Has anyone used a Tormek sharpening system?
- Thread starter 1Bigdog
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We have one in the shop. The actual sharpening process goes fairly quickly, but it takes a while to set up the various jigs. It is reasonably fool resistant (though not foolproof) once everything is set up.
It's not my first choice for knife sharpening, except for rough grinding of big kitchen knives. The jigs won't hold small blades and allow a low angle grind. You can sharpen freehand of course, and you'll still need to finish on a finer stone or two because the Tormek wheel is pretty coarse (220 grit) and it's a big step to the compound used on the hone.
It does a real good job on scissors, I did all the costume shop's scissors last year and didn't have any complaints. It also does a fine job on chisels, plane irons and turning tools, provided you hone the edge on a fine stone of some sort after sharpening.
Jet just came out with a cheaper copy (licensed version?) that looks to have the exact same jigs as Tormek. That said, neither one is cheap, but if you have a lot of sharpening, or want the stability and repeatability that the jigs provide, it's worth the money.
Otherwise, you could buy a good set of diamond stones and a couple jigs to sharpen by hand and have money left over.
It's not my first choice for knife sharpening, except for rough grinding of big kitchen knives. The jigs won't hold small blades and allow a low angle grind. You can sharpen freehand of course, and you'll still need to finish on a finer stone or two because the Tormek wheel is pretty coarse (220 grit) and it's a big step to the compound used on the hone.
It does a real good job on scissors, I did all the costume shop's scissors last year and didn't have any complaints. It also does a fine job on chisels, plane irons and turning tools, provided you hone the edge on a fine stone of some sort after sharpening.
Jet just came out with a cheaper copy (licensed version?) that looks to have the exact same jigs as Tormek. That said, neither one is cheap, but if you have a lot of sharpening, or want the stability and repeatability that the jigs provide, it's worth the money.
Otherwise, you could buy a good set of diamond stones and a couple jigs to sharpen by hand and have money left over.
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I’ve been using a Tormek for over a year now and really like it. There is a small learning curve and it is a bit tricky when grinding near the tip. Dressing the wheel with an old Lansky diamond hone gives the wheel a great surface and almost does away with grind lines. I hear people say a Tormek is only good for sharpening lawn mower blades, but I have done my two Sebenzas, Strider PT, Microtech, and many others and all have a better edge than from the factory. A kitchen knife can be done in 2-3 minutes, but I take at least 15-20 for one of my better folders. In the U.S. the Tormek is known as mainly a woodwork tool sharpener, but in Europe it is more regarded as a knife sharpener. There are knife jigs that are sold in Europe that are not readily available here. If you can get your hands on these jigs the Tormek has more potential…
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1Bigdog,
Did you order a dresser yet? The new dresser (TT-50) is not as good as the older style (ADV-50D) when it comes to getting the wheel completely flat from side to side for knife sharpening. Also, a Truing Advancer Tool from Tallow Tree really helps getting the wheel dressed to get the best edge on a knife.
Did you order a dresser yet? The new dresser (TT-50) is not as good as the older style (ADV-50D) when it comes to getting the wheel completely flat from side to side for knife sharpening. Also, a Truing Advancer Tool from Tallow Tree really helps getting the wheel dressed to get the best edge on a knife.
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The Tormek's a great way to sharpen a knife. Here's my suggestions:
Read the FAQ at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/tormekusers/
There's a section in there on sharpening knives... especially if you're going to use the knife jig... how to set it up to get the tip right.
Unless you're doing some major work... grade your stone to '1000' and keep it there. Even most repairs can be done at this grit.
Do very light passes on the stone to remove as much burr as possible. Use the leather to refine and clean up the edge... not for major burr removal.
Learn freehand for knives. One way to do it is to mark the stone in 5 deg. increments, then just move the knife down to the angle you want, keep it parallel, and sharpen it that way (Blade held on the side for photo). Stone turning away from the edge.
I would be interested in what you think of the 4000g wheel... I've always wanted to try one.
Read the FAQ at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/tormekusers/
There's a section in there on sharpening knives... especially if you're going to use the knife jig... how to set it up to get the tip right.
Unless you're doing some major work... grade your stone to '1000' and keep it there. Even most repairs can be done at this grit.
Do very light passes on the stone to remove as much burr as possible. Use the leather to refine and clean up the edge... not for major burr removal.
Learn freehand for knives. One way to do it is to mark the stone in 5 deg. increments, then just move the knife down to the angle you want, keep it parallel, and sharpen it that way (Blade held on the side for photo). Stone turning away from the edge.
I would be interested in what you think of the 4000g wheel... I've always wanted to try one.
If all you are sharpening is knives, the Tormek isn't the best option for really sharp. You can get better results at less cost using the Edge Pro - Pro or Apex. Though the Tormek is more versatile the final results are not as good as the EP.
That being said, can't beat a Tormek for fixing broken tips, working out chips or dings in edges, major re-profiles on large and/or hard knives, bolster reduction, sharpening hoes, scythes, sickles and loppers.
Grade the Tormek stone to 1000 and keep it there. The 220 grading is way too aggressive for almost anything with an edge.
The Tallow Tree Truing Tool Advancer is a MUST have.
The 4000 grit stone available as an after market option does give better edges. It does however wear fast. If all you're using is the Tormek to sharpen it is the way to go. You do need to exercise restraint in trying to force the 4K grit to cut faster or you will wear your stone out unnecessarily. Go light on the pressure, let the stone do the work, and take your time. The 4K grit stone will give a sharper edge than most people are ever used to.
I have never been able to get the art of honing with the leather wheel on the Tormek. I've owned my Tormek for over 3 years and I have practiced and practiced and continue to do so. For me the housing gets in the way for one thing. I've read all the tutorials and watched all the videos and for whatever reason honing on the leather wheel is not an option for me. For me it's hit or miss and I don't like having to back down and try again, and again and again and again.
