Hey guys, I've found that the highly polished finish on the horn handle of my 18" WWII is a bit slippery, especially with wet hands. Would it be acceptable to use sandpaper to sand it down and make it rougher? If so, what grit and what sanding motion do I use?
Horn handle too slippery...help?
- Thread starter Kmark
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It can be sanded, but make sure it has been treated enough so that it has had a chance at "stress relief", as in the carving thread. I would start with light, one-directional strokes around the handle, in the same direction as the ring and grooves, with 200 grit. If the high polish is important, just tape wrap the handle, and clean the adhesive off when you want it to look pretty again.
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Or you can try holding the handle differently. If you put your thumb on the angled part of the bolster the khuk is less likely to rotate with wet hands.
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I have the same problem with the horn handles which is why I prefer wood.
I fixed mine by using a Scotch-Brite pad, just going in one direction as much as possible. It makes for a much more secure grip and is easily brought back to full polish with the buffer.
Unless the sandpaper was really fine I wouldn't use it. I don't think anyone would want deep scratches in their handles, work knives or not.
I fixed mine by using a Scotch-Brite pad, just going in one direction as much as possible. It makes for a much more secure grip and is easily brought back to full polish with the buffer.
Unless the sandpaper was really fine I wouldn't use it. I don't think anyone would want deep scratches in their handles, work knives or not.
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There's always the sports tape fix. It doesn't look the best but it works.
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Don't know if it'll help to prevent cracking or not but it makes the khukuri easier to hang onto and is easy on the hand. I like the stuff.
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It depends on what the tape is made of - I doubt most tapes would hold moisture for long periods of time. They're usually some sort of foam or leather. Of course, if you get the handle wet, or have very sweaty palms, and live in a humid climate this could be a recipe for disaster - i.e. lots of mildew. You'd probably want to take the wrapping off and treat the horn with lanolin every once in a while.
If you go to a sport store, look for the following stuff:
Tennis racket grip tape
Bike handlebar grip tape
I was in the hardware store yesterday, and saw some of the same stuff, marketed by "Death Stick" - who makes really expensive, aerospace, yuppified hammers for $100 (I think they started off as a government contractor
) Anyway, they had a similar product that was suppose to absorb shock, and it has a nice skull-and-crossbones motif. Might help deter a carjacking
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Thanks for more help.
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Don't know if they still make it, but my favorite bicycle handlebar tape was made of rubber, with beveled edges, I think had it had very tiny bits of cork embedded in it. ("Cinelli cork tape" comes to mind, no guarantees with the old data bank). No messy glue, clingy and stretchy enough to grip the handlebar very well when overlapped. You'll have to tape one end with regular tape, and make sure it doesn't slip on a khuk handle. Very non-slip and shock absorbent. It will add a bit of thickness to the handle though. Never had a problem with it slipping on the handlebars, which is important doing downhill curves at 45-50 mph.
I think the best answer is a bit of simple carving on the handle in stratgic locations. I'll try got get a picture of mine up when I've finished carving it.
EDIT:
Dressings for the horn might cause adhesion problems for any tape. Maybe a wipe with alcohol? Maybe others have experience with this.
I think the best answer is a bit of simple carving on the handle in stratgic locations. I'll try got get a picture of mine up when I've finished carving it.
EDIT:
Dressings for the horn might cause adhesion problems for any tape. Maybe a wipe with alcohol? Maybe others have experience with this.
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Hi
I sanded my BAS horn handle (with extreme care and affection, even the rings). I think it looks much better and it also improves the grip. I put loads of lanolin on my handle and havent been using it for a few days. Ready to take it out for another chopping session.
Brendan
I sanded my BAS horn handle (with extreme care and affection, even the rings). I think it looks much better and it also improves the grip. I put loads of lanolin on my handle and havent been using it for a few days. Ready to take it out for another chopping session.
Brendan
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Brendan how does the lanolin affect the grip since you've sanded the high polish off?
I used Scotch-Brite to rough the finish on my 18" AK horn handle and I really like the satin finish.
