Don't use old epoxy, and my evaluation of AcraGlas

The kits are available locally here through Wholesale Sports, and I think that if I did a bit of searching I could find it though a gun dealer locally too.
 
It is much cheaper to buy in bulk from Brownell's. I use it on hidden tangs using stag because it doesn't shrink like other epoxy.I've had nothing but good experience using it.
 
I remember reading about Acraglas in the NRA magazine over 30 years ago. You'd think after all that time, there'd be something better by now.

Time for me to order some, since I have a Marlin 1985G cracked stock that I need to fix.
 
If you want a little faster set you can heat it to 130 to 150 degrees. at this temp it pours like syrup and sets in a couple of hours.
 
Magnussen said:
Have you had any experience with West Systems epoxy, Nathan? I have some that is about 2 years old... your testing intrigues me....... can you tell us a bit about the testing process?

Rick
Click to expand...

I've been using West Systems for various woodworking projects where I needed a lot of open time and for laminating things like homemade longboard skateboard decks as well as a handful (pun intended) of knife handles and scales. I haven't had any failures (it has always set up) even thought it was a couple years old like yours.

It will turn reddish brown, but I've been told by two separate sources that it's normal and that it doesn't affect the strength of the epoxy. One was a woodworker and another a boatbuilder.

This is all said with a grain of salt since I really haven't tested these projects extensively, but I do know that the skateboard decks have been going strong under some rough conditions.
 
I just did a quick google search and found that the epoxy turning red was listed in West System's FAQ.

http://www.westsystem.com/ss/problem-solving/#hardener-red

Here's their quote:

PROBLEM: Hardener has turned red after several years storage.
POSSIBLE CAUSES & SOLUTIONS:

Moisture in contact with hardener and metal container.

Red color is a normal condition. It will not affect epoxy handling or cured strength. Avoid using for clear coating or exposed areas where color is not desired.

They've got a stellar reputation in boat building circles so I kind of believe the hype. I figure that I would have heard horror stories of boats delaminating and people perishing if it weren't true.

Besides, if it's on the internet, it's gotta be true!;)
 
I started using Acra glas about 20 yrs ago. The bulk batch I have now is over 5 years old and still sets up hard as glass. I just use my powder scale and mix at 4-1 by weight. While this is not exactly as specs, it is very close (0.25 to Nathan's 0.263). Up to 50 or 60 grains, most people probably cannot measure closer. Brownells specifies volume of 4-1. The weight measurements are so close that I cannot detect a difference in performance. With very small amounts, like for the final pin glueing, I do use syringes. Since my wife takes allergy shots, I have hundreds of them.
Even my old Acra glas sets up in 24 hours(less if you keep it under a light). I have used it on numerous knives without failure, and have bedded or repaired many gunstocks with no problems or long term failures.
Brownells has done a lot of testing on this. In their books "Gunkinks" there are many articles written by them and by gunsmiths attesting to the strength of the wood to metal bond. Other than heating up to over 300F, failures to bond are extremely rare if the surfaces are clean and roughed up.
The one tip I have for anyone using it is to mix the 2 parts for at least 3 minutes prior to applying. This insures adequate mixing. Adding extra hardener results in a mixture that does not set up well or at all.
Sorry for the long post, but if you are looking for a really strong epoxy, just invest the money and you will never be sorry for having quality.
Chip Kunkle
 
Kunklec, that's the other thing I forgot to mention: I have all (or most) of the Brownell's "Gunkinks" books and the positive reviews and test data on Acraglas is obvious and well documented.

I *think* I remember reading that Brownell's started by advertising Acraglas in the NRA mag back in the '50's or so - anyone know if that's correct?
 
Acraglas is a Brownells product and you wont find it cheaper anywhere else. As far as the Brownells discount all you have to do when they ask is it personal or professional use tell them it is for professional use and tell them you are a knifemaker and you will get the discount. It works for me. I haven't calculated it but I'd say it is a 25-30 % discount.
 
Charlie and I did some pretty extensive, but not necessarily scientific, test about 8 years ago and found that Acraglas was the best adhesive we could find for the knives we were making. Charlie was pretty sure it was going to come out on top since he had used it as a gunsmith for years, but he had to convince me since there was newer stuff on the market. It works great.

