Embarresing Newbie Blunder

C

Chris 54326

Joined
Sep 13, 2017
Messages
257
Okay, it's my first sheath. Did exactly what I'd been warned not to do in so many Youtube videos. I marked the back of my sheath backwards............but to make matters worse, I did it with a ballpoint pen. Luckily I didn't cut it out. But now I've got ballpoint pen ink on the top side of my leather. I've tried to remove it using Lacquer Thinner, Mineral Spirits, Acetone, Denatured Alcohol and Zylene...................all to no avail. If you know how to remove the ink, I'd appreciate knowing. For now, the decision is to go ahead and tool the back and dye it a dark enough Brown to cover up my mistake................and then dye the front of the sheath a lighter brown.
 
Don't know how to remove it, but for future lay out I suggest using a red ball point pen. it is much easier to cover with even light brown dyes. rtmind/randy
 
I use a pencil for lay out. It erases. Certain chap leathers I will use a specialized "silver pen" that many leather suppliers carry. This erases with a damp paper towel. But on veg tan leather I use a pencil.
 
I am in Dave's camp. I always use a pencil and make the marks as light as possible. Mistakes will happen. Part of the learning process. Unfortunately, I never seem to stop learning some days.:(
Randy
 
I can't get a pencil to do more than indent the leather............and that doesn't stay long enough to be seen as a cutting guide. Guess I'm using the wrong # lead in my drafting pencil. I'm going to get one of Tandy's pens. I've had several people mention them.

Thanks for the comments. Loads to learn, to say the least.
 
Just a regular #2:

xkoimMP.jpg
 
Dave, I can see a few "pieces" of line on the leather.............and see the pencil in the picture, so I'm assuming you are showing me how well pencil shows up. But I can't really see anything on that leather I could follow with a knife. Guess it's my eyes. Even tried to open and modify the image in PhotoShop and couldn't see it.
 
Chris 54326 said:
Dave, I can see a few "pieces" of line on the leather.............and see the pencil in the picture, so I'm assuming you are showing me how well pencil shows up. But I can't really see anything on that leather I could follow with a knife. Guess it's my eyes. Even tried to open and modify the image in PhotoShop and couldn't see it.
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Maybe so cause I can see the three pancake holsters on that piece. Even under that glaring fluorescent light. But I do wear reading glasses. Another thought is to dampen the leather and use a stylus to outline your project.
 
It can be difficult to see if the light is wrong. I have lights everywhere on my cutting bench and have no trouble seeing the lines to cut with my 70 year old eyes. Typically, lights directly overhead are not as good as ones coming in from multiple sides, at least for me.
Randy
 
Well, I'm 75 years old, but I've had cataract surgeries in both eyes and just got new tri-focal prescription glasses last month..........but I sure don't see any pancake holsters in that picture. (not saying they aren't there........just that I can't see them.) Oh well. I'll get there somehow.

Thanks for trying to help.
 
Okay, here's where I am on my first sheath build. Need to dye it, sew the loop and then glue the back to the front.........drill the holes and sew. I'm fully aware it's not perfect. It's my first sheath and it's for me so I'm definitely not going to ask for a refund. :D The spotting on the leather is from water and not a stain. I was doing some touch-up just before I shot the picture.

p4021992461-4.jpg
 
Chris, that is very nice work. I rarely tool the back of a sheath, but it really looks nice. Would recommend using the same camouflage/border on both sides for symmetry. would love to see more when it is finished. rtmind/randy
 
Chris, ya can even out the spotting by dampening the whole sheath, then let it dry. How are you protecting the blade from the rivet/screw of the sam browne stud? Excellent tooling! Did ya have to readjust the height of the front piece?

000Robert said:
That is some nice looking leather.

I use a leather pen.
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Thanks. Thats Wicket and Craig 8/10 oz russet saddle leather. Its what I use for holsters, all carved sheaths, tooled belts, rifle scabbards, martingale/breast collars etc. We use a lot of it. I have found those silver pens to not erase as reliably as they should and under my shop lighting conditions generally harder to see then a pencil. There are certain leathers that just don't take the pencil well though and then I do use the silver pen. But they are few and far between.
 
Horsewright said:
Thanks. Thats Wicket and Craig 8/10 oz russet saddle leather. Its what I use for holsters, all carved sheaths, tooled belts, rifle scabbards, martingale/breast collars etc. We use a lot of it. I have found those silver pens to not erase as reliably as they should and under my shop lighting conditions generally harder to see then a pencil. There are certain leathers that just don't take the pencil well though and then I do use the silver pen. But they are few and far between.
Click to expand...

I don't see any of that kind on their website. They must be out of it.

I have never tried a pencil.
 
I'm aware, for symmetry, that the camouflage stamp should have been the same both front and back. I knew that but intentionally used a different one...........because I could and because this sheath is for personal use. Wish I'd used the stamp on the front that I did on the back. Like it a whole lot better. But thanks for mentioning it. As a newbie, I need all the tips I can get. :D

I skived a piece of Veg-tan down.........way down in thickness..........to cover the back of the loop stud. Actually, I adjusted the height of the front piece quite a bit because the back piece is only one layer of shoulder and I had to make room for the guard of the knife so it wouldn't rub the hanging loop. I've never noticed sheaths stacked up as high as this one will be, but I don't see any other way when dealing with a guard. This is the only knife I've ever owned with a guard like this. The knives I make don't have guards, usually...............just bolsters, so nothing protruding out the back to cause a clearance problem.

I just dyed my leather with Fiebing's Pro Saddle Tan. Of their antiques, what would be a good color to use?
 
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