Hacksaw blade broach....

Kohai999

Kohai999

Second Degree Cutter
Joined
Jul 15, 2003
Messages
12,554
Did a search, but my Fu must be deficient today.

Stabilized hardwood, what would be better....14tpi or 18 tpi?

Thanks, and Best Regards,

STeven Garsson
 
You're asking what hacksaw blade to cut stabilized wood with? Is there a reason you don't want to use normal woodworking saws on it?
 
I'm betting either would serve you well, but I'd go with the 14 TPI. At least for me, when I broach the block, I'm trying to remove a fair amount inside the hole(s) I've drilled. For that, I like a more aggressive cutting blade. I can't remember the TPI of the blade I turned into a broach, but it's a fairly fast cutter. Some may prefer the finer cutting blade-it likely may depend upon the process/approach each maker has during that portion of the project as to what works best. I sort of hate that part and just want to get the inside opened up enough to get other files in there to fine tune things. Good luck on the project, sir.

Jeremy
 
Another vote for the 14TPI.......will resist clogging up a bit better.
Darcy
 
Definitely the 14 TPI and you may even wanna remove a few teeth to get it down to 6-8 TPI. Also, if you need more thickness for heavier stock you can use multiple blades side-by-side. You can drill a hole right behind the teeth and pein a pin into the hole to keep them from spreading out in use. I hope that makes sense.
 
Instead of hacksaw blades, how about reciprocating saw blades? They're available with coarser teeth than hacksaw blades and in several different tooth profiles. They might make a good broach.

BTW, I gotta make myself a broach too!
 
I use the 14 tpi. I also use a reciprocal saw blade and just grind down make make a broach. You can get larger teeth and remove more material.
 
There is a construction/demolition grade sawzall blade that would make a nice broach, probably twice as thick as a regular blade, I believe it has a hook tooth design as well
 
Well, I'm an idiot... I read the title but my brain registered reciprocating saw blade and not hacksaw blade... I decided to take a look at mine and took a few really lousy pics-sorry they're so grainy.



I took the blade and ground the majority of the teeth down as well as slimming down the profile at the nose so it would fit into smaller holes.






Jeremy
 
Phillip Patton said:
Me too. I was originally going to glue 3 blades together, but one blade, reshaped some, does what I need it to. I could post a picture if you want, STeven.
Click to expand...

I'd love to see a pic. I'm about to make a sawzall broach with a wood handle for an upcoming project.
 
Well, I got the 10/14 tpi Diabolo blade(s) and am grinding it down just exactly as shown above, but I am silver soldering three together for rigidity, and a closer thickness of cut to finished product. Chews up some 36 grit belts to get to the right shape, will be done tomorrow.

A pic of your version would certainly be appreciated, Phillip.

Thanks for the tips all!

Best Regards,

STeven Garsson
 
Am I missing something here?

Unless you're working with hidden tangs not much thicker than a hacksaw or sawzall blade, you all have a whole lot more patience and time than I do. I prefer to use broaches at least half the thickness of the tang that's going in the finished hole. I make most of mine out of old files.

An 1/8" thick broach cuts twice as fast as a 1/16" thick broach, and cuts a lot straighter because it flexes a lot less. I can't even imagine fiddling around with a hacksaw blade to "rectangle out" and "square up" a slot in a block of hardwood or bone or gawd forbid, G10 to fit a 1/4" x 1/2" x 5" tang after drilling two 1/4" holes through it... heck, I could build and finish-grind an entire full-tang handle in the time that would take ;)
 
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james terrio said:
Am I missing something here?

Unless you're working with hidden tangs not much thicker than a hacksaw or sawzall blade, you all have a whole lot more patience and time than I do. I prefer to use broaches at least half the thickness of the tang that's going in the finished hole. I make most of mine out of old files.

An 1/8" thick broach cuts twice as fast as a 1/16" thick broach, and cuts a lot straighter because it flexes a lot less. I can't even imagine fiddling around with a hacksaw blade to "rectangle out" and "square up" a slot in a block of hardwood or bone or gawd forbid, G10 to fit a 1/4" x 1/2" x 5" tang after drilling two 1/4" holes through it... heck, I could build and finish-grind an entire full-tang handle in the time that would take ;)
Click to expand...

Hi James,

The three Sawzall blades silver soldered together will be roughly the SAME thickness as the tang.

One, maybe two 1/4" holes drilled through a nice piece of stablized koa about 5" long, and it shouldn't be more than 1/2 an hour to have a square edged slightly oversized hole that I'll fill with Acragel to float the blade so there is adjustability for offsets...aka my rookie ass not being dead center, lol.

The knife is a Cold Steel Outdoorsman made in Japan out of AUS 8. They are pretty cool blades, but I hate the kryton they use.

It will probably have taken me 3 hours to make the thing, because I want to do a nice silver soldering job on it and make an attractive and comfortable handle. That said, it should last a lifetime.

Best Regards,

STeven Garsson
 
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Here's mine:

122214-1.jpg


I was going to attach three together and put a nice handle on it, but it works as is, and I don't use it that often, plus I'm just too lazy, so I never got around to it. LOL
 
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