For mixing smaller batches we found that the basting injector syringes work great. We break off the needle to a convenient length, mark a scale on the side and fill it with the bulk containers from Brownell’s. Just squirt out the right amount according to the marks and it never fails. Fill them back up when they get low. They come with these little caps that cover the "needle" and keeps from making a mess. For smaller amounts a smaller syringe might work even better. I'll have to try it.

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Id like to get some of the acraglas to try,but after too many epoxy failures ive gone to Speedbonder and like it quite well.Especially the fast cure.Im sure there is a downside to it,but i dont know what it is.
 
First, if I don't have a way to accurately measure epoxy, whether it's Brownell's or JB Weld, I try to err on the side of too little hardener. It will take a little longer to set up, but always bonds well. Too much hardener and you might as well use Elmer's.

And, another vote for Acraglas. I used it last Halloween to repair a denture top plate that my dentist had given up on. It kept splitting down the center, front to back. I cleaned them up and glued them up, then when I was gluing in the replacement teeth (carved from bone) I poured a layer of about .05 in the "cup" of the palate to reinforce it. They've stayed together just fine since then.

I don't wear them that often, but when I do the replacement teeth take a lot of knocking around. The sockets are very shallow, so there's not much surface contact, but the epoxy job has been rock solid.

You can probably tell which teeth I replaced:

Teeth.jpg
 
Magnussen said:
Have you had any experience with West Systems epoxy, Nathan? I have some that is about 2 years old... your testing intrigues me....... can you tell us a bit about the testing process?

Rick
Click to expand...

I've recently had a bad experience with West Marine systems epoxies, and I will never buy from them again. Their explanation was that there was a possibility the cans had frozen during transport. I asked if they had any they were sure hadn't frozen? chirp chirp.

Oh well.
 
How does Arcaglas hold up in the diswasher test? Not that I'd put a knife through the diswasher, but one of my unknowing customers did and the epoxy failed.
 
If its to then for you guys try the gell.I have used it for around 15 years and it stays where youput it. J<D<
 
When I purchased my first order of Acra Glass, I called Brownells, Bob Brownell answered the phone himself! This was in the early 60's. I had read about his tests and product in The Rifleman, stock makers were claiming the Acra Glass would not take the place of craftsmanship. Bob offered a challenge, a maker could inlet a stock for an action using a 458 cartridge, they would meet and shoot the rifles, one done Bob's way with Acra Glass and the other carefully inletted, until one of them cratered. To my knowledge no maker accepted the challenge.

I asked Bob why his was better than other glass bedding sources, he told me he was an organic chemist and had come up with a way to mix the chemicals that go into Acra Glass that took full advantage of their potential. Time, temperature and mixing methods all come into play.

I have used it exclusively for over 50 years and am a believer in his product.

I use medical plastic syringes to mix my resin and hardener, 3cc for the hardener and 5cc syringe for the resin. The working time allows it to permeate into the materials you wish to bond.

Excellent report Nathan, Thanks for doing your homework!
 
The more I learn about various epoxies and how picky they can be about setting up just right, the more I like Corby bolts.

Having said that, I really do appreciate all the testing you gentlemen do, and the way you freely share your findings. Thank you!
 
I have found nothing better than Acra Glass. Mixing it isn't a great ordeal. It's a 1:4 ratio. Simply use the drop system. I have heard several warnings about trying to speed it up with additional hardener. These I heed. But there is a reasonable margin of error that can easily be dealt with., especially when deeling in larger amounts. Laboratory standards of measurement are not required

By the drop system, I mean one drop of hardener added directly two four drops of resin; ten drops of hardener added to forty drops of resin, etc. The hardener is a little thicker so just take that into account and eyeball it. With eighty drops of resin, you would add 20 drops of hardener, but 18, 19, 21, or 22 isn't going to make a wit of difference. Using a hammer, I've smacked plastic cups that had 1/4 " built up inside. Pretty impressive stuff to be sure. I also have it in knives that I've used for years in the Amazon Rainforest, and 12 years later they're tight as a tick.

Cheers,

TV

Terry Vandeventer
ABS MS
 
Guys I was just looking at this stuff and was about to call in my order but wanted to check with you guys first. Looks like they sell a 4oz and 16oz kit. How much of this do you generally use when doing a set of scales or hidden tang?

ATM I'm only turning out a knife every so often as free time permits. I know it has a long shelf life but I'm trying to figure out if the 16 will be overkill or the 4 won't be enough. Any help is appreciated.
 
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