Simple taco that’s open on the top. Basket sheath? How many of you actually PREFER them over other types?

The only upside I see is it’s easy to put your knife away. The flip side is you only get one or two fingers on the grip till you draw and repositions a little, they seldom fit snug. I get it, leather can’t be easy to work and we all start somewhere, but why not just simple blade sheaths with a snap strap or kydex? I have one knife that really needs leather because the maker only really does kydex but at least the kydex is functional.

I will admit, I am biased A.F., I have seen many knives I liked and the only reason I didn’t buy the, was the stupid sheath. I just recently bought one the price was good and the sheath reminded me that no price is THAT good

Red
 
I agree with you if the knife has no guard. Either the knife ends up loose or it’s too deep in the sheath. But if your knife has a guard and the pouch sheath is made right with a cam, they can be secure and nice to resheath easily.
 
If they don't fit well, they were made incorrectly. It is true that some knives don't belong in a folded sheath such as a slim dagger. However, most can be secured very well in a pouch with the proper design, pattern and fitting. I have made all types and it really is up to the maker to design and fit it properly. Production products don't always fit well because they are, well, production products. They tend more toward lower cost than proper fit. I have definitely seen some very nice commercial knives with what I consider throwaway sheaths.
Randy
 
I like pouch style sheaths personally, I don't like dealing with snaps, kydex is fine too but a snap sheath is pretty low on preference list personally.
 
I don't think there is anything particularly negative about a simple pouch style sheath. It's only plain if you leave it plain. They can be stamped, carved and painted just like any other sheath. Granted, I wouldn't make one for one of my top-end knives, but I see nothing wrong with one for a small EDC knife.
 
If I'm going leather, I prefer a pouch sheath. Why? Because I hate keeper straps. If I'm being totally honest, I'd rather not have 2/3 - 3/4 of the handle buried, though. I've got a couple of leather sheaths which leave most of the handle accessible, yet are fairly secure; and I like those quite a lot.
 
I love properly made pouch sheath.

Honestly, for me, other styles are a bit easier to get right when I make them.

I've made open back "quick draw" khukri sheaths, blade only pancake (with retention snaps) wood core puko sheaths and pouch sheaths.
 
Yea, I have a few customers that prefer a pouch sheath, with good leather and a well fit they are plenty secure.
Inexpensive ready made "one fits most" pouch sheaths have not helped the reputation of the simple taco sheath.
 
I have three "pouch" sheath designs that I make. My standard Slotted sheath, my Horizontal sheath and a Slot and Loop.

A Slotted sheath. This is my standard/default sheath when you order a knife. The Slotted sheath is worn under the belt. For instance, if you wanted to wear it over your left front pocket for a right hand crossdraw, the belt would come up from the bottom, through the slot and pass over the body of the sheath and then through the next belt loop. This provides added security and allows a wide variety of angle adjustment. This arrangement truly allows the sheath to be worn 360 degrees on the belt.

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Here's a Slotted sheath worn for right hand crossdraw:

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Horizontal sheaths. Designed for crossdraw:

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Our Doc is a lefty and he's working on one of my horses' teeth here.

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A Slot and Loop. its very similar to the Slotted sheath except it has a loop on the back side of the sheath that the belt also passes through. Therefore the Slot and Loop rides on the outside of the belt not under the belt like the Slotted.

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Our friend Mary K was wearing a Slot and Loop during our recent fall works on the ranch, last weekend:

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I made that knife and sheath for her 15-16 years ago and its still going strong.

Slot and Loop behind the hip:

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This quick little video shows retention on such a sheath when built right:

https://www.instagram.com/p/BtKcsUfjAeM/
 
Ok, you guys have given me something to think of, I guess I’ve never had one that held securely. I think I did long ago but donated that knife to an auction 25 years ago. The latest I got left me VERY disatisfied and if not for the comments here I’d honestly never try one again. I literally just gave the knife to my 12yo because she just wants to get into knives and won’t be able to daily carry it so won’t know better.

I’m a big fan of crossdraw and more horizontal. In fact the holster I wear 90% of the time I carry can be worn 360 and allows variable can’t. I love it.

I appreciate you all educating me and more for keeping me from writing things off the table so quickly. Now, how do I know it’s made right and what does it mean “made with a cam” can it be made for bigger handls like mine where it lets more fingers on, at least a solid pinky wrap before drawing?

Red
 
BTW...I am also a cross-draw fan...

what does it mean “made with a cam”
If you look at Horsewright's pics, especially the first pic in post #11, you see that most fixed blades are produced with a design that
has a severe drop just behind the blade...at the leading edge of the grip. You can see by the stitching on Dave Ferry's sheaths that there is a "drop" also planning in the sheath. So, when you insert your knife, it goes in just so far until it reaches the end of the blade and then "drops" into a "locked" situation.
Camming it out is the process of "lifting the handle a bit as you withdraw the knife, in order to cam the back of that blade OUT OF THAT stiiched recess and then out of the sheath. With a good sheath, as you insert a knife, you can actually feel the blade "drop" in to that area that locks it in.
So, as Dave Ferry shows in his video, you can take a sheathed knife and shake it vigorously upside down and still the blade remains firmly locked in the sheath. Believe me, I am a fan and user of Dave's knives, sheaths and belts, and he takes a back-seat to no one, IMO.
 
Sonnydaze said:
BTW...I am also a cross-draw fan...

what does it mean “made with a cam”
If you look at Horsewright's pics, especially the first pic in post #11, you see that most fixed blades are produced with a design that
has a severe drop just behind the blade...at the leading edge of the grip. You can see by the stitching on Dave Ferry's sheaths that there is a "drop" also planning in the sheath. So, when you insert your knife, it goes in just so far until it reaches the end of the blade and then "drops" into a "locked" situation.
Camming it out is the process of "lifting the handle a bit as you withdraw the knife, in order to cam the back of that blade OUT OF THAT stiiched recess and then out of the sheath. With a good sheath, as you insert a knife, you can actually feel the blade "drop" in to that area that locks it in.
So, as Dave Ferry shows in his video, you can take a sheathed knife and shake it vigorously upside down and still the blade remains firmly locked in the sheath. Believe me, I am a fan and user of Dave's knives, sheaths and belts, and he takes a back-seat to no one, IMO.
Click to expand...

Yep exactly. Bob Loveless to my knowledge actually came up with the idea. Its often referred to as a Loveless welt or Loveless cam. Thank you for the kind words.
 
A cam refers to the sheath welt having a area that sticks out a little further ," cam lobe" to provide a little tension before the knife guard drops into the notch you have in the welt for the guard. So you have tension and a stop, you will get a click when the knife inserts.
 
I'm sorta split on this one. I like pouch sleeves for some small and medium size knives but I prefer a strap and button for larger knives, anything over 5" blade. I personally would rather undo a strap and slide out a larger knife easily rather than have to give it a hard tug to pull it out.
 
I really don't have a preference. I guess it just depends on the knife and circumstances. I see no reason not to have multiple types of sheaths for the same knife. You may want to carry it in a different way at different times.
 
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