Recommendation? Help me design the perfect small game knife

Once you hold one of these...
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Papa JB said:
Perhaps I am over-engineering this because as several people have said, it doesn't take much to process small game. And it isn't a high volume activity. The designs of boning, fillet, and chef's knives are pretty much "perfected" because a lot of butchers, fisherman, and chefs use those all day every day. My hypothesis is that a small game knife is not a priority for most people so they use whatever is "good enough". For example, I use a Buck 110 because I have it with me and it works fine but I wouldn't say it is ideal. Is a Case Trapper the "ideal" knife or the most convenient knife that works? Are wharnies not common because they are the wrong design for the application or because few people have them in their pocket?

I am not claiming that the characteristics that I described are 'better' than everything else... just wanted to provide my logic to start the conversation. I welcome responses that say "no, you wouldn't want a wharnie because ABC, an XYZ blade profile would be better because...".

It looks like I should get a B&T. In that case, what is the "ideal" B&T (blade length, grind, steel, etc.)?

Darth_Blader suggested a bonebreaker knotch.
Fixed blade would be easier to keep clean than a folder.
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Discussion is good. :thumbsup:

I have a co-worker who is a licensed trapper and avid hunter. He processes a lot of stuff from porcupine to coyotes so i just asked him what he likes for rodent type critters.

"Whatever works for you." That was his initial answer so I prodded more and, like a few of us have already said, he said it is really hard to beat having two or three good pairing knives in a pack.

He said tried those Havalon replaceable blade knives but found they dulled too quick and sometimes felt they were dangerous to change out the blade (cold, wet, etc.).

In general, our agreement was a drop point, thin, comfortable, nimble knife and from there it is really personal preferences.
 
I do think that a lot of hunters use what they have with them whether it be a fixed blade or folder. The potential always exists hunting that you may well need to cut something a bit more robust and not only field dress or skinning activities. So, you go for an in-between design. I do like the Dozier K-20 Canoe for small game hunting along with my regular SAK. Picture below from the Dozier web site. It is very practical and would maintain a good edge a long time. Mine looks a lot like the pictured one with an ironwood handle. I always liked desert ironwood for a practical knife handle.
Dozier K20 Canoe.JPG
As far as what the ultimate small game knife is, who knows? There is a lot of personal preference involved but it would not be a Buck 110.
 
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This is a Dozier knife similar to what you describe. I would not choose it for field dressing or skinning while small game hunting, but it makes a nice edc type knife.
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I will just say this : A.G. Russell Woodswalker. If you want to design and better it, make the blade a tad longer.
Second from the top :
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herisson said:
I will just say this : A.G. Russell Woodswalker. If you want to design and better it, make the blade a tad longer.
Second from the top :
9RCO9Mw.jpg
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Good suggestion. What about the third one from the top, what is that? I would think the straight blade section and jimping would be useful for the ankle/knee bone cuts.
 
Absolutely. And it's strong in the spine (maybe a bit too strong for small game, whatever...). That's an Evans Knife & Tool Companion. Brian Evans is a BF knife maker with a site in the Knife Maker sub forum.
 
Henry Beige said:
How about a muskrat, with two identical California clips. Two blades vitiates edge retention.
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This

Case designed the Muskrat over 100 years ago with this purpose in mind. They had people travel all over the country (but mostly Louisiana) to ask trappers & hunters their input on a pocketable knife for small game.

The Muskrat was born and named for the muskrat trappers in Louisiana

it has a modified clip blade that is thin and somewhat flexible, with spare blade in case the main blade dulls in the field.

plus...it’s just plain cool

this is a popular modification of the Muskrat where the main blade is a modified clip point and the secondary blade is a wharncliffe

View attachment 1365448
 
Ron Sabbagh said:
This

Case designed the Muskrat over 100 years ago with this purpose in mind. They had people travel all over the country (but mostly Louisiana) to ask trappers & hunters their input on a pocketable knife for small game.

The Muskrat was born and named for the muskrat trappers in Louisiana

it has a modified clip blade that is thin and somewhat flexible, with spare blade in case the main blade dulls in the field.

plus...it’s just plain cool

this is a popular modification of the Muskrat where the main blade is a modified clip point and the secondary blade is a wharncliffe

View attachment 1365448
Click to expand...

Aka Hawbaker or improved muskrat. RR made a dandy. Dunno if it is still being made.
 
Papa JB said:
Good suggestion. What about the third one from the top, what is that? I would think the straight blade section and jimping would be useful for the ankle/knee bone cuts.
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If you do decide on something, I hope you come back and let us know what you got and how it is performing for you. :)
 
No (true) Wharncliffe with a straight cutting edge; that point is going to puncture the hide. The sheepsfoot you will also find wanting for skinning. Even though no long sweeping cuts, are involved, you still want a belly on the blade.

The "Spey Blade" of a trapper, or stockman, or a spear point, or a drop point blade would be a good choice, if you don't want a clip point.

The "muskrat" pattern with two clip point blades has also been a popular bird and small game knife for generations. So has a 3~3.5 inch blade paring knife. As others have stated, no reason to "reinvent the wheel" for a Bird and Trout/Small Game knife.

Personally, I like a 2.5~3 inch blade for small game, preferably either a "Spey Blade", or Spear Point, with a handle long enough to go across my palm, for a good grip. While they "look nice" and don't weigh a lot, a stick handle Bird and Trout with a ring on the end like Cold Steel and Marbles make, (others may also make a Bird and Trout of the same basic design, but those are the two that come to my "mind" first) just seems like it would be uncomfortable, and not give a good grip.

When I hunted small game and pheasant, my knife of choice was a sharp 4 inch plus closed stockman. (Could also used as a capeing knife for deer and other large game.)
 
For small game I’ve always used a medium size stockman or a trapper, a 2- 2.5 blade is plenty good for rabbit and squirrel. For medium size game I use mostly the same but step up to a large size trapper 2.7- 3 inch blade or a Buck 112. There’s been a few times I’ve used a 3 inch paring knife. A clip and a spay blade is a good combination though.
 
I have really come to like the Grohmann #3 (pictured) for small game, or the #2 Bird and Trout knife. Great design, the #1, 2, & 3 all melt into your hand and in minutes feel as though it’s your favorite old knife you’ve had for decades.
 

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Lesknife said:
For small game I’ve always used a medium size stockman or a trapper, a 2- 2.5 blade is plenty good for rabbit and squirrel. For medium size game I use mostly the same but step up to a large size trapper 2.7- 3 inch blade or a Buck 112. There’s been a few times I’ve used a 3 inch paring knife. A clip and a spay blade is a good combination though.
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I have done the same (2-blade jack knife), but never a paring knife (at least not yet). I like having an extra blade that is kept sharp or very sharp and used little. It is a back up built into the very same knife rather than two knives. I carried a Schrade 250T for a number of years deer hunting. Worked just fine, but I always had a smaller knife in my pocket if I needed something smaller.

I prefer a pointy knife for skinning something like a furbearer or deer. Poking holes unintentionally was never a problem if you pay attention.
 
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