Recommendation? Engravograph Help

G

gudspelr

Joined
Jul 1, 2013
Messages
451
It looks like I’ll be coming into a New Hermes Engravograph, which I’m fairly excited about. From what I can tell, it’s basically a motorized pantograph that you can use with various “bits”(?). Unfortunately, it doesn’t look like I’m going to be getting any pieces with the tool itself. So, no lettering, bits, etc.

I’ve done some googling, reading, and YouTube watching and part of my challenge is I don’t know he exact model number yet. I’m hoping that’ll help me figure out what I can/should get for tooling. I’ve seen catalogs that list 3 different sized bits (the shank, I think) and I don’t know what I want. Also, they come in carbide, diamond, and HSS. Does anyone have some experience with these that might be able to give some advice?

I’d like to be able to use it for making inlay pockets and stuff on folders. I’ve seen commercial type templates you can buy that would be cool, as well (i.e. USMC logo and the like). What other uses do you guys find for them? Which type of bits should I get for the application I’m looking at. I saw some diamond ones on the auction site but for a set it was like $200. Need a whole set like that?

Jeremy
 
I have 3 New Hermes machines.
You can not successfully use the rotary engraving function on metal- just natural materials and plastics.
The diamond drag bits are for engraving metal. They are not used with the rotary function.
You will need carbide rotary bits. Shank size depends on the machine.
You will have to make (or have made) templates for each style inlay or function. The machines only work off templates.
Let me know how I can help.
 
Bill DeShivs said:
I have 3 New Hermes machines.
You can not successfully use the rotary engraving function on metal- just natural materials and plastics.
The diamond drag bits are for engraving metal. They are not used with the rotary function.
You will need carbide rotary bits. Shank size depends on the machine.
You will have to make (or have made) templates for each style inlay or function. The machines only work off templates.
Let me know how I can help.
Click to expand...

Thanks VERY much for all the information. I didn’t realized metal couldn’t be engraved, so that’s really good to know. I’d like to be able to carve it for inlays in handle material and such, so that ought to work out fine with the various woods and synthetics. Also, I suppose the ability to put a maker’s mark/otherwise mark metal would be good. Will the carbide bit you suggested work for that, or should I go for a carbide one for the motorized job and a diamond one for marking metal?

Thanks so much for helping me out with this. I could see some good possibilities with the machine, just never been able to see one used in person...

Jeremy
 
Carbide for rotary engraving on softer materials. Diamond drag for metal engraving.
Once you get the machine, I can advise what parts/where to get. There is much aftermarket stuff available that is relatively inexpensive.
 
While commercial manual pantograph engraving has mostly been supplanted by computerized and/or laser engraving, the New Hermes machines are still very useful for the individual craftsman or knifemaker. You can use them to mark your work and personalize projects for customers. Prices are dropping like crazy, and most Ebay sellers don't have a clue what they have.
 
Bill DeShivs said:
Carbide for rotary engraving on softer materials. Diamond drag for metal engraving.
Once you get the machine, I can advise what parts/where to get. There is much aftermarket stuff available that is relatively inexpensive.
Click to expand...

Thanks so much, Bill. I just picked it up today but haven’t gotten the chance to check it out really closely yet. Although, it appears there’s a bit in it that the guy didn’t realize was in there. Figure I’ll take it out and measure the shank and I should know what size to get. Also want to try and find the model number. I’d greatly appreciate bending your ear sometime about the use and anything else you think would be helpful. I’m pretty excited to have it.

Jeremy
 
There should be a tag on the base with model and serial number.
Post a close up of the engraving stylus part.
 
Bill DeShivs said:
There should be a tag on the base with model and serial number.
Post a close up of the engraving stylus part.
Click to expand...

Okay, hopefully this will all work... I couldn't get the engraving bit out. I think it has a set screw up top by the little pulley collar, but none of the allen wrenches I have (metric or imperial) seem to fit it. I unscrewed the collar at the bottom by the tip and took two pictures of the bit to hopefully show the profile of it.

YqSc3dM.jpg



tx8EFhW.jpg



6yoZby2.jpg



S1vo1S7.jpg




Jeremy
 
It's a GM model- the most common.
The stylus (bit) unscrews by the collar on top. Some turn clockwise, some turn counterclockwise. It's carbide, and is used for rotary engraving (routing).
The bottom collar that you unscrewed is used for setting depth of cut.
Go online and find a manual. If you can't find one, I can email it to you.
 
On that model the stylus unscrews clockwise, because it is rotating. Just grab the knurled ring and turn it. The set screw is for changing the stylus in the knurled nut.

