Heavy Rust Problem

Joined
Aug 16, 2001
Messages
6
I purchased a sword that was neglected and heavily rusted. I got a lot of the rust off by repeated oiling and wiping, but much remains. There is so much it is hard to push the sword all the way into it's scabbard. The blade is etched with a pattern that can hopefully not be destroyed by overly aggressive rust removal techniques.

Any ideas on what I should do next to get more of this rust off?

TomBrooklyn

P.S. This is my first post. I was checking out a lot of the posts and this seems like a great set of forums.
 
Welcome to the forums.

Sorry to "answer" a question with a question, but what type of sword...European, Japanese, Middle-Eastern, et cetera. Also, is it a new sword or an antique? If it is a modern sword, do you know the maker? Swords in a variety of qualities and values exist, so it makes an impact on how to treat rust.

Shinryû.
 
Hi Tom!
Welcome to BFC and welcome to the swordforum!
:D

You didn't mention what kind of sword you have, whether European or Japanese or other, so I'll talk about European. If your blade is japanese, ignore this, you'd never want to treat it the way you'd treat a western blade.

First, I agree with you that you want to keep the pitting and patina after you have the blade cleaned up.

Start off with some 000 or even 0000 fine steel wool.
(At this point, steel wool is preferable to sand paper, as sandpaper would clog almost immediately and become useless.)

Gently work the rust off with with long smooth motions. DO NOT sit and rub hard at one spot until you get it shiny, just make long smooth strokes from quillion to point until you get it down where you can see some clean metal showing through the rust. You want do treat the blade as a "whole" rather than bit by bit.

After you've gotten the whole blade to more "shine" than rust, you'll want to take a cloth and a small amount of oil to the blade again, to remove any particulate rust from the surface.

Then wipe the blade down until it is as free of oil as you can get it. (Some will remain in the pitted areas, and where rust still remains on the blade.) Then switch to 1000 grit sandpaper and GENTLY begin working the blade with it, again working from quillion block to tip in smooth continuous strokes.

(1000 grit can be found in the Automotive Department at Wal-mart)

Stop every so often, and with the oily rag, wipe the blade down to remove the rust particles you've disloged, and continue gently sanding until you have gotten all of the rust off.

Some areas will be blackened, don't worry about these, and don't try to remove the discolorations. Just remove the rust and leave the discolorations, as this lends a lot of character to an otherwise not especially noteworthy blade.

If this sword is a "sharp" the edges will almost certainly require re-dressing. If you feel confident that you can do this, I advise you start with a NEW flat bastard file and gently re-work the edge until you have a good clean straight edge restored. Then move to a course whetstone, and if applicable (depending on what kind of sword it is) you can move to progressively finer grades of stone until you achieve the desired edge.

If you don't feel comfortable doing this, you may wish to take it to a professional sharpener.

Hope this helps!
 
I had a feeling you would want to know what type of sword this was. I was too anxious to post to wait and find out. The sword is at my shop and I will get it very soon and describe it as I don't know if it has a name on it, though it may.

I don't know if I made it clear, but the blade is etched with a design. I don't know the method of etching but I would guess it was an artistic shot blasting or acid. I'm just grasping at straws here. I think any abrasive such as steel wool or fine sandpaper will wear away the etching. There may be no way to avoid it, but I'm hoping there is. I'll get back to you when I get the sword. Thanks for the help.
-TB

Update: Went to shop 8/16. Sword not there. Starting investigation.
 
Any designs not deeply engraved into the blade will probably be lost simply because of the rust damage, but 000 and 0000 fine steel wool and 1000 grit sandpaper should leave just about any remaining design intact. (Except for the most fragile types of acid etching.)

Remember, repetition is the key to restoration, NOT force.

Easy does it and if you're in a hurry, you're screwing up.
:D
Good luck!
Let us know if you run into any problems or have more questions
 
Tom,

Welcome to the forums.

You should hold off aggressive cleaning until you have had a chance to identify the sword. If the rust is stable (brown), and the sword is a desirable collectible, the value may decrease significantly after cleaning. Take some pictures and post them here, but, do not do anything to remove the existing finish (oil is O.K. but do not work the surface with abrasives).

N2S
 
N2S is absolutely right about this.

Something in Tom's post led me to believe it was a new sword with not a great deal of original value, but looking back now, I can't for the life of me see where I got the idea!

Tom,
My apologies, please don't do anything until you can give us some more info on the sword and we can make some sort of ID.

I totally dropped the ball here.
My mistake.
 
Well, I have not reported back in a long time because the sword has been missing for a long time, and then other distractions like 9/11 took my attention away. I delayed reporting it missing as I hoped to find it for some time but my fears were eventually realized when a complete emptying of the storage area confirmed that it had been stolen, sort of. I am pretty sure of who took it and I am considering it an unspoken barter of sorts. Anyway, I no longer have it, but I hope to aquire some other sword(s) in the future. Thanks for the help.
 
Sorry to hear that Tom, but don't feel like you can't come back until you have a sword!

Stick around, maybe we can help you decide on your next purchase.
;)
 
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