Hey Choppers! How hard is your wood? I KNOW mine is hard...

I split and chop mesquite almost daily and my Busse NMFBM thinks it is pine:cool:.
I do not see Desert Ironwood on the list???


:eek:Thanks to the Janka Wood Hardness scale. :thumbup:

Well I always knew that Mesquite was harder than pine, but I did not know it was 525 points harder than Hickory on the Janka scale!!! :eek: It looks like the folks in Brazil have great need for INFI. Maybe Jerry should begin a marketing campaign down there. Or find a Brazilian Skunk. ;)

Anyway, I thought you guys would appreciate the fact that my wood is harder than yours
(in STX).


http://tinytimbers.com/janka.htm

JANKA RATING
WOOD SPECIES (Hardest to Softest)
3684 Brazilian Walnut /Ipe
3220 Ebony
2350 Brazilian Cherry /Jatoba
2345 Mesquite
2200 Santos Mahogany
1940 Cameron
1925 Merbau
1860 Purpleheart
1850 Tigerwood
1820 Hickory and Pecan
1780 Rosewood
1725 African Padauk
1700 Locust
1630 Wenge
1630 Red Pine
1575 Zebrawood
1570 True Pine
1470 Sweet Birch
1450 Hard / Sugar Maple
1390 Kentucky Coffee Tree
1380 Natural Bamboo
1375 Australian Cypress
1360 White Oak
1320 White Ash
1300 American Beech
1290 Northern Red Oak
1280 Caribbean Heart Pine
1260 Yellow Birch
1225 Yellow Heart Pine
1180 Carbonized Bamboo
1136 Cocobolo
1010 American Walnut
1000 Teak
950 American Cherry
950 Soft and Ambrosia Maple
910 Paper Birch
900 Cedar
870 Southern Yellow Pine (Longleaf)
860 American Red Elm
840 Lacewood
790 Cumaru
770 Sycamore
690 S.Yellow Pine (Loblolly & Shortleaf)
660 Douglas Fir
630 Sassafras
590 Larch
540 Chestnut
540 Poplar
500 Hemlock
420 White Pine
410 Basswood
380 Eastern White Pine

Now bust out the choppa's boys... and get to work! :thumbup:
 
Nice chart. I knew Brazilian Walnut "Ipe" was up there. We built a deck out of it and had no doubt it's hard stuff. I find it interesting on the second chart, white pine and eastern white pine are listed with diff. numbers even though they're the same thing.
 
Hey Ank, I think you need to get a board of each type wood, and chop then up seperately. Then we'll have a video of all the different types of wood being chopped up.
For a through wood hardness test with Busse's. :thumbup: :D
 
Hey Ank, I think you need to get a board of each type wood, and chop then up seperately. Then we'll have a video of all the different types of wood being chopped up.
For a through wood hardness test with Busse's. :thumbup: :D

I am taking donations now. :D
 
I got into some oak last weekend while out on a hike with my little man. That stuff was wasn't no match for my FBM, but it sure was some tough crap. A couple times I was thinking to myself that the edge would be tore up but it looked good as new. INFI is awesome stuff. Definately need to work on my choppy chop skills.

SB
 
Neat little thread. In Missouri we have mostly Oak and Hickory. I use my INFI most often on Hickory because that's what we need for BBQ. We do have the osage orange/hedge apple and it's some hard stuff. As you can note by almost all the corner fence posts being made out of it. I don't see cotton wood on the list like they use for pallets, it's not so hard but it's so fibrous it's a pain to chop--making it a tough wood.
 
Good thread :thumbup: Allowing for how many of us do a fair bit of chopping on wood .... having a sticky with either the list of hardnesses or a link to where they are might be appreciated .... puts into perspective what to expect when working with your knife ....
 
Osage orange is BRUTAL stuff. It's the strongest, toughest wood I've ever encountered in the woods. The branches are covered in long, sharp thorns, and the wood is so tough, it's difficult to even snap the thorns off. Trying to chop osage orange feels like chopping into solid iron. :eek: Very cool. There's a lot of it around here.
 
If we are looking at the hardness of woods it might be useful to have an understanding of how they "burn" as well ....

Alder: Poor heat output and short lasting. A low quality firewood. Produces nice charcoal that burn steady and is useful for homemade gunpowder.



