F. Dick German made Sharpening Steels?

[Old-School]

I would want to see how a modern steel, prepared in the same way compares to the restored vintage steel. Maybe that includes allowing the steel to corrode (and pit) for some time before restoring it.

Given that most aren't the size of the older ones, if you left them to the elements for a few decades then attempted a restoration, they'd be like toothpicks by the time you were done hahaha.... you could use them as BBQ skewers. My old pre-war 14's still weigh over half a kilo. It doubles as a steel and a baseball bat.

 

[stitchawl]

Funny how slicks have been produced for hundreds of years but I guess no one uses them.

The problem is that some people just don't recognize that different needs require different tools.

"The sharpening steel and the honing steel: optically speaking they are very similar and often confused with each other. There is, however, an important difference between these two tools. It is the goal you pursue: sharpening or bending.

The function of a sharpening steel
A sharpening steel removes material from your knife. By moving the edge alongside the steel remove steel to restore the V-shape of the edge. A sharpening steel can, therefore, be used to sharpen knives that have become blunt after frequent use. If you would use a sharpening steel on a daily basis little would be left of your blade after some time, which is fine in a commercial setting where the knives are sent out to be commercially sharpened on a daily basis and rotated with new one frequently.

The function of a honing steel
A honing steel, on the contrary, is not used to sharpen but to restore the bent edge. We call this folding back the burr. You can basically do this every time before you start using your knife. "


Stitchawl

 

[Old-School]

There's an old saying... "you can wrap a dog turd in tinfoil and make it shiny, it's still a dog turd" well you can wrap a crap steel in chrome too.... it's still a crap steel.

 

[FortyTwoBlades]

The problem is that some people just don't recognize that different needs require different tools.

"The sharpening steel and the honing steel: optically speaking they are very similar and often confused with each other. There is, however, an important difference between these two tools. It is the goal you pursue: sharpening or bending.

The function of a sharpening steel
A sharpening steel removes material from your knife. By moving the edge alongside the steel remove steel to restore the V-shape of the edge. A sharpening steel can, therefore, be used to sharpen knives that have become blunt after frequent use. If you would use a sharpening steel on a daily basis little would be left of your blade after some time, which is fine in a commercial setting where the knives are sent out to be commercially sharpened on a daily basis and rotated with new one frequently.

The function of a honing steel
A honing steel, on the contrary, is not used to sharpen but to restore the bent edge. We call this folding back the burr. You can basically do this every time before you start using your knife. "


Stitchawl

To be clear, my remark was facetious. Obviously they remain an option that sells in enough volume to warrant their continued manufacture. Slicks have a legitimate function as distinct from steels. I've used various kinds of steels, slicks, ceramic rods, carbide scrapers, and other similar implements with enough studiousness to gain an understanding of which to use under which circumstances, and they all have their advantages and disadvantages according to context.

 

[Spideyjg]

My 14" is really old and used but the arrow points away. The old Balken points at the F. Says Ferigo and Rosean Beograd on the handle. Real short only 11" total.

Will post pics later

 

[sodak]

[...] I've bought 2 or 3 new F.Dick slicks in the last 4 years and cut lines in them straight away with 400 grit wet/dry sand paper... 3 minute task instantly turns a tent peg into a beautiful tool for keeping a knife straight/sharp.

Could you describe that process in a little detail? Do you keep your strokes one way, or are you just trying for a scratch pattern along the length of the steel? I'd like to try it on some of my Hand American smooth steels that I got about 10 or 15 years ago... Thanks!

 

[Old-School]

Ok.... take a small strip on sandpaper about 1cm wide and 1 inch long (preferred grit 400 or 600) and start just below the makers stamp on the steel... wrap it around the steel and squeeze it as hard as you can and slide it straight down the steel and off the tip... rotate the steel in your hand 1/4 turn... bring the paper back to the top of the steel where you started and repeat... straight down the length of the steel and off the tip... do this 4 times until you're back to the stamp facing up. Grab a new piece of sandpaper, the same grit and repeat process again 4 times. Once completed... take a piece of 1200 grit and do the exact same thing again but only very lightly... you just want to take the rough edge of those lines you just cut in... start below the makers stamp, down the length of the steel and off the tip, rotate, repeat until you've gone around the steel one complete rotation with the 1200.... then simply wipe it down with a rag or cloth and you're done.

 

[stitchawl]

To be clear, my remark was facetious. Obviously they remain an option that sells in enough volume to warrant their continued manufacture. Slicks have a legitimate function as distinct from steels. I've used various kinds of steels, slicks, ceramic rods, carbide scrapers, and other similar implements with enough studiousness to gain an understanding of which to use under which circumstances, and they all have their advantages and disadvantages according to context.

Yes, that was obvious. I agree with you 100%. Each tool has its function and its followers. There is no 'one tool for all jobs,' although for some, if they only have a hammer, will try to solve each and every problem with a nail.