When I am sharpening a LOT of dead dull knives. I'll use the Tormek to set the relief grind. Then finish on the EP. Where resetting the bevel with a 120 grit stone on the EP may take 20 minutes (or longer at times) this chore can be done in 5 minutes or less with the Tormek. I'll then finish sharpening using MY EP - Pro. Total sharpening time less than 10 minutes from no bevel to 12° relief grind and a 17° final on a 14" HARD kitchen chefs knife. The use of the two tools together gives me the best of both worlds.
For almost all knives using the Tormek, I am better off going free hand rather than using the jigs. The jigs really get in the way at most knife angles I require. I find it much easier to get even tips free hand than with a jig as well. It's quicker with less measuring involved. Jigs, measuring and setting the jig at the right measurement can require 4 hands, well 3 at least it seems. Freehand does require some practice but after a
Yes I love my Tormek. I use it a lot. I could do without it for everything except gouges and large planer blades however.
That being said, can't beat a Tormek for fixing broken tips, working out chips or dings in edges, major re-profiles on large and/or hard knives, bolster reduction, sharpening hoes, scythes, sickles and loppers.
Grade the Tormek stone to 1000 and keep it there. The 220 grading is way too aggressive for almost anything with an edge.
The Tallow Tree Truing Tool Advancer is a MUST have.
The 4000 grit stone available as an after market option does give better edges. It does however wear fast. If all you're using is the Tormek to sharpen it is the way to go. You do need to exercise restraint in trying to force the 4K grit to cut faster or you will wear your stone out unnecessarily. Go light on the pressure, let the stone do the work, and take your time. The 4K grit stone will give a sharper edge than most people are ever used to.
I have never been able to get the art of honing with the leather wheel on the Tormek. I've owned my Tormek for over 3 years and I have practiced and practiced and continue to do so. For me the housing gets in the way for one thing. I've read all the tutorials and watched all the videos and for whatever reason honing on the leather wheel is not an option for me. For me it's hit or miss and I don't like having to back down and try again, and again and again and again.
When I am sharpening a LOT of dead dull knives. I'll use the Tormek to set the relief grind. Then finish on the EP. Where resetting the bevel with a 120 grit stone on the EP may take 20 minutes (or longer at times) this chore can be done in 5 minutes or less with the Tormek. I'll then finish sharpening using MY EP - Pro. Total sharpening time less than 10 minutes from no bevel to 12° relief grind and a 17° final on a 14" HARD kitchen chefs knife. The use of the two tools together gives me the best of both worlds.
For almost all knives using the Tormek, I am better off going free hand rather than using the jigs. The jigs really get in the way at most knife angles I require. I find it much easier to get even tips free hand than with a jig as well. It's quicker with less measuring involved. Jigs, measuring and setting the jig at the right measurement can require 4 hands, well 3 at least it seems. Freehand does require some practice but after a
Yes I love my Tormek. I use it a lot. I could do without it for everything except gouges and large planer blades however.
I have had a TORMEK UNIT for about 3 to 4 years now and I have had good results with it for the most part. There is one thing that I have done which I have wondered why the factory or some aftermarket vendor hasn't done yet. I carved a radius on the right hand side of one of the stones for big blades and recurves. I bought 2 extra Tormek stones at a demonstration that they were having at a trade show close to where I live. The guy demonstating it showed me that you can take a used ( or new) TORMEK grinding stone and freehand with a diamond truing tool to mold/shape a radius on either the left or right side of the stone.
I did that evening when I got home but let me tell you it took quite a bit of time. But let me tell you that for sharpening machetes, Gurkha Kukri knives or just any big bladed or recurve blade it just works like a charm. Also the radius is easy to work with freehand. Now it is like 2 of the guys have already said. The Factory TORMEK stone is not the best stone for really precise finish work or for ultra honed edges like we knife lovers like. But it sure gets them reprofiled so that the finish work is not bad at all. I may look into that 4000 grit stone that they talk about. If my memory serves me well I believe that is available from Japanwoodworker. If I'm wrong I wish one of you guys/gals would set me straight on that.
There are quite a few tricks to pick up using the TORMEK and practice is the key. Great thread Bigdog
I did that evening when I got home but let me tell you it took quite a bit of time. But let me tell you that for sharpening machetes, Gurkha Kukri knives or just any big bladed or recurve blade it just works like a charm. Also the radius is easy to work with freehand. Now it is like 2 of the guys have already said. The Factory TORMEK stone is not the best stone for really precise finish work or for ultra honed edges like we knife lovers like. But it sure gets them reprofiled so that the finish work is not bad at all. I may look into that 4000 grit stone that they talk about. If my memory serves me well I believe that is available from Japanwoodworker. If I'm wrong I wish one of you guys/gals would set me straight on that.
There are quite a few tricks to pick up using the TORMEK and practice is the key. Great thread Bigdog
4000 Grit Stone
Highland Woodworking
http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWCATS&Category=647&Page=4
Highland Woodworking
http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWCATS&Category=647&Page=4
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It is the virgin leather. I use either an 8" paper wheel with white rouge or a 1"x30" leather belt with white rouge to finish the edges after grinding on the Tormek. I've used the Tormek leather wheel a few times dry, but never put any rouge or Tormek compound on it yet. When I was comfortable sharpening knives for others on my Tormek I found hand stropping was too slow (people were dropping off 15-20 knives at a time) so I started using a paper wheel to polish the edge. On my personal knives I use the 1"x30" leather belt pictured below...
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I should have mentioned the other day,,,, credit for the idea in my post comes from here... http://users.ameritech.net/knives/paperinst.htm