Handling a Spyderco Mule W.I.P.
- Thread starter Brian Avila
- Start date
I'm somewhat of a beginner with putting on scales, I've done about 8 so far. I have a couple of mules waiting for scales now, but I will do wood on mine. I was closely following your photos and everything looks very logical.
I have not done knives with as much curve as the mule handle has but I've concluded that I need sanding drums for the lower part of the handle. I use a cheap Craftsman grinder and its top wheel is small enough to get into the curves of the handle, but it is hard to control, I think a sanding drum would be easier to work with. I also need to spend the money to get some good belts finer than 80 grit. When I epoxy on the scales I usually spread out newspaper, mix my epoxy on the paper, clamp everything together and set it down on the paper. If the knife is glued to the paper, no big deal. I keep the alcohol and paper towels handy while doing the epoxy work to clean off the side of the blade and anything else that needs it. I am very paranoid about working with even a semi-sharp blade so I fold a piece of cardboard over the edge and then tape over it many times.
I've had to carefully measure and trim my corby bolts before. I needed them to go almost all the way through the scale so when I grind off the top I don't grind into the internal hole. After measuring and doing the math I might have to trim off a little bit of the sleeve and the bolt part so they don't bottom out before they get tight.
I was interested in how you angled the front of your scales. I have not done a very good job of that in the past.
- Joined
- Jan 2, 2011
- Messages
- 1,286
bdmicarta - I did all the work on a 2 x 42" craftsman sander/grinder. It goes really really fast. Thats all I have made my knives and handles with so it takes some practice when you hold the scales on it or even touch the wheels to it. The highest grit I went when contouring the scales was 120 grit. You don't need to go get anything higher than 80 if you don't want to, it just takes some extra elbow grease. The drum sander bit and the little barrels are worth the $15 - $20 you will pay to get the bit and the different grits. Just make sure that you move back and forth and don't create little divots into the tang.
As for how I angled the fronts. I did it all by hand with the flat platten. This picture is close to what I do, but since I don't have anyone else in the shop to take pictures while I actually do the work, it is kind of a little off because I could show only with one hand on the scales and one hand on my phone.
If you have a little table like mine does that angles you could use that and just use a test piece of wood to see how deep it will go into the scales depending on which angle you set it to. If not practice by hand on some scrap wood first. I drew the lines to where I wanted it to stop and then I just angled the scales and followed back and forth the contour of the front of the scales carefully not going over the line or the bottom edge of the scales.
I believe that it is really important to plan out a knife build. Trace the black on the paper. Put in where the bolts/pins will be, and then draw in the front and where the angled front will stop. Go as far as even drawing contour lines and shading it if you have to. Make everything to exact size on the paper. Side views, top views, bottom views all of it. It is some work but it will help you make sure your knife turns out what you wanted it to be compared to just going at it.
The only reason I did not do that for this W.I.P thread, and I probably should have, was because I already knew what I needed to do based on what I have done in the past.
Does that help? The questions are good. Thats what this thread is for.
As for how I angled the fronts. I did it all by hand with the flat platten. This picture is close to what I do, but since I don't have anyone else in the shop to take pictures while I actually do the work, it is kind of a little off because I could show only with one hand on the scales and one hand on my phone.
If you have a little table like mine does that angles you could use that and just use a test piece of wood to see how deep it will go into the scales depending on which angle you set it to. If not practice by hand on some scrap wood first. I drew the lines to where I wanted it to stop and then I just angled the scales and followed back and forth the contour of the front of the scales carefully not going over the line or the bottom edge of the scales.
I believe that it is really important to plan out a knife build. Trace the black on the paper. Put in where the bolts/pins will be, and then draw in the front and where the angled front will stop. Go as far as even drawing contour lines and shading it if you have to. Make everything to exact size on the paper. Side views, top views, bottom views all of it. It is some work but it will help you make sure your knife turns out what you wanted it to be compared to just going at it.
The only reason I did not do that for this W.I.P thread, and I probably should have, was because I already knew what I needed to do based on what I have done in the past.
Does that help? The questions are good. Thats what this thread is for.
Last edited:
- Joined
- Jan 2, 2011
- Messages
- 1,286
bdmicarta - Nice knife by the way. And I have met some makers that don't angle the front of their scales before. I don't agree with it really depending on the design of the knife, but it doesn't have to be done and it is your knife.
- Joined
- Aug 25, 2012
- Messages
- 765
Weatherman:
Awesome blade my friend! You did a killer WIP thread too, very detailed! You've got my head spinning on how i'm going to do my MT18. I've got all the materials coming in over the next few days, so it should be a good time!
Thanks for the great photos
Chuck
Awesome blade my friend! You did a killer WIP thread too, very detailed! You've got my head spinning on how i'm going to do my MT18. I've got all the materials coming in over the next few days, so it should be a good time!
Thanks for the great photos
Chuck
- Joined
- Jan 2, 2011
- Messages
- 1,286
Chuck - no problem. Hope it helps you out so you can do what you want to do to your MT18. Post pics of it!!!
Last edited:
- Joined
- Jan 2, 2011
- Messages
- 1,286
Here is the mule with a leather sheath.
-Brian-
-Brian-
- Joined
- Jan 2, 2011
- Messages
- 1,286
Thanks!
