Horn, Mineral oil & Lanolin

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vcbvcbvcb

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I'm going to do my 1st conditioning on my new AK horn handle. I have gotten several suggestions. The top two are hoof-flex, and mineral oil. I'd have to buy the hoof-flex. I already have mineral oil and and a bottle of liquid lanolin. The handle started soaking in mineral oil last night. I'm thinking about adding a few drops of lanolin to it. I've used lanolin several times in shaving soap, so I know it's very easy to use too much and end up with a sticky mess. I'd use an with an eyedropper add just a little. Any thoughts on lanolin? It's in hoof-flex.

In addition, the AK was dropped by the postal service during shipping and it crushed the end of the box. That dented the top of the brass buttplate which chipped off a piece of horn. Yangdu offered to replace it, which was generous since she didn't break it. However I like the AK a lot and decide to keep it and fix it. I used JB's strongest clear epoxy to glue it back on and coat it. I let it sit for 3 days, then sanded it and dropped in the mineral oil. Will the mineral oil or lanolin loosen the epoxy? Thanks,
 
I soaked mine in mineral oil and added a layer of sticky lanolin to lock it in and then polished it with a cotton cloth.
It works but I haven't done tests to confirm that it's the best method.
 
Your epoxy should be fine since you applied and took care of that prior to mineral oil dip.
 
Just plain ol' Johnson's floor wax works on horn for me for since 1972. Cheap, too. Ain't had a crack yet and some of the horn is actual Rev War stuff.
 
Were you there. You never told me about that one.

That's a fine idea on the Johnson's floor wax.

PS- I apologize but I stole your Nam call sign to use as my work computer junk password.

Just call me Bookie 33. They make us change so often I have to write em down. My next one will be Tooth and and a number, gotta have a number.

Maybe Razorback after that.

Thank you.
 
I was thinking about using Jojoba oil after the mineral oil bath because Jojoba is actually a wax. Is the Johnson's a spray or bottle?
 
vcbvcbvcb said:
And the purpose of a secret password is?
Click to expand...

It's computer passwords to log into different programs. Mostly stuff I hate. They think changing it often confounds hackers or something, which wouldn't be tough since I usually write my passwords on sticky notes and stick on the screen.
Also have to tell the boss's the password so it's not really secret anyhow.

Most Johnson's wax I've seen was liquid but imagine it comes in spray too.

I don't know what Jojoba oil is, never heard of it.

The main thing is hydration and protection or creating a shell to seal in the hydration so it don't dry out.

Mineral oil alone, applied now and then will do the job.
 
i use a variation of hooflex that has keratin (main constituent of horn, hair). seems to work.
ballistol/mineral oil ok,

i used to use pure lanolin, leave on for a few days, wipe off & buff with a clean fuzzy cloth & it is not sticky at all. i do the same with the hooflex clone.
 
The original Johnson's paste wax comes in a yellow can. I've been using the same can for several decades...
 
Yikes, now I have choices 8>). I'm writing this out in case someone else has the same question and reads the post.
1. Ballistol
2. Mineral oil
3. Lanolin
4. Original Johnson's paste wax
5. Original Hoof-Flex cream
6. Tung oil
7. Linseed oil
8. Jojoba oil (really a liquid wax at room temp.) I've used it a lot on the wooden handles of knives, axes, and tomahawks. It's sold at Trader Joe's for about $8.00. It's yellowish and imparts a nice oak look to hickory handles with repeated application. It changed the pale appearance of the handle on my CS trail hawk for the better. It did the same thing for the handle of my Husqvarna 26" axe.
 
You can shorten the list considerable actually. Ballistol and Mineral oil are basically the same thing. Mineral oil is the primary ingredient. Mineral oil in the pharmacy is a bunch cheaper.

I personally don't consider Tung Oil and Linseed oil good options for horn. Its much to thick to effectively hydrate the horn which is the main mission.

Lanolin and Hoof Flex are pretty similar as well either or will work well.
 
Thanks, Bawanna. One of the things I'm trying to figure out is which agents hydrate (technically adds water) and what agents seal it in. In one post someone wrote that hydrating it with water first and then sealing it with oil or wax was the right thing to do. He might have a point. I suspect that h2o from the water-buffalo's blood circulation provides moisture while the horn's with the original owner. Who knows, maybe a gland at the base of the horn also produces an oil that moisturizes the horns as they grow. Then again, maybe nature doesn't provide the best protection. Maybe water buffalo start getting cracks in their horns at a certain age. Our hydration methods could be better than theirs.

I have a spray, skin moisturizer, that I bought as after shave called NaPCA by twin labs. I never used it because I was happy with witch hazel. NaPCA is produced by the skin, and is supposed to draw water out out the air and onto the skin. I thought about using it on the horn, but this is my 1st experience with horn so I decided to go with tried and true suggestions. The is the horn's 3 day in mineral oil. I'm not sure what I'm going to use to seal it.

I got this off a skin care website:
Dry skin is caused by a loss of water in the upper layer of the skin. Emollients/moisturizers work by forming an oily layer on the top of the skin that traps water in the skin. Petrolatum, lanolin, mineral oil and dimethicone are common emollients. Humectants, including glycerin, lecithin, and propylene glycol, draw water into the outer layer of skin. Many products also have ingredients that soften the horny substance (keratin) that holds the top layer of skin cells together (e.g., urea, alpha hydroxy acids such as lactic/citric/glycolic acid, and allantoin)...
 
I'm not sure of my own thoughts on sealing. I tend to lean towards just rehydrating on a regular basis.

Seems like if one seals something you have to get past that seal or remove it to add or rehydrate the horn or wood for that matter.

One reason I never cared for slick shiny synthetic finishes on rifle stock. With an oil finish you can easily fix a ding, raise a dent or whatever it needs, add a little oil and it's like the boo boo never happened.

Sealed finishes require a lot more time and effort.

A knife handle, especially an occasional user might not be nearly as effected and sealing it may protect it for years. Not sure I have enough time left to proper experiment with that.
 
You're absolutely right. I'm not going to put something like a lacquer finish on it, and have to remove it everytime I want to rehydrate. I was talking about a wax or oil as recommended.
 
I personally have done a BLO bath right off the bat, then apply my knife-balm (mineral oil and beeswax mixed) to the handle whenever I put it on the blade. The oil hydrates and the wax both helps protect and holds in the oil. That's what I decided I want to use, after reading countless threads on this topic
 
vcbvcbvcb said:
...Many products also have ingredients that soften the horny substance (keratin) that holds the top layer of skin cells together (e.g., urea, alpha hydroxy acids such as lactic/citric/glycolic acid, and allantoin)...
Click to expand...

Urea?...Hmmm?:D That gives me an idea!
 
What about renaissance wax sold by knife supply houses?
 
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