Horizontal Sheath for a Buck 112 - WIP

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You're welcome bleev3 and as you can see, with a little time the leather has dyed
evenly, it's part of that patience thing I was talking about earlier, but even so, on
some leather it just never seems to dye evenly, the Wickett & Craig has worked the
best for me so far in this regard.

There will be just a finished photo tonight of the sheath, as it's just trimming the edge
with a knife and sanding it down evenly, same as shots above, there are many photos
in this thread so don't want to duplicate similar ones needlessly. The fitup is nice for this
the curve of the guard as well as the drop down for the blade's point all add to aid in retention.

G2
 
Gary W. Graley said:
I then punch the holes through the added layer of the belt loop,
which ends up being 4 layers of leather along the bottom of the sheath
I use the awl to enlarge two holes just behind the last hole.
This will be so I can do what is called a back stitch, it locks the thread into the sheath.

62.jpg


Here you can see I reached the end and now will go back two places,
stitching back over the previous stitches, the enlarging of the holes helps get that needled back through the leather

63.jpg


I use a swiss army knife scissors to trim the thread very close to the sheath, I use to use a small knife,
but you can get carried away with that, so I recommend using the scissors!

64.jpg


Then I turn the sheath over and pull the back side thread, which will draw that little stub of thread on the top,
down into the sheath, do this VERY carefully, hmm there’s that word again ;)

65.jpg


More to follow tomorrow, final edgeing of the sheath, wax coating and then the packaging to head back to it’s owner :)

G2
Click to expand...

Once you've done this step, do you find it necessary to apply any cement to the back side thread? Or is it locked as is?

Beautiful leather work!

thanks
Craig
 
Thanks Craig,
as to the cement on the thread, nope, never found it to be necessary
the tightness of going back through the hole again also helps keep the
threads snug, with the back stitch, there isn't any pressure there to
try and pull them free, works very well.

G2
 
Last image folks, she'll be boxed up and shipped out tomorrow, I was going to
show how I box them but, unless you guys/gals have the same access to the
foam I have, not much point in doing that, suffice to say, I use layers of foam
that I mark around the knife and sheath, then I carve out that area so the knife/sheath
will rest in that area and lay another section of foam on top of that.
Makes for a nice way for folks to receive their sheath or knife, keeps things
nice and secure for the ride home.

The Leather Balm with Atom wax, sounds serious eh? :) it will tend to make the
overall project just a shade darker when applied.

buck_112.jpg


And the knife with the brass hardware looks good against the medium brown sheath.

Thanks and hope this has inspired you guys/gals to give it a try,
G2
 
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G2,

Absolutely a beautiful sheath! Thanks for taking the time to do this tutorial. You have answered a ton of questions I had on the making of a professional sheath. :thumbup:

AFCOP82
 
Thanks for sharing with us, Gary! Great looking sheath - it compliments the knife perfectly. Very nice photos, too, by the way. :thumbup:
 
Thanks guys, always good to hear of your efforts received well.

I was asked this morning via a PM as to how much a sheath like this would
cost and what would be the time frame to make one.
While each person needs to evaluate what their pricing would be, I ask that
people email me on particulars as it can vary from knife to knife and style of sheath.

Time wise on a sheath like this, I usually quote a weeks time or less once the knife has
reached my hands, not too bad a turnaround but then I am not working this as a day
type job, but at night and on weekends, plus the family needs time as well.

So for the person that posed the question, if you worked on it full time, probably 3 regular days,
you could also be working on other projects during the wait periods as well.
And as I say, you have to work out what your fair pricing would be, for both your time/material and for the customer.

Again, thanks for your good words and hope it sheds some light on how these are made.
G2
 
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Gary's leather sheaths are the best anywhere.

Great to see you in action, G2. Hope you and yours are doing well!

Professor.
 
Good show GG....thanks for sharing your skills...I hope this becomes a sticky thingy, yes??:thumbup:
 
Hey Professor! thanks and hope all is well with you and yours too!
and thanks rayban, as for making it a sticky thingy, that's up to the mods
to decide, after I got into making this it did take a lot of time to gather
those images, process and upload, longer than I figured on :)
but that's ok, and I was pretty happy with most of the images, except for
the first post, those just look strange, I have already ditched the raw images
so I can't re-do them :( limited hard drive space, so once I had the images I
tossed them to save room on the computer, go figure right ;)
G2
 
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Thanx again G2.
That makes it really look easy :)

BTW, what weight leather was that?
 
Excellent tutorial, Gary, thanks a lot. I learnt a lot with your tutorial and I did my first two horizontal sheaths thanks to them.

This is really clear and you show tools better than in the sticky for folders.

Very nice job.
Thanks again.
Best regards.

Pancho
 
Ebbtide said:
Thanx again G2.
That makes it really look easy :)

BTW, what weight leather was that?
Click to expand...

Thanks Ebbtide, the weight used are two thickness
6/7 oz for the top section
7/8 oz for the remainder of the sheath
leather is from Wickett and Craig out of PA

Edited to add: You're very welcome Pancho and welcome to Blade Forums!
G2
 
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Over the years, I find myself in the position of constantly thanking Gary for what he does for this community. We are fortunate to have him with us.
 
Thanks, Gary. Okay. Time to make some tools! I like the punches that you have (made?) for marking the stitching holes!

So much scrap steel, so little time!

Jim L.
 
Jim L. said:
Thanks, Gary. Okay. Time to make some tools! I like the punches that you have (made?) for marking the stitching holes!

So much scrap steel, so little time!

Jim L.
Click to expand...

they are purchased ones, but as you could tell from the two prong, it's been
modified down to two prongs, only because the other prongs became wobbly
I couldn't believe it! but they could be moved by hand back and forth!
So I ground it down and it's become a very handy tool.

G2
 
Gary W. Graley said:
they are purchased ones, but as you could tell from the two prong, it's been
modified down to two prongs, only because the other prongs became wobbly
I couldn't believe it! but they could be moved by hand back and forth!
So I ground it down and it's become a very handy tool.

G2
Click to expand...

Either way, it looks a lot easier than straining my eyes to mark dots 3/16 in. apart then lining up for the drill press to to hole the leather.

That tool would apply well to line up and "scribe" the leather before drilling. :D

Thanks again, Gary!

Jim L.
 
Jim, for the times when I had to use a drill, the preset holes I made also
helped to keep the small drill from wobbling around too, so it's a win win
type of thing to do. On sheaths that had thick welts, my needles barely
cleared through the leather!
G2
 
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