I was concerned the grain might not show through, but wanted the more secure grip rather than the pretty, much to my surprise the grain still shows.
I also use the Scotch-Brite on my user blades and I like the satin finish on them as well. It's a good idea to read the FAQs about doing this as you can dull the edge if not properly done.
As to the PS it's also a good idea to cover the edge really well with something that it won't cut through if you're going to do extensive work on the handle.
I have had a little experience with that as well as my Bro Walosi, only he bled a little bit with his experience.
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As a matter of fact, yes. How did you ever guess?
I've done cleaning up of checkering, some checkering on grips and stocks, but NOTHING like the tight curve on the fattest handled khuk I've seen. Add to that the taper of the handle from small and (nearly) round behind the rings to large and lenticular (if that's the proper word). Just laying out the lines with pencil and a plastic (as in bendable) ruler would have me talking gibberish to myself.
I have found that for wood that will stand up to it's use stippling works well and you could use checkering tools to cut the borders to half or 2/3rds depth initially, stipple, and go back afterwards to take the borders to full depth. Using an irregular triangular shaped bit worked the best for me. Then stain the stippled area darker than the unstippled, apply thinned finish, then tape and finish the part left smooth. It does definitely look good and leaves no doubt there's been custom work done to the handle. If you really wanted to go whole hog, the unstippled part could be carved. I'm sitting here looking at my carved handle Kumar Karda, and, well, my eyes are starting to glaze over, my creative juices starting to flow, and humming the Woodchuck cheer ( Gimme a "W", gimme a ) ... but that's using wood.
While I'm sure it could be done, the hardness and slipperiness of horn make me cringe to even think of it. Umm, maybe I should go and take my medication now.
I've done cleaning up of checkering, some checkering on grips and stocks, but NOTHING like the tight curve on the fattest handled khuk I've seen. Add to that the taper of the handle from small and (nearly) round behind the rings to large and lenticular (if that's the proper word). Just laying out the lines with pencil and a plastic (as in bendable) ruler would have me talking gibberish to myself.
I have found that for wood that will stand up to it's use stippling works well and you could use checkering tools to cut the borders to half or 2/3rds depth initially, stipple, and go back afterwards to take the borders to full depth. Using an irregular triangular shaped bit worked the best for me. Then stain the stippled area darker than the unstippled, apply thinned finish, then tape and finish the part left smooth. It does definitely look good and leaves no doubt there's been custom work done to the handle. If you really wanted to go whole hog, the unstippled part could be carved. I'm sitting here looking at my carved handle Kumar Karda, and, well, my eyes are starting to glaze over, my creative juices starting to flow, and humming the Woodchuck cheer ( Gimme a "W", gimme a ) ... but that's using wood.
While I'm sure it could be done, the hardness and slipperiness of horn make me cringe to even think of it. Umm, maybe I should go and take my medication now.
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While I wouldn't call it checkering in the strict sense of the word, I have inscribed some 1/4 inch diamonds on a horn handle. That's plenty to improve the grip. I've not used checkering tools but from what little I've seen of them I agree that using the guides and trying to get full checkering on the complex and tight curves of the handle would really be a challenge. Fortunately, at least to me, the larger, more "rustic" patterns that can be done freehand seem to fit the khukuri better than they would a rifle stock. I used an x-acto knife, a hacksaw blade, and sandpaper. Fine sandpaper and wet sanding with dressing to polish. Maybe not artwork, but it improves the grip without scuffing up the handle.
It's similar to my Chitlangi handle. Don't know if I could do it just by using cutting tools without leaving lots of lighter areas where worked.
Asked once before, no answer, how many lines/inch would be apprpriate for horn if one was tempted to try checkering tools?
It's similar to my Chitlangi handle. Don't know if I could do it just by using cutting tools without leaving lots of lighter areas where worked.
Asked once before, no answer, how many lines/inch would be apprpriate for horn if one was tempted to try checkering tools?
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Sheep are that way.