Evenheat Kiln -heat treating frustrations- HELP!!!

I have the same size evenheat as well, I take mine up to 1650 unloaded an hold it for a while, then open it up and put the knife in a start the program. I had remembered reading about the problem of temperature spikes while it was heating up from a while back.
 
I have the same size evenheat as well, I take mine up to 1650 unloaded an hold it for a while, then open it up and put the knife in a start the program. I had remembered reading about the problem of temperature spikes while it was heating up from a while back.

Based on my research 01 requires slow heating. Somewhere in the range of no faster than 400 degrees an hour. So I set the ramp controller to just that now to prevent the spike in temp, and control the rate of heating to the preheat stage and to the critical temp set point. On the last two batches I've done I also noticed much much much improved dimensional stability.
 
Evenheat's KH418 knife oven has dimensions 6.5" W x 4.25" H x 18" D. It's the 120 volt model. I assume this is the one?

Just ordered one.... Really hoping those dimensions don't place my knives too close to the coils! Would be a bummer, since they market this one specifically to knife makers.

Yup, this is the one I have. It does great! If you didn't get it with the ramp master, call them and change your order to get it. Well worth the extra cheese and it makes a big difference. Like I said above, controlling the degrees per hour ramp speed allows you to prevent over heating. The steel manufacturers recommend slow heating anyway.
 
I don't think the Evenheat always does so great with perfectly even heat, but I think I have a work-around.

I've been pampered with a good industrial heat treat oven from my tool and die work that would have been hard to justify making a few knives. But it's too short for longer pieces so I use an Evenheat for long stuff. The Evenheat has more heat loss because of thin insulation and they also have exposed coils. Due to the heat loss, the coils are on a lot. And due to the exposed coils there is more undiffused IR heat. I think these two things, plus the coils on the back but not in the door can lead to differences in the temperature of your work piece along its length. A 25 degree difference during soak is a problem.

If it were glass or pottery and you were using a very slow ramp up, it would probably be moot. But for knives we want to get to temp quickly and this exacerbates the problem.

My work around for this problem is to soak the oven empty at 100-150 degrees hotter than you plan to soak your knife. Let it soak a while and build up some heat throughout the thickness of the firebrick. Then turn it off and stick your knife in cold and close the door. Turn it back on and set the next program which is the soak temp you want and a 500/hr ramp rate. With a bit of practice I have it where it's within a few degrees of my target temp when it starts to reheat so there is very little ramp time with the coils blazing for extended period. This reduces excessive heat accumulation in spots. With the knife itself cold there is little risk overheating a spot while the oven sorts itself out.

The other thing I do is an extra layer of loose stainless foil around the normal foil pack. This shields some of the IR. I roll the edges and break it into an E shape so it doesn't distort a lot. The shield can be used again and again.

Try not to put anything closer to a coil than necessary.

I agree with much of what you are saying, but not the reaching temp quickly part. Also, for 01 I'm not using a foil wrap. I use the anti-scale coating from Brownells with pretty good results.
 
The steel manufacturers recommend slow heating anyway.

I don't think anyone recommends getting to temp slowly in something like a blade because there are temperatures between your presoak temp and your austenitizing temp that are not good to dwell at. You want to get to temp as quickly as possible without overheating spots. This is one reason why molten salt works so well.

People dealing with large tool and die type work have to compromise because of other issues that don't apply to us. So there are things they do that we don't.

Best practice, with ovens like this, is to preheat in one oven then charge the work directly into the hardening oven already at full temp. Due to the fact that knives are relatively thin and (compared to a stamping die) uniform, the issues of distortion and uneven soak time are largely moot in a knife and the presoak can be skipped altogether. It's a good practice to preheat, but if you only have one oven, and your work piece is a knife blade, it's probably better to skip it. Particularly in the oven we're discussing.

I suggest preheating the oven hotter than you intend to use it before putting the work in because this particular oven has exposed coils that are inches away from your work, so time spent getting back up to temp will overheat areas of your knife. This isn't theory, I discovered this problem with my own EH oven through testing and developed this work around to avoid the problem.
 
I don't think anyone recommends getting to temp slowly in something like a blade because there are temperatures between your presoak temp and your austenitizing temp that are not good to dwell at. You want to get to temp as quickly as possible without overheating spots. This is one reason why molten salt works so well.

People dealing with large tool and die type work have to compromise because of other issues that don't apply to us. So there are things they do that we don't.

Best practice, with ovens like this, is to preheat in one oven then charge the work directly into the hardening oven already at full temp. Due to the fact that knives are relatively thin and (compared to a stamping die) uniform, the issues of distortion and uneven soak time are largely moot in a knife and the presoak can be skipped altogether. It's a good practice to preheat, but if you only have one oven, and your work piece is a knife blade, it's probably better to skip it. Particularly in the oven we're discussing.

I suggest preheating the oven hotter than you intend to use it before putting the work in because this particular oven has exposed coils that are inches away from your work, so time spent getting back up to temp will overheat areas of your knife. This isn't theory, I discovered this problem with my own EH oven through testing and developed this work around to avoid the problem.

Pretty well explained right there. I will give it a shot on the next couple batches and see how it works out. Do you have any recommendations for the tempering process being limited to one oven as far as time to let it cool? Any issues there not tempering immediately? Recommend bringing to sub zero as part of quench?
 
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