First completed knife

M

mooniesdl3

Joined
May 12, 2016
Messages
198
I just profiled a single bevel nakiri that is .100" thick and 2" from spine to edge. I used a 6 degree primary bevel that ends roughly .95" from the edge. This left the thickness right at .01" on the edge to put the secondary 15 degree bevel on. This is a blank that I had JT cut and heat treat to 62-63 for me and thanks to all of you it seems to have turned out amazingly well. Handle materials will be here sometime this week and I will post pictures of my first fully completed knife.

I do have a couple more that I've been working on, one for quite some time. I do have a knife I got as a finished blank that I just added a handle to, I do not count this one as my first knife as it was really just for learning to attach handle material.
 
Very nice.
Put a black Micarta handle on using Corby bolts and it will last forever.

When re-sharpening it, just lay the ura ( back side) flat on the stone, with your fingers over the edge portion. Give it several pull strokes to clean it off. Do all other sharpening at the desired angle on the omote ( front side). After sharpening the omote, go back to the ura and give it two or three flat pulls on the fine stone to remove ay reverse burs. Strop the edge and ura and it will slice like a light sabre.

On my nikiri, I make the edge just a tad curved ... just a few degrees of arc, almost straight but not quite. This allows for perfect cuts on the board. If it is perfectly straight, it may not contact the board surface completely.
 
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith said:
On my nikiri, I make the edge just a tad curved ... just a few degrees of arc, almost straight but not quite. This allows for perfect cuts on the board. If it is perfectly straight, it may not contact the board surface completely.
Click to expand...
Very true. In use - you can compensate somewhat for that by using long slicing motions, not just up-and-down chopping motions.
 
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith said:
Very nice.
Put a black Micarta handle on using Corby bolts and it will last forever.

When re-sharpening it, just lay the ura ( back side) flat on the stone, with your fingers over the edge portion. Give it several pull strokes to clean it off. Do all other sharpening at the desired angle on the omote ( front side). After sharpening the omote, go back to the ura and give it two or three flat pulls on the fine stone to remove ay reverse burs. Strop the edge and ura and it will slice like a light sabre.

On my nikiri, I make the edge just a tad curved ... just a few degrees of arc, almost straight but not quite. This allows for perfect cuts on the board. If it is perfectly straight, it may not contact the board surface completely.
Click to expand...

I haven't used Corby's yet, I will be using G10 (.060 red with black scales) and mosaic pins. I've read a good bit on sharpening this type of blade, and your advise is exactly my plan. Good advice on a curve, I will see how it does and adjust if needed as your advice does make perfect sense, impossible to keep it exactly straight.
 
Forgot to mention, this was all done on a Harbor Freight 1x30. Working with a welder friend on building a 2x72 with 2HP VFD. Already picked out the motor and VFD. Will need to wire the garage for the power, but one of my sons is an electrician, it's already been discussed.
 
If I lay the edge of my nikiri and usuba on the surface plate, the tip and heel are probably between 1/32 and 1/16 above the surface. That should workout to be between 2 degrees and 4 degrees of arc. It isn't enough to rock much, but it assures that the edge is always in contact with the board on slices. Even in dicing and chopping I use an elliptical cut, not just up and down.
 
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