How durable just to epoxy on handle?

Timbear said:
Wondering if anyone has tried and tested what I call "epoxy pins"? I drill a few extra holes in the tang and into the scales about a 1/16 to an 1/8". That way the epoxy goes into both scales and thru the tang. I still use regular pins ,but seams like the epoxy going thru all 3 pieces at the same place would make a stronger bond than just on the surface of the scales and tang. Or am I waisting my time with an extra step?
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I haven't had any success with that method, it seems like the epoxy sheared off- thing was, at the time I did it, I was using what I now consider an inferior epoxy, and probably not ideal joint prep.
Got to play with one of my first kitchen knives recently when the customer (who still uses it daily) brought it for sharpening. It was chainsaw "damascus" glued with JB Weld and no fasteners...might have put some invisible pins in, those would be short pieces of threaded brass rod. It was still rock solid. Go figure.
JB is pretty amazing stuff.
 
bladsmth said:
Check the alignment and LIGHTLY clamp in place. DO NOT USE HEAVY SPRING CLAMPS! .
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Stacy, what do you use? I've been using those Mondo clothespins, the steel spring clamps from the hardware store, thinking it would be enough less than C clamps to be about right.
What's your preferred clamping system?
Thanks
 
Gough- cool test- thanks for posting! Thanks for this thread guys- answered some questions of my own...
Has anyone used HXTAL polymer adhesive?
 
Bob Loveless in his video said that sandblasting the tang is one of the biggest improvements he incorporated when he made the video.

So not much better authority on that matter.
 
Element, I use those trigger clamps (forgot what they are properly called) and like how they work. About $1.99 on sale at hf. Come in very handy for other things too.

Edit- top left.

IMAG1509_zps40cd5cb2.jpg
 
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jonekatt said:
Thats a great real world test

Where did The bond fail? between the wood and epoxy, or between the steel and epoxy?
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I still have not torn them apart as they are still in the door of the truck finishing this winter cycle, but it appears that the epoxy has seperated from the steel rather than the scale material. I won't know for sure until I eventually destroy them. I plan to start a similar test here shortly using jb weld and some other epoxys to compare the results. The tangs on these only had three holes drilled where pins would be so no real epoxy rivet theory going on on these ones. The steel was some scrap 440 if that makes a difference to anyone.
 
elementfe said:
I haven't had any success with that method, it seems like the epoxy sheared off- thing was, at the time I did it, I was using what I now consider an inferior epoxy, and probably not ideal joint prep.
Got to play with one of my first kitchen knives recently when the customer (who still uses it daily) brought it for sharpening. It was chainsaw "damascus" glued with JB Weld and no fasteners...might have put some invisible pins in, those would be short pieces of threaded brass rod. It was still rock solid. Go figure.
JB is pretty amazing stuff.
Click to expand...

Thx for the response Element!
 
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