First non-1084 steel order?

T

txwill

Joined
Dec 11, 2018
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My last knife was from a piece of s30v, but everything before that has been with 1084. So, I'm looking for suggestions of two or three different steels to try next.

-I'm doing stock removal, not forging
-I'll be sending them out for HT
-Not necessarily looking the cheapest, but I don't want the expense of M390 either
-At least one stainless steel
-Easier to grind, easier on belts would be nice, but not the most important factor
-I'm planning to make 4-5" drop point camp and hunting knives, along with some chef knives

Suggestions?
 
For stainless try AEB-L, cpm 154, or 440-c. For non stainless try A2, D2, or O1. These will make great knives, not too expensive, and on the easier end for grinding and finishing.

If it were me, I would use AEB-L and A2. Have your heat treater run them at around 61 hrc, ~62 hrc for kitchen knives.

Hoss
 
If you scrap the easier to grind requirement, my favorite steel currently is z-wear/cpm cru-wear. I agree with the above suggestions too though.
 
For carbon steels, I like 8670, 15N20, 80CrV2. 8670 is available in thicker sizes than 15N20, and 80CrV2 seems to take a darker acid etch and stone tumbles with more interesting patterns to me compared to 15N20/8670.

The other nitpick I experience with 15N20 is depending on where you purchase it from, it can come slightly harder making it more difficult to drill/machine. I have a little old kiln and can anneal it to make that part easier.
 
ashwinearl said:
For carbon steels, I like 8670, 15N20, 80CrV2. 8670 is available in thicker sizes than 15N20, and 80CrV2 seems to take a darker acid etch and stone tumbles with more interesting patterns to me compared to 15N20/8670.

The other nitpick I experience with 15N20 is depending on where you purchase it from, it can come slightly harder making it more difficult to drill/machine. I have a little old kiln and can anneal it to make that part easier.
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I'm not familiar with any of those, other than just hearing of them. But I'll look into them, thanks!
 
Let's say I make a 4" blade drop point camp knife out of 1084. And then make two more from 1095 and 52100. And assuming they're all heat treated professionally.

Would I notice any real world difference?
 
If you go with AEB-L maybe someone with more experience can chime in on how thin you can grind pre heat treat without it warping. I do my own heat treating and grind post heat treat but still get warping with AEB-l on Stock about .1". I'd hate to see you send off a bunch of ground blade only to get some some bacon back. I've never sent out for heat treat so maybe its a non issue.

I also find that AEB'L grinds nicer after heat treat anyways. It seems gummy to me pre heat treat.
 
txwill said:
Let's say I make a 4" blade drop point camp knife out of 1084. And then make two more from 1095 and 52100. And assuming they're all heat treated professionally.

Would I notice any real world difference?
Click to expand...

You could expect 20% better wear resistance from the 52100. You could get an awesome hamon with the 1095, and a bit more edge holding.
 
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