Apple: Great fuel that bums slow and steady when dry, with little flame, sparking or spitting. It has a pleasing scent. It is easier to cut green. Great for cooking.



Ash: Considered one of the best burning woods with steady flame and good heat output. It will bum when green, but not as well as when dry. Easily to saw and split.



Beech: Similar to ash, but only burns fair when green. If it has a fault, it may shoot embers out a long ways. It is easy to chop.



Birch: This has good heat output but burns quickly. The smell is also pleasant. It will burn unseasoned. Can cause gum deposits in chimney if used a lot. Rolled up pitch from bark makes a good firestarter and can be peeled from trees without damaging them.



Blackthorn: Burns slowly, with lots of heat and little smoke.



Cedar: This is a great wood that puts out a lot of lasting of heat. It produces a small flame, a nice scent, and lots of crackle and pop. Great splitting wood. Best when dry but small pieces can be burned unseasoned. Good for cooking.



Cherry: A slow burning wood with good heat output. Has a nice scent. Should be seasoned well. Slow to start.



Chestnut: A mediocre fuel that produces a small flame and weak heat output. It also shoots out embers.



Douglas Fir: A poor fuel that produces little flame or heat.



Elder: A mediocre fuel that burns quickly without much heat output and tends to have thick acrid smoke. The Hag Goddess is know to reside in the Elder tree and burning it invites death. Probably best avoided.



Elm: A variable fuel (Dutch elm disease) with a high water content (140%) that may smoke violently and should be dried for two years for best results. You may need faster burning wood to get elm going. A large log set on the fire before bed will burn till morn. Splitting can be difficult and should be done early on.



Eucalyptus: A fast burning wood with a pleasant smell and no spitting. It is full of sap and oils when fresh and can start a chimney fire if burned unseasoned. The stringy wood fiber may be hard to split and one option is to slice it into rings and allow to season and self split. The gum from the tree produces a fresh medicinal smell on burned which may not be the best for cooking with.



Hawthorn: Good firewood. Burns hot and slow.



Hazel: An excellent fast burning fuel but tends to burn up a bit faster than most other hard woods. Allow to season.



Holly: A good firewood that will burn when green, but best if dried a year. It is fast burning with a bright flame but little heat.



Hornbeam: Burns almost as good as beech with a hot slow burning fire.



Horse Chestnut: A low quality firewood with a good flame and heating power but spits a lot.



Laburnum: Completely poisonous tree with acrid smoke that taints food and is best never used.



Larch: Crackly, scented, and fairly good for heat. It needs to be seasoned well and forms an oily soot in chimneys.



Laurel: Produces a brilliant flame.



Lime: A poor quality fuel with dull flame. Good for carving



Maple: A good firewood.



Oak: Oak has a sparse flame and the smoke is acrid if not seasoned for two years. Dry old oak is excellent for heat, burning slowly and steadily until whole log collapses into cigar-like ash. Good cooking wood.



Pear: Burns with good heat, good scent and no spitting. Needs to be seasoned well.



Pine: Bums with a splendid flame, but apt to spit. Needs to be seasoned well and is another oily soot in chimney wood. Smells great and its resinous wood makes great kindling.



Plane: Burns pleasantly, but is apt to throw sparks if very dry.



Plum: Wood provides good heat with a nice aromatic sent.



Poplar: A terrible fuel that doesn't burn well and produces a black choking smoke even when seasoned.



Rowan: A good firewood that burns hot and slow.



Rhododendron: Old thick and tough stems burn well.



Robinia (Acacia): Burns slowly, with good heat, but with acrid smoke.



Spruce: A poor firewood that burns too quickly and with too many sparks.



Sycamore: Burns with a good flame, with moderate heat. Useless green.



Sweet Chestnut: Burns when seasoned but tends to spits continuously and excessively.



Thorn: One of the best firewood. Burns slowly, with great heat and little smoke.



Walnut: Low to good value to burning. It a nice aromatic scent.



Wellingtonia: Poor for use as a firewood.



Willow: A poor fire wood that must be dry to use. Even when seasoned, it burns slowly, with little flame. Apt to spark.



Yew: This burns slowly, with fierce heat. The scent is pleasant. Another carving favorite.

Here is an "old english" poem which is very useful for remembering some of this information .....


