graphic - one tool field disassembly

Hard Knocks

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The object of this thread is to illustrate how an animal can be broken down in the field by the use of a knife alone, no saw or hatchet, by learning and utilizing the natural points that allow for this, the joints.

Although this is illustrated on a bear, it can be applied to other game as well. Some locations will transfer over directly from animal to animal, while others will require learning the location as it differs from animal to animal.

The pictures in the following posts will be graphic. Please do not proceed if you do not wish to see them.
 
On a bear or mountain lion, make the initial cut from the pad of the hind foot down to the tail, stopping just between the tail and the anus. Do this on both legs. If you are doing a full body mount, or have any question as to whether the pads need to stay on, begin the cut just at the rear of the pad. If you are doing a rug mount, the pads will come off when taxidermied anyway, so begin the cut about halfway through the pad as it will help in peeling back the pad and reaching where the joint lies when you get there. After splitting the legs, this is a good time to pop the joint of the tail away from the body. Unfortunately I did not get a good picture of that.

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Start the cut up the centerline of the belly side. Make sure to leave evidence of sex attached to one side or the other as most or all state agencies will require this. Split it from the anus to the throat region above the hinge point of where the head attaches to the neck.

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Skin back the hide of both hind legs and expose the ankle joint. This joint does not lie in the heel as so many try to cut through, but rather a couple inches more toward the toes. Think about the point of your own heel pad where it starts just back of the arch of your foot. Cut through the joint from the under side, applying pressure downward on the toe side of the foot, continue until you are through the joint.

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Do nearly the same on the front legs. Skin back the hide high enough to expose the wrist joint. This joint is fairly straight forward and lies right in the hinge point of the wrist, just above the dew claw. If you're unsure exactly where to hit this joint, bend the wrist a couple of times and aim for dead center of the bend, from the underside. Continue in the same manner as the hind feet, applying pressure and cutting through the joint until it is free from the leg. Be careful not to cut into the hide on the far side.

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Once both feet are removed, peel back the hide away from the chest and neck area, exposing the neck joint. A lot of folks struggle with this cut and choose to use a saw blade, but breaking through this joint can be readily accomplished with a knife, provided you hit it right. As with the previous joints, go after this one from the underside (throat side) of the neck, not the back of the head. Take a hold of the head and bend it in the neck area a few times to find the hinge point, and then cut as dead center as you can through the wind pipe and throat and into the round joint that joins the head and neck. Insert the knife into the center of the joint, cutting one way and then the other while applying downward pressure to the head. What you want to do is cut from the inside of the joint as much as possible, although there is a lot of muscle in this area that you will need to cut through as well. The more meat you cut through, the less material is holding the head to the neck, so cut through as much of the meat as possible while leveraging the head in the opposite direction of the natural movement of the joint.

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Some extra thoughts:

The head and tail joint separations work the same on elk and deer as shown on this bear. The legs of elk and deer are obviously a bit different and hopefully there will be opportunity to illustrate those animals later in this thread.

Large/older animals are knit together stronger than younger animals. Younger animals will nearly pop apart with the introduction of steel to joint, while the older ones may require more effort.

I didn't illustrate the quartering cuts, as I figured more folks would be familiar with those already, like hitting the ball joint of the hip on deer/elk. Also, I didn't go into the removal of the skull or feet from the hide, as I wanted to give more of a field guide to help get your work done and start you moving toward home. Many taxidermists also prefer to do some of this final work themselves anyway.
 
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Bonus tips:

1. If you're going to have a rug mount done, be careful to make a nice cut evenly across the chest area so that you don't end up with a big flap on one side or other of the leg.

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2. Remember that your blade doesn't care if it dismembers you or your prey. A near miss......

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Great stuff/presentation mate, I have broken down a "couple" of deer in the field (that Black Fallow from March for eg) with just my B4. The anatomical knowledge makes it so much easier.
 
Excellent write up! What two blades are those you used?
 
Excellent write up! What two blades are those you used?

Thank you. The camo-handled blade is a Survive Knives GSO 3.5 in CPM 3V and the black-handled knife is a Swamprat, a modified Rodent Trail similar to a Rodent Solution, in SR-101 (52100).

Great stuff/presentation mate, I have broken down a "couple" of deer in the field (that Black Fallow from March for eg) with just my B4. The anatomical knowledge makes it so much easier.

