fallkniven f1 vg10 or 3G?

U

ukknifer

Joined
Jan 30, 2010
Messages
424
Hi

I am finally going to buy one.
Should I go for the vg10 version
or the 3G version?

Thanks
 
waddayawanna do with it?
vg-10 works for me. no xp with 3g.

great knife, great choice :D
 
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The VG 10 is great! Haven't had a chance to use the 3G. But the VG 10 takes and holds an excellent edge, resharpens easily in the field.
 
I use Fallknivens in both steels. The 3G does hold an edge better/longer if used as a slicer.

My experience is they perform very close to the same for batoning/chopping, not that you will be chopping much with the F1.

Personally, I generally opt for the 3G if is offered on a particuler model, but that is just personal preference, both steels are great performers.

Not sure if this is a consideration for you or not, but the F1 3G is a limited edition release.

Kevin
 
Listen to those two guys. They are both super knowledeble. They guided me toward buying the F1, and I am very happy with my purchase.

Thanks again Kevin and Zyhano, you guys are AWESOME!


-Freq
 
Mine is VG-10, and it holds an edge very well.

3G is not really a steel any more than San Mai III is a steel. 3G has a core steel of SGPS (Super Gold Powder Steel). So it's kind of like the U2. I fear that it may be a little bit brittle for heavy wood work, so I didn't go with that.

Blunt
 
Blunt,

I've seen your Bravo and Izula videos...

How does the F1 edge holding compare to those?


-Freq
 
Bluntruth said:
Mine is VG-10, and it holds an edge very well.

3G is not really a steel any more than San Mai III is a steel. 3G has a core steel of SGPS (Super Gold Powder Steel). So it's kind of like the U2. I fear that it may be a little bit brittle for heavy wood work, so I didn't go with that.

Blunt
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How does it compare to your bravo1 ? I have seen your reviews. Great man
 
freq18hz said:
Blunt,

I've seen your Bravo and Izula videos...

How does the F1 edge holding compare to those?


-Freq
Click to expand...

The F1 holds an edge better than the Izula, but not as good as the Bravo1 with its A2 tool steel (the Bravo1 is a much better survival knife than the Fallkniven, IMO). Because of the belly being so close to the hand, the Izula can carve up wood faster than either knife. But it's small size limits its usefulness.

So, why did I buy the F1 if I'm so happy with the Bravo1?
The F1 is going to replace my Bug-Out-Bag knife (RC-3), and my hunting knife (a Bear and Sons knife you haven't seen). I wanted something stainless and grippy when wet/bloody. I wanted something smaller and a little lighter to carry around every day in my EDC bag. Enter the F1. So far it's impressing me as a very good all around knife. I've only had it a couple weeks, but I've been using it and it hasn't chipped. I had to sharpen it once.

Blunt
 
Bluntruth said:
The F1 holds an edge better than the Izula, but not as good as the Bravo1 with its A2 tool steel (the Bravo1 is a much better survival knife than the Fallkniven, IMO). Because of the belly being so close to the hand, the Izula can carve up wood faster than either knife. But it's small size limits its usefulness.

So, why did I buy the F1 if I'm so happy with the Bravo1?
The F1 is going to replace my Bug-Out-Bag knife (RC-3), and my hunting knife (a Bear and Sons knife you haven't seen). I wanted something stainless and grippy when wet/bloody. I wanted something smaller and a little lighter to carry around every day in my EDC bag. Enter the F1. So far it's impressing me as a very good all around knife. I've only had it a couple weeks, but I've been using it and it hasn't chipped. I had to sharpen it once.

Blunt
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Doing some research and had to comment on this. I disagree. I saw a knife destruction test of the Bravo 1 and the Fallkniven A1. I know an F1 is not as strong as an A1 because its a smaller knife, but hey... the A1 kills the Bravo 1 in so many ways, and not just in sheer strength and durability, but in practicality. That said I would go for the F1 any day over the Gunny, or the Bravo 1. IMHO the F1 is the best practical, production knife survival/ bushcraft knife I have come across in my 27 years of experience with survival/ bushcraft knifes.

