For what it is worth :
One very light grease is engine rebuild grease. It is like whipped cream. The oil in it separates and pools in the low spots if you look in a can of it. That sounds like a bad idea, a poorly formulated product, but say for a ball bearing exposed to the elements with just tiny gaps between the parts the thick part will collect at the gap and "seal it" the the oil will sluff back into the area where the balls roll and keep them lubed. Engine rebuild grease doesn't hang around in the engine long enough to do that but I have had similar thicker European grease that behaves the same way and it was formulated for long term anti weather gap sealing.
Next up is a bicycle suspension guide and seal lube called Slick Honey. You can find it in bicycle shops. It's quite light, think Vaseline with mineral oil mixed in, and it's pretty expensive as grease goes but how much does it take for a knife pivot. One little tube will last a Knife Knut a life time.
The "oil" = fluid in an automatic trans can't be compared to grease etc. The fluid acts as a link between the moving parts to actually drive them around. Think ocean wave knocking a building down. Not just greasing the skids so the building can be dragged across the street.
# 1 knife pivot lube is : Starrett Instrument oil. Why ? It is so thin it gets into the pivot with the very smallest micro drop applied. Nothing hanging around on the outside of the pivot and getting on places that are only going to collect lint. Apply it with the finest hypo oil applicator.
Done.
PS : The oiler looks like this and has the Starrett oil in it. Disregard the DrySlide this is an old photo.
PPS : It you want to go full Nerd as I do wear a jeweler's visor with fairly high magnification so you can see exactly where you are applying the oil and how much (how little).
