Frame lock compared to back lock

I strongly dislike backlocks, they're difficult to one hand close. Frame locks are just so much easier. I actually really like liner locks, though many of my knives do not have liner lock. As mentioned, my folders are not under a great amount of stress, so I don't have to worry about the lock failing, and quite honestly liner locks are significantly easier to disengage. So I really prefer them.
 
I like all types of locks but if someone said to me - you have to exert back pressure on this folder while holding it - I would without hesitation choose a Tri-Ad lock. A frame or liner lock would be my last choice. It's not strength, it's reliability. There's probably more variation in liner/frame locks and they're more prone to slippage compared to other locks.
So yeah, I love my ti, framelock flippers but not if my fingers depended on the locks.
 
Hickory n steel said:
Im sorry if I offended you or something, I guess I just wasn't very clear.
I wasn't saying that strength completely doesn't matter.
What I was saying is that if an important knife buying decision was based around lock types you shouldn't let supposed strength keep you from buying a knife you like.
In most normal use a knife is forced against the back spacer, lock bar, stop pin...ect so you shouldn't be in danger of one folding on you unless using your knife in an unsafe manner.

Now as far as strength goes, I have more confidence in a lock bar than a stop pin to well stop my blade.
Not to say that lock bars fail all of the time but they are much smaller than a much larger lockbar.
Tests normally seem to test how well a lock holds a blade open which may be their job, but what they need to test is how much Force it takes for a knife to fold backwards which is the direction a blade is forced during normal use.
I may be wrong, but I think a stop pin might fail before a back lockbar in most cases.
Click to expand...

No worries, thanks for clarification.

Agree with the point that the lock type isn't the only or main consideration in getting a folder. There are several types that have worked well. My three favorites and I have multiple examples of each: back lock, frame lock, compression lock. All work great actually, none of these has yet failed on me. I'm still shifting to fixed blades everywhere I can, and am in the act of even getting a small fixed blade setup for daily carry. However.....I still love folders and will never get rid of all mine. It's still pretty interesting to consider the aspects of the different lock types, why they exist, and what their relative merits are.
 
not2sharp said:
The frame lock is stronger and easier to maintain. But, neither knife should fail if you use it correctly, because you should never use a knife in a manner that loads heavy stress on a mechanical latch. For that kind of work, you should be using an appropriate fixed blade.

n2s
Click to expand...

Yep, I won't comment on the "stronger" part because I honestly don't know that for a fact. But I agree with the "easier to maintain" part because I've experienced it over quite a few knives and a number of years. A well executed frame lock like some of ZT's is so much easier for me to keep clean and functional than my back locks, which though very strong, have a bad habit of collecting crud in the internals. In fact, my other recent thread about "Best approach after cleaning in water" was partly about me figuring out the best way to clean all my back lock knives. The frame locks generally don't trap crud, so they are so much easier to keep clean.
 
Charlie Mike said:
The biggest strength of the framelock is your grip reinforces the lock.
Click to expand...

Charlie, do you think that's true for a LH user as well? I enjoy my frame locks, but I've always noticed a clear RH bias in the design. This has never stopped me from using them effectively; I can close all mine one handed, no problem. But I wonder if the LH user grip would reinforce the lock position in the same way as RH.
 
bobshoy said:
What is a good quality reasonably priced framelock knife to introduce someone to them?
Click to expand...

Kershaw Zing isn't bad. I picked one up for under $20, and if you keep your eye open, you can score one for around this amount.

Kershaw Guy had some for cheap, Big5 has it on sale now and again.

Decent introductory piece for somebody wanting to test drive a frame lock.
 
maximus83 said:
Charlie, do you think that's true for a LH user as well? I enjoy my frame locks, but I've always noticed a clear RH bias in the design. This has never stopped me from using them effectively; I can close all mine one handed, no problem. But I wonder if the LH user grip would reinforce the lock position in the same way as RH.
Click to expand...

Sure, no difference.
 
xyrium said:
I'm definitely with the Triad lock crowd. This should get 'er done.

http://www.coldsteel.com/4max-2017.html
Click to expand...

