How Long Before You Stuck your Target Consistently?

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Mar 28, 2019
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So my wife got me a set of really inexpensive throwing knives for fathers day and I've been throwing for a couple hours a day figuring out optimal distance and technique that works for me. I'm having trouble sticking the target consistently, with most of my attempts ending in 0/3 or 1/3 sticks. I've only ever stuck 3 out of 3 throws twice since I started on Sunday, which I feel is pathetic. I try to throw each time consistently with regards to range, grip, technique, follow through, etc - but with no real observable improvement.

Is this a normal part of learning to throw or am I just bad at this? I hear about children that throw knives and stick them more often than I do so I get the feeling I'm not doing something right.

So, back to the title of the thread - How long did it take you before you became confident in your ability to throw and stick each and every time?
 
What size and weight are your knives?

I find that makes a huge difference.

Heavier/longer is better for ease of throwing and consistency.

I've thrown some of my knives for 30 or so years.

I could stick some of the larger ones consistently out to 65 feet or so.

I also throw tomahawks.
 
I was sticking 3/3 knives from 1/2 spin and 1 spin distances within 1/2 hour. I was using 14" Bowies that weighed about 15 oz. I now throw 16 inch / 18 oz bowies for conventional rotational throwing. I use different knives for no-spin throwing, conventional rotational and mountain man styles.

First - knife size - Larger/heavier knives seem to be easier to stick. I'm talking 12" to 16" at a weight ratio of about 1 oz to the inch. Smaller/shorter and therefore lighter knives don't seem to stick as easily for me.

Second - What is your target medium? The best type of target is an end-grain round or constructed target butt. A 5 to 6 inch thick slice off a tree trunk, or a bunch of 2x4 or 2x6 or 4x4 pieces 5-1/2" long sandwiched in a frame work of 2x6s. The type of wood used affects stick rates. The ideal end-grain is cottonwood rounds. Hard to find. Oak, hickory, ash, pecan, cedar etc should be avoided - hard woods are great - for furniture. Not so much for targets.

Plywood bounces a LOT of knives. ply wood grain is crossed every 1/8", so you get a LOT of resistance to penetration and plywood also has a lot of springiness to it.

Planks arranged vertically, as seen in the "bar hatchet scene" spreading everywhere, works OK for hatchets and can be made to work with knives as well. BUT it is not as forgiving in allowing under/over rotation hits to stick.
 
The knives I'm using are actually pretty small and light. They're not quite kunais, but almost. I know from what I've read and watched on Youtube that kunais are pretty garbage for throwing. They're well balanced though. The knives are 6.5" in length and are 1.7 oz in weight.

I am using plywood but not the traditional kind. It's like large chunks of wood chips that are compressed together. I also am noticing when the knives impact the board they're just hitting on the bladed edge, not the point. I see a lot of totally vertical strikes on the wood. When the knife hits tip first it sticks pretty well despite the plywood.

I don't know I think I just suck.
 
Short/light knives are bo good for learning to throw. Get a few 12 inch plus throwers. Bug difference in learning.

I have shorter knives that I throw well, but even those are more weighty.
 
The knives I'm using are actually pretty small and light. They're not quite kunais, but almost. I know from what I've read and watched on Youtube that kunais are pretty garbage for throwing. They're well balanced though. The knives are 6.5" in length and are 1.7 oz in weight.

I am using plywood but not the traditional kind. It's like large chunks of wood chips that are compressed together. I also am noticing when the knives impact the board they're just hitting on the bladed edge, not the point. I see a lot of totally vertical strikes on the wood. When the knife hits tip first it sticks pretty well despite the plywood.

I don't know I think I just suck.

If you are consistently hitting the target with the edge, point up - move back 6 inches. Rinse and repeat until you find the sweet-spot distance for you with the knife you are currently using. The knife is not having enough time to spin around. You may only need to move 2 or 3 inches.

Conversely, if you are hitting point down, move forward a little - you are too far away and the knife is turning too far before connecting with the target.

Now if you hit with the pommel rather than the point, hold the other end for that distance. :D:rolleyes::D
 
You n red better knives and a better target it learn with.
What you currently have if a recipe for frustration.
 
The knives I'm using are actually pretty small and light. They're not quite kunais, but almost. I know from what I've read and watched on Youtube that kunais are pretty garbage for throwing. They're well balanced though. The knives are 6.5" in length and are 1.7 oz in weight.

I am using plywood but not the traditional kind. It's like large chunks of wood chips that are compressed together. I also am noticing when the knives impact the board they're just hitting on the bladed edge, not the point. I see a lot of totally vertical strikes on the wood. When the knife hits tip first it sticks pretty well despite the plywood.

I don't know I think I just suck.
The problem with analyzing throwing is that it's all over in a second. Get a nice big chunk of styrofoam insulation and use that as a target. Most throws will stick in it, and you will be able to tell by looking at the blade position if you are over or under rotating. Then it's a matter of adjusting your distance or throw until you get the point first. The hardest part to get through one's head at first is that throwing it harder will not make for a better throw.
 
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