Back on topic... Last week at work, My friend and I used his GB american felling axe (largest head, curved 36" handle, I believe) to buck 5 logs. 2 were over 30 inches, the others, from 8" to 24". The axe bites quite deeply, and holds an edge very well, but it also gets pinched often and hard.
I haven't actually had a GB american felling axe in hand... are they flat faced like the rest of their models or do they have a high-centerline? I'm assuming they don't, hence the pinching.. sort of why I haven't purchased any of their full sized models.
My "out to lunch" comment refers to 300Six saying that 'You could outfit yourself with almost every make and model of vintage American for the same money.' [as a Gransfors] and you siding with him. I maintain that simply isn't true and isn't close to being true for the reasons previously stated.
As far as the steel is concerned, it is interesting to note that Councils velvicut 5160 wouldn't meet USFS spec. While you present an interesting definition of 'proprietary', GB doesn't appear to be embarrassed to say what steel they use, and actually seem proud of every part of their operations and products. I think it is a case of a successfully tweaked mid-carbon steel that they don't want to share, which allows them to produce axe heads with an excellent reputation, hardness, and toughness. More carbon doesn't necessarily mean a better product, but often an easier to harden (and often more brittle) product. I'm sure the USFS spec results in a large scale production of consistent axes, but I have no reason to think that they have the best or ideal steel, just a good enough steel for contractor's to mass produce at an acceptable price while meeting spec. . .
Oh this old argument again... Really when it comes down to it, heat treat > steel composition. GB uses a proprietary steel with .55% carbon content. It's probably pretty close to 1055, but it might have other elements present. Regardless, they do a very good job heat treating it. From my experience (I own a scandi, SFA, wildlife and mini), they fair pretty well compared to my vintage axes in terms of heat treat... perhaps not as great with edge retention (to be expected with lower carbon %), but tough enough, easy enough to sharpen, and takes a wicked enough edge that I don't mind it. Where they falter is on their head geometry - the flat-faced, no high-centerline design just doesn't lend itself to felling and other heavy tasks; they stick/pinch too much.
That's why my collection (save a couple vintage GB double bits) really just cuts off at a pack-friendly boy's axe (the scandi). Anything past that and I'd prefer a vintage axe (like my 3# Keen Kutter Jersey on a 31"). But for lighter tasks, especially carving, the GBs are hard to beat. I think this is the majority of their market - high quality, amazing fit-and-finish, lighter-usage pack/bucshcraft axes that require zero work out of box. With those specifications, I'd be hard pressed to name off competitive options.
My usual bring-alongs when camping are my 3lb Keen Kutter and either the GB wildlife or SFA for carving and lighter tasks. The other day, I actually used my GB SFA to do the majority of the carving of this muddler. Made it from a 4" round of cherrywood. Probably would have been easier with something thinner, but that's in retrospect. My dog was watching and decided she wanted to carve up her own piece as well

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. . .Even today the USFS spec for axes is,
3.2.1.1 Steel composition. The tool head of each type of ax shall be forged from fully killed plain carbon AISI/
SAE steel containing 0.72 to 0.93 percent carbon, 0.30 to 0.90 percent manganese, not more than 0.040
percent phosphorus, and not more than 0.050 percent sulfur.
Vintage makers regularly met or exceeded this standard. Industry demanded it prior to the chainsaw. Axe makers weren't making toys for boys to go out and get their He-man on with. Lumberman were making big money and they needed their workers equipped the best tools available to stay competitive.
As much as I hate to argue with you SP, the USFS probably hasn't adhered to those standards in quite awhile. These days, they're probably on such a budget and have to pick their axe manufacturers based on the lowest bidders for government contracts that they can't afford axes made to those standards. I know for a fact that the Council FSS boy's axe (which Council sold to the general public after their contract ran out) were made in the same manner as the rest of their non-velvicut line. That is to say, 1060 (or .60%) steel hardened to 48-55hrc (which, while more than adequate for regular use, doesn't really meet the .72+% or 54-58hrc specifications set by the USFS).
I feel as though those standards were probably set when axes were much more the mainstream tool or at least saw more use. These days, chainsaws are probably used for the majority of the work and axes are relegated to lighter or utility tasks like driving wedges... and for that, 1060 at 48-55hrc is more than adequate. Makes me slightly curious who currently has the govt. contract making axes for the USFS... doubt they're making as quality a product as Council did
I have the big double bit and the small forest axe. Looking to get the American Felling axe and I see on the web that it comes in multiple configurations with curved and straight handles in different lengths.
Anyone have these different versions and can recommend one over the other? Thoughts? Reviews? Positives and negatives? I'm talking specifically about the American Felling axe model form Gransfors Bruks.
Thanks
How tall are you? I'm a shorty at 5'4 and 115 lbs, and I can't stand using 36"ers outside of splitting rounds. 30-32" is ideal for me when it comes to heavy work like felling and bucking. As for curved or straight, it's really just preference... my current favorite handle is one I carved (on the bottom) - mostly straight with a slight offset to match the balance point, and a more ergonomic knob: