Edible rust prevention oil for your knife?

[Obsessed with Edges]

Windex to clean the blade huh? I'll use it, I bought a Costco size pretty much got a lifetime supply. I don't have that many windows to clean and I use other degreasers for other apps. Thanks for the tip.

:thumbup:
I've refilled my bottle a time or two, with the Costco-sourced jug we have in-house (think we have two of those, in fact). The more I use the stuff, the more uses I find for it. Occasionally, I've even 'washed' my dishes with it, when I'm feeling a little lazy at times.


David

 

[cool hand luke]

this is a timely thread for me. I've always used mineral oil as well, but I've been reading more about mustard petina applications. How much does applying a petina help with corrosion resistance on say...O1 steel (of which I have a few).

 

[ThePerpetualNovice]

To chime in on the mineral oil suggestion, I'd also like to add that the pharmacy mineral oil is usually considerably cheaper than the Norton honing mineral oil you find at the hardware store. I've taken to using it when sharpening on oilstones, as well. Does anyone know of any reason why this might be a mistake?

this is a timely thread for me. I've always used mineral oil as well, but I've been reading more about mustard petina applications. How much does applying a petina help with corrosion resistance on say...O1 steel (of which I have a few).

Based on my admittedly limited experience, forced petinas seem to offer marginal corrosion resistence.

 

[Obsessed with Edges]

To chime in on the mineral oil suggestion, I'd also like to add that the pharmacy mineral oil is usually considerably cheaper than the Norton honing mineral oil you find at the hardware store. I've taken to using it when sharpening on oilstones, as well. Does anyone know of any reason why this might be a mistake?



Based on my admittedly limited experience, forced petinas seem to offer marginal corrosion resistence.

For sharpening's sake, mineral oil is mineral oil. Some 'brands' of the honing oils may be thinner than others, and that can provide some difference in 'feel' on the stones. But there's really not much justification for the price increase seen in the dedicated honing oil. The makers of the sharpening tools supplied with oil make it conveniently available, and I'm sure that's most of what extra $$ you're paying for it.

As far as patina helping to protect against corrosion (rust), this is what I'd posted about my perception of patina protecting a 1095 blade, in another thread. Easier to cut & paste it here:

( from this thread -->: http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/1033692-Forced-patina-question-(New-pics-added) )

I view a forced patina as just a 'head start under controlled conditions' patina. In other words, making the steel oxidize NOW, while I'm watching and can maintain some control over it, before it happens accidentally (rust) LATER, when I'm not paying attention. I've used my 8OT to fiddle with patina, and have noticed that the subsequent patinas resist the rusting which occurs the first time around. I scared myself the first time, when doing it to the essentially 'clean' blade; it rusted a LOT. I gave it a heavy scrub with baking soda to remove & stop the rusting. On subsequent sessions, the areas with existing patina didn't rust anymore, only turning darker or more even, with only the fringes (un-patinaed) showing some red. That was an eye-opener, and proved to me that the patina does actually help protect the steel.

David

 

[cool hand luke]

thanks Obsessed. That's helpful info.

 

[salmonkiller]

I use Froglube which is a bio-based cleaner-lubricant-protectant made from ‘food-grade’
ingredients using all USA produced ingredients..