I am in the market for a new F1 as I recently lost mine. I had one in VG10 and loved it. I would like an Ltd. Ed. F13Glm or a F13G, but like other members here what concerns me is the brittleness of 3G steel, or super steel (SGPS). I don't care about how long 3G takes to sharpen, I am just concerned about how 3G will hold up to heavy bushcraft tasks like battening, whittling hardwoods or, if necessary, chopping. I tested the 3G waters with a U4 making a spoon out of wet cane and it chipped and quite badly. The steel seemed to crumble along the SGPS edge. When it was exposed it appears to have a cast iron look to it. (Note I had sharpened and removed the factory micro bevel prior to use and the knife had been used for almost 1 year). I was very upset and gave the knife away to someone who couldn't afford Fallkniven and he had to have it reground to get the chip out. Some have told me the U4 chipped because it was only a U4 with a 2.25mm thick blade. However I haven't had a knife do this before, let alone one so expensive. I am therefor now skeptical of 3G because of this and spending the big dollars on an F13G, TK2 or limited edition F13Glm. If anyone has any suggestions in helping me decide, it is much appreciated.
 
Indy, I have the U4 and several FK's in 3G and not experienced that kind of chipping!
I have seen microchipping on my VG-10, 1095, A2, CTS-XHP, O1, etc...
I'm sure it can happen also to my 3G knives sooner or later, but not to date.

Right now I'm working with a F1 3G rehandle in stag and I have grinded a lot in the edge to shape the profile my way.

1405169580-IMGP5713.JPG


No sign of micro-chipping on this knife.
In the end it has to be up to You as a buyer, what to get or not!



Regards
Mikael
 
ukknifer said:
Hi

I am finally going to buy one.
Should I go for the vg10 version
or the 3G version?

Thanks
Click to expand...

How good are you at sharpening? The 3G knife is going to take longer to sharpen and hone. It'll also hold an edge longer. I have an F1 and an S1 in VG10. I find that I can strop out micro folds and micro chips pretty easily and I am pretty happy that I went with the VG10. I have a Fallkniven folder in 3g and I found that I had harder time getting it sharp and I had to use a diamond stone. I am probably going to sell it. Hope this helps.
 
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Yes all those special steels SGPS, S30V ,etc are best sharpened with a diamond sharpener !!

VG-10 and similar N690Co are about the best you can do without going to the powder steels .
I have knives of the four I mention. Take your pick .For the powder ones get a diamond sharpener [those steels I also find are better with an occassional touchup rather than waiting for serious dullness.]

I still want to know how much of the problems are due to overheating during grinding !.
 
Just a quick follow up. I grabbed my F1 and S1, both VG10, and noticed my F1 is a little dull. I was able to get it from just under razor sharp to razor sharp in about 5 minutes using my Strop Bat, 4 sided strop that goes from coarse to just leather. My PXL, 3g 62 RC, would require a ceramic or diamond stones to do the same job and probably take twice as long. I could not sharpen it with my strop. This goes back to the age old question, something that's strong and can be resharpened quickly vs a super steel that holds and edge a good deal longer but requires diamond stones and typically more time on the stone to bring it back.

I'd suggest the Fallkniven DC4 and CC4 stones. They are very portable and can get you shaving sharp as long as you're good hand sharpening. I've also used and, to be frank, prefer the Work Sharp field sharpener. Something else to consider you can get a super steel at 59-60 RC that is a bit easier to sharpen than anything over 62. It's pretty obvious but I've found that I can strop back 3v at 60 RC much faster than D2 at 62 RC and again I cannot sharpen Fallkniven 3g 60+RC with my strop.
 
So I managed to collect duplicates of F1, H1 and WM1 in 3g and VG10. Which steel do I keep and why?
 
I've had an F1 in VG-10 for years and it has been great. For me, the 3G is not worth the huge price premium. I am also a fan of the Bravo-1 in A2 and the Gunny, but they are different knives in carbon steel not stainless.
 
3g is nice from the standpoint of having 2% vanadium & being pm steel ... but the price is quite high
 
Pilot1 said:
I've had an F1 in VG-10 for years and it has been great. For me, the 3G is not worth the huge price premium. I am also a fan of the Bravo-1 in A2 and the Gunny, but they are different knives in carbon steel not stainless.
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dirc said:
3g is nice from the standpoint of having 2% vanadium & being pm steel ... but the price is quite high
Click to expand...

Thanks for the input. I've managed to get them all at really good prices (located in Sweden). I started out with VG10 only to get a superdeal on the 3G a month later.
 
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