So, that is interesting. I've been considering trying a Cold Steel Triad, perhaps a Recon. I'm not trying to start a flame war between the pro and anti Triad factions, I really want to know. Have you ever experienced reliability issues with your Triad locks in a dirty/hard use setting? Or are you never really using your CS knives that have Triad in a setting where dirt is an issue?

Why I ask: some in the knife community have noted this is an issue. I don't know that it is because I haven't observed it first hand. But here's an example:

http://www.alloutdoor.com/2013/10/01/analyze-lock-strength-folding-knives/

He quotes Cliff Stamp: "As Cliff pointed out in Episode 9, virtually all knives made today have locks that are sufficiently strong for most EDC tasks."

But then he goes on to say later about the Triad lock he tested: "This is the lock bar of the Cold Steel Mini Recon 1. There are sorts of cuts and curves in the lock bar because of the design of a lock back and because of the extra considerations made necessary by the Tri-Ad lock. And here is the weird thing: for all of the abuse this lock can take, during my testing period it was foiled twice by pocket lint. There are so many crevasses in the knife’s lock that lint loves to hide in there, and twice it built up enough to prevent the lock from engaging. With the closed and housed setup on a lockback Tri-Ad design, this seems like a likely event."

Would like to hear your thoughts on that. Obviously I assume you'll disagree. But have you seen adequate testing anywhere, or used your own Triad locks under hard use, and seen that they hold up fine?
 
Last edited:
Agree with the several folks who say variations of "strength isn't the only factor." Definitely true. Like the article I linked above, he mentioned other issues such as really "strong" locks that had other issues such as lock stability, or lock engagement/disengagement. Those things, I HAVE seen firsthand.
 
I'm not sure about that study, but I've been using CS's Ultimate Hunter for about a year on various camping trips, and outdoor duties, and the lock has never come undone. I suppose the lock back may be more susceptible to lint blockage than others, similar to how liner locks or frame locks could wear over time and start to slip.

On a side note, my major gripe with most CS products is that gap between the thumbstud and handle when the knife is closed. It could hang up on your pocket or otherwise, though t hasn't happened to me in practice. Lint though? Damn, that gap could certainly cause the knife to carry some lint with it as it closes. Still love my CS's though.
 
lieferung said:
I strongly dislike backlocks, they're difficult to one hand close. Frame locks are just so much easier. I actually really like liner locks, though many of my knives do not have liner lock. As mentioned, my folders are not under a great amount of stress, so I don't have to worry about the lock failing, and quite honestly liner locks are significantly easier to disengage. So I really prefer them.
Click to expand...

That's a good point. If you put together the Cliff Stamp comment that virtually all knives today have locks sufficiently strong for typical EDC tasks, and then take your point about convenience of the locking mechanism, it would seem to endorse the use of a well executed frame lock. Apart from the strength and engagement/reliability issues that may or may not affect frame locks, I do really like the ease of operation, and the ease of keeping them clean compared to my back locks.
 
bobshoy said:
What is a good quality reasonably priced framelock knife to introduce someone to them?
Click to expand...

I'm sure the experienced folks on this forum will have all kinds of great recommendations on that. One that I personally own and really happy with, and have purchased as gifts for some other family members who were not Knife Knuts but just wanted a good small knife, was the Kershaw Cryo G10 version. Yes it is made in China, but not everything made in China is a junk anymore. This is a well executed small frame lock for less than $30 if you shop around. Highly recommended in that price range.
 
I've become obsessive about cleaning out my pocket lint when I put on a freshly cleaned pair of jeans. :)
I've never witnessed lint foil a lock but I've heard about it over the years.
At the least it's more dust to clean off the knife.
 
Yep Charlie, agree. I didn't want to bring it into this thread and won't go any further with it here, because I really did want to compare frame locks versus back locks (versus turning it into a fixed vs folder debate). But you are right, somebody wants to eliminate the issue of locks altogether, go fixed. I've been moving more that direction myself recently, discussed in various other threads.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top