The BladeForums.com 2024 Traditional Knife is ready to order! See this thread for details:
https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/bladeforums-2024-traditional-knife.2003187/
Price is $300 ea (shipped within CONUS). If you live outside the US, I will contact you after your order for extra shipping charges.
Order here: https://www.bladeforums.com/help/2024-traditional/ - Order as many as you like, we have plenty.
You know how to adjust vertical blade play out of an axis lock? Cool. :thumbup:
Would you like to share? That info could come in handy. I've heard that messing around with the stop pin yielded good results for some folks, but that's never made any difference in my knives.
Seems like a nice knife.
Why call is a POS or "piece of junk" while at the same time singing its praises.
Why can't it just be a good knife?
Good job staying objective about the knock-off garbage, but throw it away and buy the real thing.
This is OT at this point, but since it has been asked:
The blade of a benchmade axis-lock knife is supported against sideways blade-play by the pivot-washers and knife scales which can be loosened/tightened via the pivot-screw to eliminate play while maintaining low-friction rotation.
When locked open, the blade is supported against vertical blade-play by the pivot, stop-bar, and Axis-bar which transfer their loads into the liners. All three can be rotated in the event of slight deformation or excessive wear. Further, the axis-bar is designed to ride snug in the tracks cut for it in the liners, and the blade tang should be "ramped" such that the bar wedges between the tang and liners by force of the omega springs. In my axis-lock Benchmades, the axis bar does not travel the entire length of the liner-tracks when the blade is open but is brought up short. This wedge-effect secures the blade with NO possibility of vertical blade-play. As the tang/bars/liners wear down, the omega-springs force the axis-bar further up the tang along the liner tracks, maintaining that secure zero-play lock. If I flip open the knife with enough force, the axis-bar wedges tightly into place and is difficult to disengage.
If your benchmade evinces vertical play when open, first ensure that the axis bar is fully engaged, i.e. it cannot travel any further up the tang. It is possible that the omega springs are weak or broken and so the bar isn't traveling as far up the tang as it should. If the bar travels as far as the liner cut-outs allow and vertical play remains, then either the tang was improperly cut and is not meeting the axis-bar where it should OR the liner cut-outs were improperly cut and are preventing the axis-bar from meeting the tang where it should.
I bought the black one a few years back out of curiosity, it was $15 shipped. I was surprised that they pulled it off selling it for peanuts, actually it probably came from the same factory as the original BM Snody as the quality really is there.
...
The Benchmade red class was made by Sanrenmu. I don't believe they have any affiliation (Ganzo and Sanrenmu) based on Ganzo using better materials, but Sanrenmu having better quality control.Erm, I don't think so.
IIRC Benchmade makes all of their knives in the US, except for some older Red Class knives which were made in China (Hong Kong).
None of the Blue or Black class knives were ever made in China from what I understand.
The 14205 and 14210 are Blue class knives.
Toshi
Erm, I don't think so.
IIRC Benchmade makes all of their knives in the US, except for some older Red Class knives which were made in China (Hong Kong).
None of the Blue or Black class knives were ever made in China from what I understand.
The 14205 and 14210 are Blue class knives.
Toshi
I have owned dozens and dozens of Benchmade AXIS lock folders and find I was able to adjust bladeplay out of all of them to an acceptable (or non-existing) level. I think the issue is more that when someone buys a $6 Chinese knock-off of an American designed and manufactured knife costing much, much more, they tend to overlook QC issues and focus on what they think can prove justification for the poor choice to begin with...
I seriously doubt it. I just know how to adjust the AXIS lock.
And sure, it goes both ways but most people would send back a troublesome expensive knife.
Erm, I don't think so.
IIRC Benchmade makes all of their knives in the US, except for some older Red Class knives which were made in China (Hong Kong).
None of the Blue or Black class knives were ever made in China from what I understand.
The 14205 and 14210 are Blue class knives.
Toshi
This is OT at this point, but since it has been asked:
The blade of a benchmade axis-lock knife is supported against sideways blade-play by the pivot-washers and knife scales which can be loosened/tightened via the pivot-screw to eliminate play while maintaining low-friction rotation.
When locked open, the blade is supported against vertical blade-play by the pivot, stop-bar, and Axis-bar which transfer their loads into the liners. All three can be rotated in the event of slight deformation or excessive wear. Further, the axis-bar is designed to ride snug in the tracks cut for it in the liners, and the blade tang should be "ramped" such that the bar wedges between the tang and liners by force of the omega springs. In my axis-lock Benchmades, the axis bar does not travel the entire length of the liner-tracks when the blade is open but is brought up short. This wedge-effect secures the blade with NO possibility of vertical blade-play. As the tang/bars/liners wear down, the omega-springs force the axis-bar further up the tang along the liner tracks, maintaining that secure zero-play lock. If I flip open the knife with enough force, the axis-bar wedges tightly into place and is difficult to disengage.
If your benchmade evinces vertical play when open, first ensure that the axis bar is fully engaged, i.e. it cannot travel any further up the tang. It is possible that the omega springs are weak or broken and so the bar isn't traveling as far up the tang as it should. If the bar travels as far as the liner cut-outs allow and vertical play remains, then either the tang was improperly cut and is not meeting the axis-bar where it should OR the liner cut-outs were improperly cut and are preventing the axis-bar from meeting the tang where it should.
I'll second this with the addition, reading the title of your thread made me laugh this morninNice read and review well done. Thanks for taking the time to post it. Certainly worth my time to read it.![]()