Stitchawl

 

[sodak]

Ok.... take a small strip on sandpaper about 1cm wide and 1 inch long (preferred grit 400 or 600) and start just below the makers stamp on the steel... wrap it around the steel and squeeze it as hard as you can and slide it straight down the steel and off the tip... rotate the steel in your hand 1/4 turn... bring the paper back to the top of the steel where you started and repeat... straight down the length of the steel and off the tip... do this 4 times until you're back to the stamp facing up. Grab a new piece of sandpaper, the same grit and repeat process again 4 times. Once completed... take a piece of 1200 grit and do the exact same thing again but only very lightly... you just want to take the rough edge of those lines you just cut in... start below the makers stamp, down the length of the steel and off the tip, rotate, repeat until you've gone around the steel one complete rotation with the 1200.... then simply wipe it down with a rag or cloth and you're done.

Thanks! I'm going to try this on one of my smooth steels just for fun and to compare.

 

[Spideyjg]

 

[Old-School]

Another very very old pre-war F.Dick restoration completed.

Now to start the next pile!

 

[Old-School]

Been a busy fortnight... Few more vintage pre-war steels have turned up from America that I purchased 5 weeks ago, restorations been going great.
First up was a 12' round that was looking pretty ordinary but under the several millimetres of gunk was revealed clean factory lines still evident and what is essentially still a brand new steel!

Removed the original wooden handle and fitted a plastic orange handle just so I can use it at work for the next week to see how it performs.. the last 2 days it has run beautifully. After this week, I'll most likely refit the original wooden handle and put this piece away for safekeeping just because 12' pre-war F.Dicks are the hardest to come across, they're really rare as most of them are 14's.

Next up was a 14' round.

This particular piece has a deer antler handle and chrome plated brass presentation fittings. This indicates that 100 odd years ago this particular steel was presented as a gift to a young apprentice butcher who'd just successfully completed his apprenticeship. After a quick disassemble and clean, this thing looks like it just came out of the box, it's obviously done less than a weeks work in it's entire life, it has 2 minor knife hits on the finger guard and deep factory lines and a mint stamp. I think this is about as mint condition as an original pre-war F. Dick steel gets.

Gave the fittings a light buff and reassembled. This will remain a personal display piece of mine in its original state. Whoever this belonged to originally, they obviously treasured it dearly.

Today another 14' round arrived on my doorstep, this one I plan to make my every day use piece, it has the extremely rare SUPER LARGE stamp. this steel will take a little more work as the original factory lines are almost completely worn out, it'll be sanded smooth, polished and new lines cut in by myself, the brass fittings will be straightened, polished and the original wooden handle will be replaced with a modern resin one. Really looking forward to having this one completed.

After this one, I currently have 5 more to do, that's if I don't see and buy any more! Hope everyone is well.

Cheers!

 

[Old-School]

All done!

Finishing touches, brass finger guard straightened to original position and a green stick chrome polish and she's looking better than the day she was first made 100+ years ago.

Now, onto the next one!

 

[Old-School]

New custom made and barrel shaped bone white nylon handles fitted to 2 big 14' Pre-wars that I've chosen for every day use at work. 1 polished up as a slick to cut my own lines in with 400 grit sandpaper and 1 left rough with original cut factory lines. I picked these up for $19 and $22 respectively and just yesterday after I was finished fitting the new handles I was offered $550 cash for the slick polished one... I haven't even had the chance to use it yet and I've no intentions of selling it as I'd probably never see another one with the rare giant sized maker's stamp.

So stoked with how they're looking now, the original yellow brass fittings and nickel coated brass fittings contrast nicely with the bone white nylon handles, they're gonna stand out from a mile away at work - I'm gonna have to keep a close eye on them! Bring on the week!

 

[Spideyjg]

Would it be worth the effort on my old Pre war Balkan?

 

[Old-School]

Would it be worth the effort on my old Pre war Balkan?

Clean that badboy up, she'll be better than new.

 

[Old-School]

2 more arrivals from the states for restoration.

The 11' flat will go into my personal collection as a display piece as it's extremely rare.

The 14' round will be restored and fitted with a nylon handle and be a daily use piece.

 

[Old-School]

Another Pre-war restoration and repair completed. This one I've polished then cut new lines in with 800 grit wet dry sandpaper and finished with 1200 grit. It's B - E - A - UTIFUL!

 

[Mr.Wizard]

We can include in that not only the texture imparted, but also the sandpaper grit incorporated into the steel (which I guarantee is happening).

Abrasive grain becomes embedded in the steel, like a copper lap? Does the same thing happen with knife blades?

 

[Bak]

Hi,
could you please give some more informations about this F. Dick prewar honing steel?
It is about 16,5 inches total, beechwood handle, bullhead cast iron hardware.
Waiting for renovation.