Beechwood fires burn bright and clear
If the logs are kept a year
Store your beech for Christmastide
With new holly laid beside
Chestnuts only good they say
If for years tis stayed away
Birch and firwood burn too fast
Blaze too bright and do not last
Flames from larch will shoot up high
Dangerously the sparks will fly
But Ashwood green and Ashwood brown
Are fit for a Queen with a golden crown

Oaken logs, if dry and old
Keep away the winters cold
Poplar gives a bitter smoke
Fills your eyes and makes you choke
Elmwood burns like churchyard mould
Even the very flames burn cold
Hawthorn bakes the sweetest bread
So it is in Ireland said
Applewood will scent the room
Pears wood smells like a flower in bloom
But Ashwood wet and Ashwood dry
A King may warm his slippers by.

Logs to Burn, Logs to burn, Logs to burn,
Logs to save the coal a turn,
Here's a word to make you wise,
When you hear the woodman's cries.


Never heed his usual tale,
That he has good logs for sale,
But read these lines and really learn,
The proper kind of logs to burn.


Oak logs will warm you well,
If they're old and dry.
Larch logs of pine will smell,
But the sparks will fly.


Beech logs for Christmas time,
Yew logs heat well.
"Scotch" logs it is a crime,
For anyone to sell.


Birch logs will burn too fast,
Chestnut scarce at all.
Hawthorn logs are good to last,
If you cut them in the fall.


Holly logs will burn like wax,
You should burn them green,
Elm logs like smouldering flax,
No flame to be seen.


Pear logs and apple logs,
They will scent your room,
Cherry logs across the dogs,
Smell like flowers in bloom


But ash logs, all smooth and grey,
Burn them green or old;
Buy up all that come your way,
They're worth their weight in gold.



(Credit for the above goes to a very knowledgeable guy on one of our UK Bushcraft forums ..... "Maddave" ..... and I doubt he will mind passing the knowledge along )
 
We do have the osage orange/hedge apple and it's some hard stuff. As you can note by almost all the corner fence posts being made out of it.

I think I have read that it is used for fence posts because it has better than average rot resistance.

Regarding the names of the pines, I think there is a lot a regional variation in the common name for the various pine species. Eastern White Pine is native to Maine and Ontario, I suspect it is not the same as the 'white pine' in Georgia.
 
I think I have read that it is used for fence posts because it has better than average rot resistance.

Regarding the names of the pines, I think there is a lot a regional variation in the common name for the various pine species. Eastern White Pine is native to Maine and Ontario, I suspect it is not the same as the 'white pine' in Georgia.

The pines in Maine are much, much harder than those in Georgia. The large pine trees in Maine were once highly-valued, strategic materials for the British Navy, as they were the most suitable wood available for large ship masts.

Georgia pine is a totally different animal, it's very soft and weak. I imagine climate has a lot to do with this.
 
Thats a great bit of knowledge Peter on the burning of different types of woods.
Thanks,:thumbup:
 
We have Mesquite and acacia here.
The chainsaw goes dull very fast on the Acacia, we also call it desert rosewood.
 
The pines in Maine are much, much harder than those in Georgia. The large pine trees in Maine were once highly-valued, strategic materials for the British Navy, as they were the most suitable wood available for large ship masts.

Georgia pine is a totally different animal, it's very soft and weak. I imagine climate has a lot to do with this.

"antique heart pine" (Pinus Palustris) is a crazy thing. it's incredibly sad to consider how limited the species is now.

http://www.turningblanks.net/servlet/the-Antique-Heart-Pine/Categories
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pinus_palustris





.
 
I have a bunch of very well seasoned Mesquite over 10 years old here that I brought back from Texas the last time I was there. It's kept in boxes in the Garage.

I use small pieces for the grill. :D

I use a Chisel and my framing hammer to split it. ;)
 
Thanks for the info.

I can definitely tell a difference between pine, palo verde, oak, redwood, and whatever they used for the old railroad ties in the days before pressure treating. The soft stuff is like butter and the hard stuff gives a real nice workout for me, not so much for the infi.
 
I split and chop mesquite almost daily and my Busse NMFBM thinks it is pine:cool:.
I do not see Desert Ironwood on the list???

THats all I could think of the whole time I was reading....

DIW is one of my favorites and its not called ironwood for no reason:thumbup:
 
http://www.aikiweb.com/weapons/goedkoop1.html

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