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Help Needed: Skeletonizing NMFBM tang

Joined
Nov 1, 2011
Messages
558
So I posted a thread a few weeks ago about screw info for a NMFBM. She was a heavy .28 magnum G10 version weighing in at 35 oz when I first got her. I wanted to take some weight off so I started to give her a thinner convex grind, kind of like on my NMSFNO where the convex starts almost at the top. Then I removed the G10 scales and bought some handle hardware for her. Now I want to drill some holes or skeletonize the tang to balance back out the weight I lost regrinding her while at the same time taking more weight off. So I guess my question is How much metal should I remove so I am not weakening the handle too much? I was thinking of mimicking a becker handle by leaving about .3 to .4 inches of steel from the hole to the edge (If that makes sense). Or just drill a few smaller 1/4 inch holes here and there.

So what do yall think? Is this a bad Idea? I really love my BM but at 35 ozs she is too heavy and I really think I can pull this off and bring her down to 29-30 oz which wouldn't be too bad.

I also will be either sending her back in for standard (hopefully linen) Micarta, or making my own scales. And don't worry I will be posting pics when I am done but I want to wait until I'm finished.

Thanks,
Mike
 
Joined
Aug 10, 2011
Messages
2,325
I don't think swiss cheesing the tang under the handle will weaken the knife substantially. I would remove more material from the rear rather than the forward part, where torque would occur.
If you had access to a milling machine you could do a ghetto light brigade treatment, even with the fuller. Now that would be cool, though it would cost a few bucks in bits. Don't forget to keep the infi cool.
I believe paper micarta is the lightest handle material used by busse.
 
Joined
Jan 20, 2008
Messages
297
Drill a small hole with a carbide drill then wire EDM a section out. Or, use a die grinder with a cut off wheel and some grinding wheels to pretty it up.
 
Joined
Feb 19, 2006
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14,088
You might try to contact Ban or norcalblacktail, they may have experience with this.
 
Joined
May 27, 2007
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Someone posted a busse they customized by adding a bunch of holes under the scales. I think he said he used a plasma cutter of some sort.


.
 
Joined
Nov 14, 2011
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665
Good luck drilling holes in hardened and heat treated steel. I learned a long time ago that this is an exercise of futility...not that it can't be done, but you will burn through bits and it is faster to watch the seasons change.
 
Joined
Oct 6, 2012
Messages
393
1. The handle compared with the blade is extremely short, so you wont be able to remove enough material to feel the weight change.
2. It is very complicated to do the right job on it. (get as many holes as even as possible)
3. If you do an even job, you´ll get a better structure than a solid piece of steel.
4. But the most important reason is number 1, you can do the math of how much weight you´ll expect to remove by doing so. Calculationg volume times the density of steel... and you´ll notice, that you wont be removing more than 15-30grams.... Best thing is to buy a Bushwaker mistress.


(V=pi*r2*h)*(7.8gs/cm3)
 

chiral.grolim

Universal Kydex Sheath Extension
Joined
Dec 2, 2008
Messages
6,422
If you REALLY need to take weight out of the handle, you could cut away the last 3rd of the handle metal entirely as well as remove material form the belly & spine, tapering it in like a sword tang, replace with micarta... OR buy a SYKCO 1311 and strip/polish ? Honestly, this sounds like a case of "Ask Busse to design and sell a NMFBM-LB" or buy something else instead...
 
Joined
Nov 1, 2011
Messages
558
I have a 1311 and love it. I bought this NMFBM a while back and am making this my project. I have already started with a dremel tool and it is taking time but I am confident this will work. I am mimicking a Becker handle leaving at least .33 inches from the rectangle holes to the end of the tang. With the handle mod + the regrind and the switching out of the G10 to Micarta. I'm thinking I will loose about 5 oz. 1 or 2 from the regrind, 2 from the handle and 1 oz from the Micarta. Give or take that is.
 
Joined
Nov 1, 2011
Messages
558
The way I am thinking is that being .28 thick, each hole is going to weigh more than a silver dollar at 1oz and infi has got to be more dense than silver. At least that is my thought process. :) and 5 oz is worth it to me. at 29-30 oz would be equal to a .25 NMFBM but with the .28 spine and much better grind geometry.
 
Joined
May 6, 2008
Messages
5,978
A distal taper on the handle portion of the blade is another option.

Edit: Nevermind, I see now there is a dremel involved.
 
Joined
Sep 13, 2010
Messages
1,673
Find your local friendly waterjet guy and let him cut it out if you really want it done. A guy i know with a waterjet says he cuts hardened tool dies. Be aware they can shatter it if they hit it with too much pressure at first.
 
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