elk handle Buck 110

gorlank

gorlank

Joined
Jan 26, 2003
Messages
237
Hello,

I think I have a caught a case of Buck fever, I have a burl handle commemorative 110 on the way and I am shopping for a nice 110 with the elh horn handle. Does anyone own one? Looking for some info on fit and finish of the production elk handle model. Just wondering if I would be better off with the elk handle or looking for an older stag handle one. Thanks all.

Dave
 
I purchased a Brown Elk Horn 110FG with nickel silver bolsters & blade of mirror polished 420HC from PCKS at the Buck site. Very pleased with the fit & finish! No rivets; so I'm hoping for the long haul, I won't have to worry about the horn 'cracking'.
 
Originally posted by gorlank
Hello,

I think I have a caught a case of Buck fever....
Click to expand...
I LOVE the smell of BUCK FEVER !!!!!

Weclome to the Forums and to the Buck Family.... I think you'll find yourself right at home here. Lots of great people, tons of good info, and a few laughs and chuckles for good measure!!!

If you're serious about BUCK FEVER, you might want to consider joing the Buck Collector's Club. Look for a thread in the Forum titled Buck Collector's Club or email me for some more info.....

Glad to have you here!!!! :) ;)
 
>"No rivets; so I'm hoping for the long haul, I won't have to worry about the horn 'cracking'."

================================

So having no rivets makes for a more durable handle? I would have thought the opposite. My (uneducated) impression was that having no rivets makes for a better-looking knife in the opinion of collectors, but having the rivets makes for a more sturdy user over the long haul (no epoxy to work loose).

I'm not stating this as fact, I'm actually quite curious to hear folks' views on this. Thanks!
 
My general impression of rivets in bone or antler is that rivets make the material susceptible to chipping around the rivets themselves.

This is from someone who knows next to nothing (me) about knives, but I’m learnin fast. ;)

Verax
 
gorlank, that burl handle is fantastic! Congratulations! Yep! I think you have caught the fever of the Buck 110! :D My fever is still raging;) & aspirin doesn't help!

mnblade - I wouldn't say that no rivets makes for a more durable handle. If I wanted a real durable handle I'd try something like a micarta, bakelite or G10 handle with rivets or pins. I'm mainly a collector & have my few users that get me through the day. In my opinion, stag, horn, ivory & bone have a greater tendency to undergo changes in various conditions like humidity & temperature fluctuations than the manmade materials. I'd rather they could 'shrink' or 'swell' rather than be 'pinned' or riveted in place & have a chance of cracking or chipping. As of yet, I haven't had an epoxied stag handle scale 'fall off' although I'm sure it could happen. I have also heard of some stag 'riveted' handles 'shrinking' enough to slightly expose the end of the rivet enough that you could feel the ends when you gripped the knife. I'm sure using stabilized stag, horn, etc. helps a great deal in keeping the effects of humidity & temperature to a minimum. Hope we hear from some real experts on this subject in case I'm all wet with my opinions. :)
 
Been considering a PCKS 110 with stag scales and WITH rivets. I figured since so many slipjoint makers use rivets on stag, it shouldn't be a problem.

I too would like to hear more about this matter.

Anybody from Buck want to chime in?
 
On stag style inlays (M.O.P. too), I believe the inlay is glued on whether or not you order it with rivets. So the rivets are somewhat ornamental. Wood handles however rely on the rivets for holding.


Jeff
 
I have owned three stag handled folders (european stag) all with pinned handles.

One of them had belonged to my grandmother who used it daily in an orange orchard, probably for about ten years, when she gave it to me the blade was loose and pitted despite bening stainless and one liner was bent, there were no cracks on the stag but it had shrunk lengthwise leaving a gap between the slabs and the bolsters.

Another one (Puma prince) is about 30 years old now, has not seen heavy use but was my brother´s EDC for a few years before I talk him out of it, about every year or so I rub some mineral oil on it, hasn´t shrunk at all but has a center pin crack on one side.

The third one is a Boker folding hunter thas has never been used, close to 30 years old, still in perfect condition with only a yearly rub of oil.

I also have two fixed blades.

A Puma hunter´s pal probably from the late 70´s, that I´ve used a few times when light camping (more like pic-nics) and sometimes use in the kitchen, stag handle is perfect.

A Boker game warden style also late 70´s had a crack about one inch long when new which I filled with crazy glue, I don´t use it much, seems to be the same as when I got it.

This made me realize, most of my good knives are from the mid to late 70´s, that´s cause I graduated in 73, got my first good job in 74, got married in 78, had about 4 or 5 years with some spare cash.
 
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