How do you sharpen your 4?

Discussion in 'Becker Knife & Tool' started by CoolBreeze135, May 5, 2016.

  1. CoolBreeze135

    CoolBreeze135 Gold Member Gold Member

    Oct 23, 2014
    Hey folks. Since I picked up a 4 recently, I've been thinking about how to sharpen it. I have little experience sharpening recurves, but I can get my other knives shaving sharp with a stone and strop. The dramatic shape of the 4 looks like it would make my regular methods difficult. My first thought was to pick up a ceramic rod and give it a try. I'd like to hear your success stories for sharpening those big recurves!

    I've seen CM_rick's video with dowels and emery cloth, but I wanted to hear other ideas as well.

  2. granitestateofmind


    Apr 20, 2013
    Keep your eyes out, I've got a standard WorkSharp going up for sale ;). Ceramic rods, crock sticks (angled dowels covered with sandpaper), convex strops.....they all work. I use my Ken Onion WorkSharp. Though, TBH, I strop on leather with DMT paste. The WS makes it super easy to do the job. Homemade crock sticks are way cheaper....but even the WS standard has a LOT more uses and is a kick ass value IMO. Mostly, have some fun with that Machax!
  3. ThePointyEnd


    Aug 14, 2011
    Any skinny stone works. I've used the ceramic rods to good effect, and the homemade ones are kinda nice because you can make it the length of your sandpaper and get more work done faster. Strop it out on some black compound, and you're good to go. But, all things said; the belly is there to cut with force and mass, any old apex works just fine there. So I spend more time on the recurve portion.
  4. NJBillK

    NJBillK Custom Leather and Fixed Blade modifications.

    Mar 27, 2014
    I have a 1/2" round diamond rod from Lansky and a 1/4" round ceramic rod.

    Diamond for rough work ceramic for touch ups.
  5. CM_Rick


    Jan 10, 2011
  6. axlplayer14


    Dec 20, 2015
    I use lansky turnbox. Works ok. Takes a lot of patience. Like days worth of it....still makes it shaving sharp

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  7. Mack

    Mack Expert Ultracrepidarian Platinum Member

    Aug 19, 2007
    Fine sandpaper around a Pringles can works for me. Richard J taught me this little trick.
  8. Rebel Nimrod

    Rebel Nimrod

    Jan 23, 2014
    Murray Carter said you can use the corner of your sharping stone.
  9. JWL


    Jul 20, 2010
    I use my WorkSharp to put the edge on my beloved Machax, and a round sharpening steel (like you find in a kitchen knife set) to hone the edge when it needs it.
  10. tobiism


    Jun 28, 2013
    HF belt sander to set the convex(GOTTA HAVE CONVEX ON A MACHAX, GO CONVEX IT NOW!!!) and then maintained with a canoe carborundum stone, round ceramic and leather strop
  11. MaximIsayev


    Dec 17, 2014
    Been using Spyderco fine and then ultra-fine ceramic triangle sticks, and giving it a few passes on the strop, works just fine.
  12. CoolBreeze135

    CoolBreeze135 Gold Member Gold Member

    Oct 23, 2014
    I understand why you would want this thing convexed, but I'm really lousy at sharpening convex bevels. I'll leave it flat for now.
  13. DavidCAndersen


    Nov 11, 2013
    Ken Onion Work Sharp with the Blade Grinding Attachment all the way!
  14. neffarious


    Jun 23, 2012
    narrow smith stone in coarse and fine. Narrow DMT EF to finish
  15. cold one

    cold one Gold Member Gold Member

    Jul 23, 2009
    Yep, love the blade grinding attachment!
  16. MaximIsayev


    Dec 17, 2014
    I've been using the old sandpaper + mousepad trick, seems to work quite easily. Start from 220 grit, increase it after a few passes. I did it on my BK24, gone from 220 to 400, then 600, 800, 1000, 1500 and 2000, then strop.
  17. bigghoss


    Jul 27, 2011
    I use a Worksharp on all my large fixedblades because it's quick and easy. Still have to be careful to keep the edge perpendicular to the belt which is trickier with the BK4 and other recurves.
  18. clich


    Apr 19, 2011
    When I had one many moons ago. I convexed it on a 1x30 sander and then added a microbevel with a spyderco sharpmaker. The sharp maker allows you to follow the curve without making weird high and low spots.

    Edit to add: you don't need to convex it for the sharp maker to work. I just did because it made it bite deeper imo
  19. hhmoore

    hhmoore Gold Member Gold Member

    Feb 7, 2014
    Mine came with a pretty good edge, and I don't use it often.
    I acquired extras, courtesy of the BK20.
    When mine gets dull; I'll leave it in a stump somewhere, and open a new one :D

    Then, I'll post a treasure hunt here, with clues & a vague map, so an aspiring Beckerhead can find it.
  20. BeeKayNutCase


    Jan 26, 2015
    On a Unicorns hooves..

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