You are too modest my friend. I know you have extensive knowledge in this field. Anything you decide to share will be more than welcome :thumbup:

I've been trying to get some field use on at least these blades this fall: The Swamprat (which is my old standby now, I love it), the GSO 3.5, a GSO 4.1, a CPK FK, a modified liten bror, and Busse's Anorexic Basic 4. I'm down to the CPK, the liten bror, and the B4 now, having dressed this bear with the first two, and two bear with the 4.1. The B4 is next in rotation, as I already have some use on the liten bror and Nate's field knife. You had 'a little' influence on me grabbing up a B4 ;)

Excellent thread :thumbup:
I didn't know they had Pygmy Bear in Idaho :)

LOL! :p
 
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Some extra thoughts:

The head and tail joint separations work the same on elk and deer as shown on this bear. The legs of elk and deer are obviously a bit different and hopefully there will be opportunity to illustrate those animals later in this thread............


Hopefully these pictures come in time to do some good this late in the season. Here's the cut placement for removing front and back lower-legs on deer. Everyone has trouble with the back leg it seems. Aim for the point that is biggest in circumference and you'll hit the joint dead-on. You'll know you've got it if you can make a nice deep initial cut on the posterior of the leg like in this picture below. After the initial cut, ring the leg and bust it off.

Rear leg

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Note that your initial cut should sever the tendons on the posterior of the leg that can be seen better in this picture after the lower portion of the leg has been removed. When deciding where to cut, look for the spot where the tendons cause the leg to be the biggest around.

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The front leg is easier to determine where to cut, but more difficult to cut through than the back leg. Basically, bend the knee joint and aim for the middle of the anterior side of the knee, cutting as deep as it will let you. Then ring the entire joint and start cutting through as you bend and straighten the joint, severing the ligaments and separating the joint.

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The front legs are a bit more forgiving for cut placement than the rear legs, i.e. more than one path through the little bones of the joint. The rear leg requires a precise cut as the joint is more narrow with hard bone around it. Don't worry about being gentle with these. If the animal is on the ground, roll a block of wood or rock over to the leg, and leverage the joint of the rear leg over it hard after making the initial cuts. If the front legs are stubborn, bend the knee and then give it a hard twist inward toward the centerline of the animal.


My mother was busy using Nathan's field knife to fend off this giant cinnamon roll attack, so I elected to use the Buck 110 from Silver Knights with the drop point blade in CPM 154 for the joint removal. ;)

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Safety and success fellas. Cheers.
 
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Nice pics man, I'm leaving on my deer hunt tomorrow, and also have a bear tag. Hopefully we'll get something. How did that sr101 hold up on that bear hide?
 
Nice pics man, I'm leaving on my deer hunt tomorrow, and also have a bear tag. Hopefully we'll get something. How did that sr101 hold up on that bear hide?

Good luck out there, I hope you fill both those tags! The SR101 holds up really well IMO. It won't make as many comparable cuts as 3V will, but it also sharpens faster. If I would stay out of the joints, it would skin several critters with no trouble before the need to resharpen. I think one of the reasons I love it so much is that I just have it figured out for resharpening, and it responds with a scary edge. I'm VERY lucky I didn't hurt myself bad with that blade as that small cut earlier in the thread was done right at the start of the job.

I'll tell ya though, I would LOVE to have that SR101 blade done in something like 20CV or maybe Delta 3V. The D3V I've been using is stupid good, and while not truly stainless, very stain resistant. We used Nate's field knife the other day to gut, split the ribs, skin, remove the lower legs, and remove the heads at the neck joint on two muledeer bucks. That knife would still shave arm hair, even after all that joint work. It didn't still have the scary edge that puts a little fear into you when you feel it, but it would remove hair with just a little added pressure. Awesome steel and heat treat. Shoot straight bud!
 
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Nice, thanks for the feed back. I'll be carrying my Carothers field knife this weekend, but might let my nephew use one of my swamp rats.
 
In regards to post #2 - just to clarify; 'pads off' for rug mount only (as opposed to full mount), I assume?
 
In regards to post #2 - just to clarify; 'pads off' for rug mount only (as opposed to full mount), I assume?

Good catch sir! I wrote this up while that skinning job was still fresh in my mind.....for a rug mount. What I wrote would indeed be correct for that, but needs to be amended for other styles of mount.

Thank you!
 
Nice write up Hard Knocks Hard Knocks , but I can't see any pictures...:(


Oh man. You know, I put a lot of work into putting this together. To heck with photobucket!!! :mad:

I do not have these on my cell anymore, and I'm not sure how to retrieve them. I guess this means the small game with big knives thread is kaput too :(
 
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