Finally got Mora, how sharpen?

cbach8tw

cbach8tw

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i finally got my first Mora, I like it a lot, more knife for a great price, so now that I have one, what is the best way to sharpen the scandi edge? Would using a a two sided diamond flat sharpener like you get at Walmart put a secondary edge on it and ruin the scandi edge? I have always heard that a scandi is not that hard to sharpen because of the zero edge angle. Any ideas or advice for those who like a scandi edge would be appreciated.
 
What makes a scandi easier to sharpen is you can lay the relative wide flat edge on the stone, diamond plate and mantain a constant angle. If you do this the walmart stone you ask about should work fine.
 
Sergeua said:
The most pleasure sharpening that would be on a water stone i think
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+1 Just recently sharpened my Mora Garberg for the first time on my Naniwa Chosera stones and the results were frightening! It's probably the sharpest knife I own at the moment!
 
If I was you I'd use sandpaper over anything labeled a knife sharpening System at Walmart. Get wet dry or just regular start at maybe 400 work your way up the the highest u can get your hands on mybe 6 to 800 if u can get higher go for it. Lay the Scandi edge flat on the paper and go to town
 
Now if u don't mind spending the money get a king kds it's about a $50 stone it's a 1k and 6k combo stone. It's kind 2 highest quality stones they make in one stone. With practice you can get that basic steel knife spilling hairs if u just add in a knives plus strop in that. I can even sharpen 35vn xhp off those stones and strops. It may take you a little to get your technique down but after you do you can shave off that
 
Both. Start with forward sharpening. Mora's usually come with a good edge straight out of the package, especially with a scandi edge, so you only need a fine-grain or high-grit whetstone for it, if that. Following that, strop it to help give it that fine quality sharpness that will keep the burrs in alignment and keep the edge for a longer period of time.
 
Litu said:
Both. Start with forward sharpening. Mora's usually come with a good edge straight out of the package, especially with a scandi edge, so you only need a fine-grain or high-grit whetstone for it, if that. Following that, strop it to help give it that fine quality sharpness that will keep the burrs in alignment and keep the edge for a longer period of time.
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Also with this... if you are planning on sharpening it, don't but a secondary bevel on it. It's unnecessary for scandi edge and could ruin the quality of the blade itself. Mora's aren't folders, and the scandi edge allows for a uniquely sharp edge that's easy to maintain-you put it on a whetstone and press down on that main bevel, then let the angle produced keep the proper edge for you. No second bevel required.
 
Waterstones! Just lay that big bevel down and take it as fine as you want. Scandi grinds excel at push cuts. For me personally I don't like a toothy edge on a scandi grid so I take it pretty far. Take mine to at least a 12k waterstone then strop with .5 micron abrasive. Then it pushes throught wood with ease.
 
All Mora blades are in simple carbon steels or soft stainless, so diamonds not needed to sharpen them. If you want to get a diamond stone regardless, so it can handle your other knives in harder steels, that will of course handle any Mora blade too.

A factor worth considering that somebody mentioned above and I've run into recently: the pleasurable sharpening experience you get based on the tactile feedback from the stone. Water based stones tend to give you this a lot better than diamond stones, at least the ones I've tried. It's worth getting a nice, modest-priced water stone, and learning to freehand sharpen with it. And it's fun! I recently got @FortyTwoBlades Arctic Fox, a 400-grit which is an aluminum oxide water stone that's perfect as an all-purpose one-grit sharpening stone. This is now my favorite all-purpose sharpening stone, and I use it on my own Mora carbon steel blade, and all my other kitchen knives, folders, utility knives, and outdoor-type knives in any type of carbon steel or softer/traditional stainless steels. For modern super hard steels like S30v/S35vn, M390, S90v/S110v, etc., you'd probably want to get something more optimized for cutting those, like a coarse diamond or a silicon carbide stone. But for all other steels and general purpose sharpening, I don't think I've ever enjoyed sharpening as much as using the Arctic Fox.
 
Thanks, I was worried about getting an unwanted secondary bevel with my bad sharpening skills on this scandi grind. My whole purpose getting a Mora was to try and see how I would like the scandi grind, how it cuts and how handy it will be. It is stainless. Much appreciated everyone.
 
All standard Mora knifes have a secondary bevel. It is very thin, just 1-2 tens of 1 mm - you can se it with a loup, it id hard to se with the naked eye.

It is this thin edge you shall sharpen (hone) - not the wide edge behind it !

Only wood working Mora knifes have a singel edge.

Thomas
 
Sand paper, 220, 320, 600, and for a mirror polish, 1000 and finally 2000 grit. Use windex not water.. and don't strop please. The result will be a really scary sharp knife....
 
mark the edge with a sharpie, don't change sides or go to next grit until all marks are gone. after last stone, lift the spine just a bit and do 2 or 3 strokes a side. this will give a micro-bevel.
 
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