G10 vs Micarta Grinding and Finishing

David Mary

pass the mustard - after you cut it
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Here's what I don't understand. If Micarta is resin and canvas (or paper, or linen, etc), and G10 is resin and fiberglass, then shouldn't G10 be more wear resistant, and harder to machine? And if so, why is it I invariably find that G10 is super easy to file, drill, grind and sand, whereas micarta of any kind always seem to be triple the work?
 
My guess is the type of resin used, true micarta uses phenolic resin which is very tough and g-10 if I’m not mistaken uses epoxy or fiberglass resin which is easier to sand, but funny enough I find g-10 to be harder on saw blades but much easier to sand and I think it’s just because of the fiberglass, it doesn’t like wood cutting blades.
 
The g-10 is harder, where the micarta is made of materials that shred, rather than abrade cleanly.
I don’t think it’s shredding so much as phenolic resin is more abrasion resistant, both products use a cloth material to form the layers so both would be liable to shred without the resins to hold them in place, polyester or fiberglass resin is harder but can also be more brittle, the fiberglass cloth helps strengthen it and reduce chipping or breaking while the phenolic resin in micarta is softer making it tougher in the sense of it’s harder to break and wears better, if you made some homemade micarta with polyester resin it would behave much more like g10, with resins harder doesn’t always equal better. It’s like if you took a piece of glass and a piece of rubber mat and scored the material with a knife, the glass would very clearly scratch and create a weak point that it could then easily break, the rubber mat would not cut well because the material gives more, you would need to apply a lot more pressure to make a noticeable cut.
 
I don’t think it’s shredding so much as phenolic resin is more abrasion resistant, both products use a cloth material to form the layers so both would be liable to shred without the resins to hold them in place, polyester or fiberglass resin is harder but can also be more brittle, the fiberglass cloth helps strengthen it and reduce chipping or breaking while the phenolic resin in micarta is softer making it tougher in the sense of it’s harder to break and wears better, if you made some homemade micarta with polyester resin it would behave much more like g10, with resins harder doesn’t always equal better. It’s like if you took a piece of glass and a piece of rubber mat and scored the material with a knife, the glass would very clearly scratch and create a weak point that it could then easily break, the rubber mat would not cut well because the material gives more, you would need to apply a lot more pressure to make a noticeable cut.

I’ve made homemade “micarta” and fibreglass or carbon fibre blocks. The cloth or paper are harder to sand regardless of whether I used both epoxy and polyester resin. It’s much like trying to sand denim versus hardwood.
 
I’ve made homemade “micarta” and fibreglass or carbon fibre blocks. The cloth or paper are harder to sand regardless of whether I used both epoxy and polyester resin. It’s much like trying to sand denim versus hardwood.
In my experience normal epoxy resin and polyester resin feel about the same, phenolic resin is completely different and isn’t really available to most consumers, That’s why you can’t make actual micarta at home is that unless you know someone who works in a commercial factory that can get phenolic resin you can’t really duplicate it. In my opinion I haven’t really noticed any difficulties in the cloth material sanding, when you made micarta at home did you use a press or just a clamp? I think that could have an effect I don’t think a clamp is enough, I think you need a very large press to get enough force to compact the cloth. All I know is I’ve worked with a lot of resins and can definitely tell the difference in how some of them sand. I still think that’s the biggest difference in how professionally made micarta or g10 works is the type of resin, with the exception that the glass in the g-10 kills wood blades
 
Here's what I don't understand. If Micarta is resin and canvas (or paper, or linen, etc), and G10 is resin and fiberglass, then shouldn't G10 be more wear resistant, and harder to machine? And if so, why is it I invariably find that G10 is super easy to file, drill, grind and sand, whereas micarta of any kind always seem to be triple the work?
I have used only once G10 , orange one .I buy it from knife store ......That thing have very little glass fiber inside . That why it is easy to grind. I have REAL industrial composite /G-10/ with fiberglass......It is more heavy and that thing will dull dril bits one first hole .
 
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Watch out for cheap Chinese G10 with 99% epoxy.
I bought mine from a respectable store in Germany....but who knows
ytwo0TW.jpg
 
I bought mine from a respectable store in Germany....but who knows
ytwo0TW.jpg
I like that lanyard solution, nice work. Orange g10 is one of my favourites.
You are also in Europe, so have a look at Volnik(.pl) in Poland. Marcin who runs the place is a nice guy, I bought some sheets of g10 from him last year, good quality, prices and shipping. The stuff in my last chef is from him:
tpi2zqg.jpg


You can also check out Matkniv in Czech Republic, they are official distributors of Ultrex/Norplex G10 and micarta in Europe. I plan on trying them in the near future.
 
My guess is the type of resin used, true micarta uses phenolic resin which is very tough and g-10 if I’m not mistaken uses epoxy or fiberglass resin which is easier to sand, but funny enough I find g-10 to be harder on saw blades but much easier to sand and I think it’s just because of the fiberglass, it doesn’t like wood cutting blades.
That’s almost identical to my experience with G10. I tried cutting some relatively thin textured G10 with a jig saw and ruined two blades before getting both scales cut out.
 
It's micarta that I have a problem with. It wants to burn and smoke if I don't use the right technique with the grinder. I have to touch, release, touch release, because if I just press and power through the cut (like I can with G10) it creates a cloud of smoke that stings the eyes. I really need to find some googles, these safety glasses aren't cutting it.
 
I rough grind micarta with 60 grit AO, and yeah it gets hot quick. One has to watch not to burn the material. Belts like they are free etc etc.
I cut micarta and g10 with the bandsaw I use for steel. Usually 18 tpi, to much work to change blades to a lower tpi but that sure is faster. Also for straight long cuts I use my mitre saw with a medium fine tooth blade.
Works well.
 
It's micarta that I have a problem with. It wants to burn and smoke if I don't use the right technique with the grinder. I have to touch, release, touch release, because if I just press and power through the cut (like I can with G10) it creates a cloud of smoke that stings the eyes. I really need to find some googles, these safety glasses aren't cutting it.
Which grit belt and speed you use ? I have one 40 grit zirconia belt which I use only on micarta and wood .I never notice any problem with micarta ....with around 10 m/s belt speed .
 
I just started using it last month. The cutoff wheels seem to hold up fine. I got the saw on sale for $59 at Princess Auto, the Canadian version of Harbour Freight.
 
I keep a G10-ruined bandsaw blade around for cutting more G10.
 
I rough grind micarta with 60 grit AO, and yeah it gets hot quick. One has to watch not to burn the material. Belts like they are free etc etc.
I cut micarta and g10 with the bandsaw I use for steel. Usually 18 tpi, to much work to change blades to a lower tpi but that sure is faster. Also for straight long cuts I use my mitre saw with a medium fine tooth blade.
Works well.


I grind micarta with a 36 grit zirconia belt. Anything else just loads up and burns. Then I clean up with Japanese rasps. I’d I could get 36g AO belts, I would use them, but they only go to 80grit with my local supplier.
 
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