How to clean a DCBB finish?

gk4ever2

gk4ever2

Gold Member
Joined
May 1, 2008
Messages
2,581
I have an INFI ASH1 with the Double Cut Bead Blast (DCBB) finish. As far as I know the knife is unused (except for what appears to be several fine sheath scratches). If you hold the blade at the right angle in the right light, there appears to be a very slight discoloration in parts of the finish – it might just be unevenness or wear in the finish, or maybe the previous owner used a wax or oil on it, I'm not sure. I cleaned it with soapy water (Dawn dish soap), Flitz Matte Finish Cleaner, 91% rubbing alcohol and finally acetone, but the discoloration is still present.

What do you recommend using to clean a DCBB finish to remove any traces of oil, wax or anything else? Thanks!
 
With the DCBB I wouldn’t recommend any type polish. The polish will start to give the gray finish a shine. I’ve read we’re some re-bead blast their knives. I’ve had good results using dawn dish soap and soft tooth brush. Also I’ve used penetrant oils on knives not used for food prep, there I use mineral oils. But balistol, Gibbs, even wd40 have done well cleaning up the surface. As for scratches or rub spots you’ll need to have it re-blasted.
Hope this helps some, I’m sure others will be along to add to this.
 
Toothbrush and white toothpaste , not the gel stuff has worked for me a few times . On one that got some corrosion from getting stained
I bead blasted with fine bead and low pressure it did not bother the logo at all.
 
I have bead blasted a few pieces of INFI and on one there was actually a different color to the steel in one spot. No amount of blasting could make it go away. Not saying that's what you're dealing with, just that it is a possibility.
 
Send it to ME.. :D honestly, you will get it back in a decade....or so..... ;)

I use magic erasers to tidy up blades, the hard part with DC is that you can clean off a stain but leave a polished spot in it's place.
 
SpyderPhreak said:
Pound that thing through some seasoned oak, mesquite, or better yet, some ash. It'll be looking like it should in no time! ;) :D
Click to expand...

Andy the Aussie said:
Send it to ME.. :D honestly, you will get it back in a decade....or so..... ;)

I use magic erasers to tidy up blades, the hard part with DC is that you can clean off a stain but leave a polished spot in it's place.
Click to expand...
Beat the heck out of it or send it to Andy (and he will give it a workout) - why didn't I think of that? :confused:;):D

If anyone knows of something (like a solvent or cleaner) that is good for removing wax and/or oil, let me know. Thanks!
 
Simple Green seem to work...I also like alcohol...a little for the blade a little for me...and repeat... ;)

I still think you should just send it to it's Forever Home :D :D
 
gk4ever2 said:
Beat the heck out of it or send it to Andy (and he will give it a workout) - why didn't I think of that? :confused:;):D

If anyone knows of something (like a solvent or cleaner) that is good for removing wax and/or oil, let me know. Thanks!
Click to expand...

Try dawn dish soap for removing wax and oils. Next would be degreasers, just none alkaline or strong solvent based degreasers. Stick with simple green or a product like S100 total auto/cycle cleaner. It’s citrus based degreaser, I use it all the time on my cars.
I bought a ASH1 and the grips had some dye or something, I used dawn to clean it up.
 
Your finger & a bit of pressure until it's either gone or getting no lighter, followed by a wd-40 wipedown. Make sure you have no particulates on your fingers. If freshly washed, try with a tiny azz bit of mineral oil, like just touch the threads or tip of bottle & rub with grain (edge to spine-spine to edge, yer pref :) ).
 
resinguy said:
? Why not a strong solvent degreaser? It certainly can't hurt the steel, or damage the finish/texture.
Click to expand...

Well the acid based cleaners will stain the metal. Solvent based I just don’t like around the handle scales. Like there’s an old detailer way of stripping polish / wax oils off paint. It’s a 50/50 solution IPA and water. Now I’ve used this method when dialing in buffing paint. But I only use it on a small test area. As using it to much it will eventually have an effect on the paint. So for me using a solvent based cleaner once in awhile is ok, but long term I don’t know what effect it would have on handle scales.
When cleaning I guess for me I like to start with the least aggressive product and work up if needed.
 
Agree on the acid. The OP didn't specify the handle material, but both canvas micarta and G10 are quite solvent resistant, as any number of stripper threads will attest to.
 
duramax said:
... So for me using a solvent based cleaner once in awhile is ok, but long term I don’t know what effect it would have on handle scales.
When cleaning I guess for me I like to start with the least aggressive product and work up if needed.
Click to expand...

resinguy said:
Agree on the acid. The OP didn't specify the handle material, but both canvas micarta and G10 are quite solvent resistant, as any number of stripper threads will attest to.
Click to expand...
I agree with starting with the least aggressive product, which is why I first used dish soap and water, then Flitz Matte Finish Cleaner (seems to be water-based), 91% rubbing alcohol, and finally acetone.

I was not sure how well G-10 would hold up to stronger solvents. I did accidentally get a little acetone on the G-10 but it did not seem to hurt the handle. I thought I heard that some type of glue is applied to help hold the grip panels in place; if this is true, acetone and other solvents might dissolve the glue.
 
Wow if acetone didn’t touch the g10 don’t know what would. Acetone is some strong strong stuff !!!

How are you making out with cleaning it up ? Has anything worked yet ?
 
duramax said:
Wow if acetone didn’t touch the g10 don’t know what would. Acetone is some strong strong stuff !!!

How are you making out with cleaning it up ? Has anything worked yet ?
Click to expand...
Before the cleaning, I thought I saw some very light streaks of wax, which seem to be gone now. All that remains is the very slight "discoloration" (for lack of a better word); I wonder if some wax (or something else) is still left in the pores of the DCBB finish. I'm going try another cleaner, maybe something suitable for stripping wax from bare metal.

Yes, acetone is fairly strong – it will dissolve superglue! :eek: So, I do not recommend using acetone to clean grips, and especially not on a coated blade (I'm guessing it would dissolve the coating).

For anyone not familiar with 91% rubbing alcohol and/or acetone, both are highly flammable!
 
Last edited:
Balsamic vinegar cleans em up great. Just gotta be sure to soak it for a while. Afterwards, a vicious beating thru some nail encrusted old hardwood fencepost will take care of anything that didn't come off with the vinegar.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top