Hacksaw blade broach....

[AVigil]

Here's mine:

I was going to attach three together and put a nice handle on it, but it works as is, and I don't use it that often, plus I'm just too lazy, so I never got around to it. LOL

I use pretty much the same. When working on wood it works fine and removes material quickly.

 

[PEU]

I made mine with the teeth of one of these, can't be beat for sharpness, just silver weld a handle for it and you are good to go...

Pablo

 

[RaptureRaptor]

Hi James,

The three Sawzall blades silver soldered together will be roughly the SAME thickness as the tang.

One, maybe two 1/4" holes drilled through a nice piece of stablized koa about 5" long, and it shouldn't be more than 1/2 an hour to have a square edged slightly oversized hole that I'll fill with Acragel to float the blade so there is adjustability for offsets...aka my rookie ass not being dead center, lol.

The knife is a Cold Steel Outdoorsman made in Japan out of AUS 8. They are pretty cool blades, but I hate the kryton they use.

It will probably have taken me 3 hours to make the thing, because I want to do a nice silver soldering job on it and make an attractive and comfortable handle. That said, it should last a lifetime.

Best Regards,

STeven Garsson

Hi STeven,

I may be misunderstanding you and forgive me if that is the case, but if you plan on silver soldering the blades together won't you ruin the temper of your broach? I imagine that would kind of defeat the purpose

 

[Kohai999]

Hi STeven,

I may be misunderstanding you and forgive me if that is the case, but if you plan on silver soldering the blades together won't you ruin the temper of your broach? I imagine that would kind of defeat the purpose

They are just spot silver soldered and I use a heatsink.

Finished it today, found this cool file handle in my rollaway, and wanted to pop a hole into the holding "arms" so I could make the blade removable, but I snapped two carbide bits doing it, and got pissed off, so I epoxied it in. It's going NOWHERE.

Thoughts?

Best Regards,

STeven Garsson

 

[Andy Lewis]

For any of you guys that can build a decent handmade knife, I suspect you can also make a purpose-built broach or two that cut circles around some of the makeshift stuff discussed aleady.

The ones pictured below are 0.375", 0.125" and 0.10" wide L to R. Having that range is important for getting fast square predictable mortises across some common tang sizes. Anything between 8 and 12 tpi seems to work best IME across the majority of common handle materials (except G10). Doesn't necessarily have to be pretty, just crazy sharp and arrow straight. But then again life is too short for ugly tools IMHO...

Wishing you fellas a Merry Christmas and a happy healthy 2015!

 

[JG Custom Metal Works]

For any of you guys that can build a decent handmade knife, I suspect you can also make a purpose-built broach or two that cut circles around some of the makeshift stuff discussed aleady.

The ones pictured below are 0.375", 0.125" and 0.10" wide L to R. Having that range is important for getting fast square predictable mortises across some common tang sizes. Anything between 8 and 12 tpi seems to work best IME across the majority of common handle materials (except G10). Doesn't necessarily have to be pretty, just crazy sharp and arrow straight. But then again life is too short for ugly tools IMHO...

Wishing you fellas a Merry Christmas and a happy healthy 2015!

Now you're just showing off.

What is everyone using for g10? I imagine a finer tooth count per inch would be needed. Maybe 16 tpi? Also, are the 8-12 tpi ones able to hog out micarta?

 

[AVigil]

That will work just fine.

They are just spot silver soldered and I use a heatsink.

Finished it today, found this cool file handle in my rollaway, and wanted to pop a hole into the holding "arms" so I could make the blade removable, but I snapped two carbide bits doing it, and got pissed off, so I epoxied it in. It's going NOWHERE.

Thoughts?

Best Regards,

STeven Garsson