How sharp is sharp enough - A personal thing?

Taking narrow slices off the corners is a quick way to make a handful of confetti, like that. :D

And is extremely impressive for anyone who hasn't seen that done.
I recommend finding a YouTube for anyone who hasn't seen it.
Cool stuff.
Though hard on phone books.
 
I sharpen to shaving sharp,but most times most of my edges can whittle hair too,although that's not my primary goal.I like and use toothy edges and find them most useful.
 
I don't have phonebook around. I use my knives to dry shave my face rather than throwaway razors. So it is also my test of sharpness after I try some receipt paper and feeling the bite on my finger tips (not exactly Carter's 3 fingers test)

And is extremely impressive for anyone who hasn't seen that done.
I recommend finding a YouTube for anyone who hasn't seen it.
Cool stuff.
Though hard on phone books.

 
I don't have phonebook around. I use my knives to dry shave my face rather than throwaway razors. So it is also my test of sharpness after I try some receipt paper and feeling the bite on my finger tips (not exactly Carter's 3 fingers test)




Yah lithat !
With a CRK no less.
Is that S30V or S35VN ?
 
I don't usually test my knives. When I use them, they do what they are supposed to do.
That's sharp enough. If they don't do what they are supposed to do, I sharpen them.
Easy. :)
 
I have sliced the corners off phonebooks, at full thickness, as just another fun way to test an edge. Taking narrow slices off the corners is a quick way to make a handful of confetti, like that. :D


David

And is extremely impressive for anyone who hasn't seen that done.
I recommend finding a YouTube for anyone who hasn't seen it.
Cool stuff.
Though hard on phone books.

???
The first time I saw this done in a video several years ago, I thought it looked cool. Back then, I was mostly into Busse knives, so I promptly went and found one of my sharpened prybars and tried it out myself. It was easily done. The "impressiveness" aspect of the act immediately disappeared when I found I could do it with a Busse that had received no special edge sharpening whatsoever besides what it came with from the factory. It's fun to do...once. After that, it's kind of like saying, "and your point is...?"
 
It depends on the knife for me. Some drive me crazy unless I can push cut a rolling paper and shave hair off my leg. Some are just fine as long as they sail through notebook paper. It depends on the intended use as well. I don't want to carry a scalpel if I only need a letter opener. On the other hand, I don't want a spoon if I need a laser. I just usually carry several. Always solves the problem. :)
 
Can it cut what I want with relative ease? Than it's sharp enough. It's totally subjective, if you're cuttin' butter, a single bevel scandi grind is overkill but an obtuse angle on a secondary bevel is perfectly suited for cutting/shearing larger gauge wires like on a TL-29.

A rather ambiguous entry into the annals of Blade Forums first posts. Welcome and here's my ultimate test of sharpness. If your edge is th least bit dull, if you see a flat sot under illuminated magnification, if it can catch a nail it'll never pass. It takes a perfect edge to slice this medium cleanly,

Next time you think your knife is sharp, try to cut one of these cleanly in half, don't cleave it, slice it. Just try it and you'll see what I mean.

Make sure it's one of the better quality ear plugs as they will crush rather than cut if you apply downward pressure to cut instead of relying on the actual sharpness of the blade.

BULK835-500x500.png

Not one of the cheaper more firm ones like this, as they will cut even if the blade is moderately sharp.

s-l1000.jpg


If you've ever worn ear plugs you know the difference. Try it, you'll be surprised at what you previously considered sharp. ;)
 
Has to be on a draw cut, the slightest downward pressure compresses the foam. The foam is very pressure sensitive, kinda reminds me of cuttin' room temp muscle that hasn't set yet. It moves like pudding. ;)
 
Since I sharpen semi-professionally, my edges have to be able to shave arm hair. That is my minimum requirement.
 
Minimum requirement is shaving hair, dry shaving, etc. If I run out of arm hair I still have my legs. Some steels work better a little toothy, some not. I firmly believe that there is no such thing as a knife that is too sharp.
 
Any knife I have, bar none, when brought near to my arm will inspire all the hair on my arm to pull them selves out of my skin and jump to the floor and then run under the sofa where I can't get to 'em. Any thing less is . . simply . . not sharp enough. :cool: :D :cool:
I am going to steal this one an use is some time.
Mike
 
Good question!
In my mind, and I am a traditional knife user: (that means that I whittle in wet fresh wood, butcher fresh meat, butcher fish and so on. I very seldome slice cardboard, nylon, paper, plastic and ao on as city people do).

A knife shall only be as sharp it need to be for its purpouse, not sharper, or duller, then that.

If i shall whittle in soft wood I use flat edges in 18-19 degrees and they work dine and hold dor the job. If I keep the knife and start ro whittle in hard wood the edge need more power - and that destroy the edge fast = the edge get dull fast.

Har wood need higher edge angle, oak for example need 23-24 degree edges to hold.

Low edge angles has less material in and behind the edge = they are more sensitive and you cannot use hard force when using them. Steep edges has more material in the edge = they are not sensitive, you can use more force and use the edge in harder materials.

Two flat and smooth surfaces that meet eachother in a low angle = sharp.

100% flat can only be made with the help of a good sharpening tool.
Smoothness = depends of your choice of sharpeners and hiw fine they are.
Meet eachother =up to you to control
Low angle = the knife edge hold 40 degerees or less totally.

In Scandinavia our traditional edges are around 20 degrees total. In US edges often holds 40 degrees total. A Scandinavian axe holds around 35 degrees.

As you can se, edge angles varius a lot depending on where theyvare used in the world - and to what.

Scandinavian traditional knife knowledge says that you only slice with a knife = we never batoon or chop with knifes - unless the knife is a real chopper = a knife special made for chopping.

In US people chop with their knifes = the edge must be steeper. That also means that the edge penetration skill is not so good compare to a Scandi knife on 20 degrees total.

The knifes purpouse:
If I have a good perfect working hunting knife and I make the edge hair whittling sharp I have change the knifes purpouse from hunting knife to a razor - and I can not use this razor as a hunting knife any more, it is to sharp. It will slice hole in the hud when I skin my game and it will slice hole in the thin hins that protect the meat from flys and other bugs and they can lay eggs in the meat.

My outdoor knifes have 3 degrees convex sphere and the cutting edge holds 26 degrees total. I carry one normal knife with around 10 cm long Scandi blade, and one chopper with 20 cm long blade. During 50 years in the mountains and in the forests they work perfect for me and solve all my problems. During the winter I also have a axe with me.

Thomas
 
Lately my sharpening setup for edc's has been reduced to one single stone: a 1000. That with a little stropping will have me pushcutting phonebook paper, and that is plenty sharp.

I used to be obsessed with a hair whittling edge, and obviously I'll still rep one every now and again, but I love the ease and speed of the 1k+strop.
 
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If I can cleanly pushcut PB paper across the grain repeatedly (not just once or twice!), I am happy. Often a nicely shaving edge can not do that!
 
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