G10 Dyeing experiences versus Micarta?

Hashishiin

Hashishiin

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Dec 29, 2021
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So, I am looking to make a nice red burgundy Spyderco. I just got the Jade Yojumbo and have two Dodos of the type, but I hear G10 does not take Rit or Rit Dyemore well? Do you have any experience with the die more? Any project pics?

How about the Micarta on the PM2? Seems more porous than, say, the Shaman Micarta.
IMG_20231115_145103984_HDR~2.jpg
I have made only the Matriarch red, had a matching Buck 110 LW I dyed that I gave to a coworker who later attacked me from behind (luckily not with the knife...) In a meth and benzo fueled rage but that is another story.... And am working on an Espada L in the color.
 
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Micarta dyes easily, but try it in a hidden spot, to make sure it's the co!or you want.

Also, oils will darken the color.
 
I've dyed a few G10 scales. Other things. Rit synthetic on natural G10?

Don't leave the scales in the simmering bath for more then 40seconds. Set a timer for 30 and be ready to dunk it. They'll take a deeper color over 45 seconds and it won't match the color you're going for.

Dye with a lighter color at first. That way, if you don't the color, you can use another color that's darker. Or, change the tone of the final dye. Like yellow first. Red next. Or red first, blue next.
 
Crag the Brewer said:
Micarta dyes easily, but try it in a hidden spot, to make sure it's the co!or you want.

Also, oils will darken the color.
Click to expand...
Oh that is fine, I can dye it a lighter red if it is to darken over time. I like wine colored deep dark reds and purples and burgundy. Also want to keep that natural look.

Is regular Ritdye effective? Also, I don't know if you know this answer, but would you say removing the liners is truly needed? Have done it without with no ill results, but never in a compression lock because i find them such a hassle to put back together. On a Cold Steel.
 
Grasshopperglock said:
I've dyed a few G10 scales. Other things. Rit synthetic on natural G10?

Don't leave the scales in the simmering bath for more then 40seconds. Set a timer for 30 and be ready to dunk it. They'll take a deeper color over 45 seconds and it won't match the color you're going for.

Dye with a lighter color at first. That way, if you don't the color, you can use another color that's darker. Or, change the tone of the final dye. Like yellow first. Red next. Or red first, blue next.
Click to expand...
Thank you for this advice. Wow, that fast?
 
Hashishiin said:
Oh that is fine, I can dye it a lighter red if it is to darken over time. I like wine colored deep dark reds and purples and burgundy. Also want to keep that natural look.

Is regular Ritdye effective? Also, I don't know if you know this answer, but would you say removing the liners is truly needed? Have done it without with no ill results, but never in a compression lock because i find them such a hassle to put back together. On a Cold Steel.
Click to expand...

Idk about the liners? What material?

If your whole knife is stainless, just dunk it.

If it's like M4 or something, dont
 
Hashishiin said:
Thank you for this advice. Wow, that fast?
Click to expand...


Yes. 30 seconds.

It'll dye nylon too. Before you stick the scales in the hot bath. Stick an old toothbrush in it first. Time it. Then rinse good, and observe the color of the bristles.

The RIT synthetic also isn't something you want splashing on the stove top. It'll dye anything.
 
Crag the Brewer said:
Idk about the liners? What material?

If your whole knife is stainless, just dunk it.

If it's like M4 or something, dont
Click to expand...
Oh, the liners was with regard to Crucarta P.M2 and the M4 Yojumbo. The Dodo has no liners but yeah, one has way worse action due to corrosion. Yes, probably better to just do the scales and remove the internals especially on that M4...
 
Hashishiin said:
Oh, the liners was with regard to Crucarta P.M2 and the M4 Yojumbo. The Dodo has no liners but yeah, one has way worse action due to corrosion. Yes, probably better to just do the scales and remove the internals especially on that M4...
Click to expand...


When I said M4 I meant steel type. It's susceptible to corrosion and rust

I don't know their knife names, and models?
 
Word of advice.

Don't dunk light colored coated blades in RIT synthetic. It'll dye a blade coating too. But not as dark as the scales.

Here's how I know that tidbit of knowledge. This use to be a tan blade with baby food green scales. Now it's a Barney knife. Purple.


 
Correction*

The blade wasn't tan. It was grey. The scale color in real life is basically haunted house puke color. Couldn't do it but I liked the knife. Thank You, RIT.

(Example picture)


 
Color will wear .
Best bet is to buy a set already in that color.


Beneficial later on should you sell it as
you will have the original unmodified scales.

But if you must...
YouTube.
Rit synthetic dye
A little salt and vinegar.
 
Hashishiin said:
I hear G10 does not take Rit or Rit Dyemore well?
Click to expand...

Meh. If you believe the interwebs, the Earth is flat and Neil Armstrong landed in Burbank. Rit Dye More works nicely on G10. I've done a few knives using the color "Racing Red." One of my FRN's came out a little darker than your Matriarch. An FRCP came out a little lighter. That one has a LOT of miles on it, and the color has faded in the high-wear points. It makes it look faded and cool. I have a Manix 2 XL with Jade G10 scales. It came out looking VERY Burgundy. Or maybe a little more like Cabernet Franc. Regardless, it's a dark red wine, and it looks great. I can't upload pics here, so you'll have to take my word for it.
 
All dyed micarta…
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