Just remove the power belt and motor arm, you won't be using them. Get a diamond stylus ( there may be one in the box of stuff that came with it) and change the rotary cutter for the diamond stylus. Ebay sells inexpensive styli.

Fonts are where you spend you money. Keep an eye on ebay and such for a font of standard block lettering .

You may have to change the font tray for one that takes a single line of 1" type. That unit is set up for signs and name tags and looks like the tray is for 2" type.
Measure the size of one of those type slides for us.
 
You guys were right-turned the knurled knob clock wise and it unscrewed with the 1/8" engraving bit. Will have to fiddle some more with that set screw. I wonder if the previous owner might have over tightened or something and stripped it out a bit... I think I found a manual for it online, but not entirely certain it's the exact one-it's for multiple models. The pictures I've seen so far in it look just like the one I have. I measured the tray; there are two rows for lettering to slide into and best I can tell, they're about 1 3/16" wide. I'm guessing that's standard for the 1" lettering with extra on top and bottom to slide in? The guy that I got the engravograph from got a hold of me and said another guy contacted him and let him know he had some lettering/numbers and stuff. I sent him an e-mail and will see what he has and how much any of it might be. I guess it'll also depend on the particular font and such.

Stacey-
I figured I'd be able to use this as a pantograph (without the motor going) but realized I might be assuming incorrectly on something else... I had in my head that with the right engraving bit, I could use it with the motor to basically route out a recess for inlays in different handle materials. Is that something that would work?


Jeremy
 
Your machine uses standard size type. You should be able to slide the center piece of the copy table out-allowing it to use large type.

You can use the machine to rout handle materials. You need to have a master template for each shape you want to rout. The machine can not be used "free hand," unless you have 3 hands.

You also need to be able to hold your work in the vise. There are different vise jaws available, too.
 
Thanks, Bill. I’ve been perusing for different templates online. There’s some neat stuff out there. It would be kind of cool to be able to make some masters in various shapes for inlays. Will have to do some more research.

For routing out handle materials, is the bit I currently have a good option? The angle going to the point makes me feel like I’d have to go a ways deeper to ensure straight walls for an inlay. I hope that makes sense. Do you have some suggestions on a few different bits for that along with a specific diamond one for dragging/marking?

Jeremy
 
The bits are like router bits. They cut in the shape of the tip. They are designed for cutting through multi-layer plastic, to show the colors of each layer in the cut. Think desk nameplates or door plates in an office.

For routing inlay holes, the best way is to make a template for the design. Cut the edges with the machine, and remove the center by hand. The machine uses templates only and cuts lines, not gross amounts. It will not cut out the center of your design, like a parser will. You could cut some lines into the template in the center, to make stock removal easier.

You can make templates with the machine. For example-if I didn't want to install all the letters of my name each time I wanted to engrave it, I could cut a template from the type into plastic and use the template from now on. Realize that the machine will not cut 1:1 ratio. The best it can do is 1:2-that's what those markings mean. If set at "2" your template would come out at 1/2 the size of the original lettering. When using the template, the largest I could engrave "Bill DeShivs" would be 1/2 the size if the template. Of course, you can engrave smaller-up to 1:7 ratio (1:6 on some machines)
 
Bill DeShivs said:
Carbide for rotary engraving on softer materials. Diamond drag for metal engraving.
Once you get the machine, I can advise what parts/where to get. There is much aftermarket stuff available that is relatively inexpensive.
Click to expand...
Hi Bill, Ive been reading the new Hermes discussion. Are you still dealing with them?
 
I was reading the thread from 2000. Its was costing too much running back and forth to the jeweler to have engraving done on knife blades so I have just purchased an engravograph IL . This one is motorized.I was hoping that it may be a deeper cut on tempered 1095 but after reading your earlier comments , I may need only the diamond stylus. Is there still an outlet for parts for these machines?
Two sets of lettering came with this machine but no extra stylus parts or cutting bits.
I only got the flat jaws with the machine and I need something a little taller so I'm having some 3/8" taller jaw parts made for the vise.
Thanks in advance for any direction on this thing.
 
Many parts are available on Ebay. Gravograph may still sell parts.
 
Welcome Asm.
The IL series is a flat table model and does not have the feature to raise the post, so you can't adjust the engraving height. Not a problem for knives, but as you said you may have to make different jaws.

An inexpensive Chinese stylus can be bought on eBay and other places. Decide the tip angle you need. 90° is a good average for steel. Get two, because you will likely chip one in learning to engrave hard steel.

You don't want to use the rotary quill, just the diamond point stylus.

Practice on a bunch of scrap until you get the hang of it. It is pretty simple, but mistakes are irreversible.

Fill out your profile so we know where you live. Someone may have a box of accessories he would give you if you were near him.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top