How to: rehydrate wood and horn handles

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Feb 21, 2009
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I've seen some discussion lately about handle shrinkage, especially when it comes to chiruwa handles. I live in Las Vegas, so believe me, my handles shrink and I have to deal with a the rather uncomfortable feeling of the tang becoming proud of the handle slabs. I tried soaking in all kinds of oils, either completely submerged or doing thin layers for weeks on end, but nothing really plumped them up.

Then I found this thread (http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/555343-Handle-Rehydration-Before-After) in the Custom & Handmade forum and came up with my own solution. In summary, what the OP did was he took a bucket of water, put a vented/louvered shelf over the bucket, put his knives on that shelf, then put an oversized plexiglass box (I'm sure any impermeable box will do) so that it overhung the bucket. This rehydration chamber allowed water to naturally evaporate and flow through with ambient air slowly rehydrating the horn handle.

The OP in that thread says it took him 74 days to rehydrate the horn handle so that everything was flush. Taking the sample principle, I decided to speed it up. I threw a few of my khuks with shrunken handles in a cooler with a couple of glasses of water (set carefully into the cooler, not poured all over the knives!) and set it in the garage in the summer. You better believe the inside of the cooler was hot and humid, but it took less than a week for my wood handles to plump up back to where they fit flush (and a couple of them even plumper than that!). But here is where you can learn from my mistakes: I totally left them alone for a week so I was anticipating surface rust, even after applying a fine layer of mineral oil. But there were a couple (a beautiful WW2 and my AK Bowie) that had extensive, tiny rust pitting all over the blades!

All had some pitting, but thankfully most of them buffed out easily with a dremel buffing wheel attachment. But for some reason, my WW2 and AK Bowie were boned. I decided there was no way of saving those so I turned to the dark side and forced as dark a patina as possible. Now they look pretty evil and primal, as if forged by orcs, and are now my must used knives since I don't have to worry about marring their beautiful finishes.

Soooo, if you try the same trick, do a couple of things:

1. Cover your blade, bolster and all exposed metal fittings with a better preservative than mineral oil. Maybe try cosmoline. That should hold up to the humidity if you layer it on thick enough, but I've never tried that so I could be completely wrong.

2. Check your blades every day! If you start seeing rust getting through your metal preservative, address it immediately before it starts to pit.

3. Maybe do this indoors instead of in the summer heat. It might take a bit longer, but I think the very warm, wet air really put the rust into turbo drive.

4. After achieving the level of plumpness you desire, refinish your handles with something to lock in the moisture. I used Waterlox, which gave my handles a very shiny, beautiful finish. Since then, my handles haven't shrunk back at all!

If anyone has any suggestions, please feel free to share. I totally just did this as a last ditch effort and it worked, with those aforementioned caveats of course. Good luck!
 
I know a fella that stores his spare pistol handles in the toilet tank so they don't dry out and crack.
As you mention, this would probably not work well with metal attached due to the constant moisture but it does keep moisture in the air.
 
Did the handles develop any cracks? That might be one worry depending on how fast the expansion occurs.
 
I tend to believe the horn and wood both need some water to rehydrate rather than oil alone but being carbon steel we cant just throw them in a boiling pot of water and leave them there. I have a Chinese chopping block I bought recently and shortly after I bought it cracks began to appear even after plenty of oiling. No matter how much I oiled it the cracks would not go away. The company rep told me to throw it in a bath of hot water and all the cracks would magically disappear. She was absolutely right. Completely gone. I cleaned and oiled it up again and eventually the cracks began to reappear. It required water to close the cracks. I think what needs to happen is you need to hydrate the material with something water soluble and lock in the shape with some kind of other material that wont dry out once the water is gone (stabilizing in place so to speak) A chopping block needs to be something you don't mind eating off of but our knives not so. Thanks for the Waterlox idea. Sounds like something ill look into:thumbup:
 
Stem wood is kind of designed to transport and store water thus it makes sense that it absorbs that liquid best.

Oil is more viscous than water which can be solved (lol) with mineral spirits or heating it.
Still even if less viscous it might behave differently with the whole capillary thing and stuff.

Would you be willing to throw your chopping block into a pot of hot oil for a cool experiment?
 
Moogoo, interesting concept. For wood, I haven't found the perfect solution. I've noticed Dhar seems to shrink horribly, while Neem stays perfect with no care. Satisaal is in the middle, but pretty good. But, I've had to shave steel on chiruwa handles, so your idea may be just the ticket. For regular horn maintenance, I'm sold on soaking horn in mineral oil. I acquired this beautiful WWII khukuri, but the handle looked horrible.

Before:
RittenberryMkII.jpg


After soaking for at least 24 hours in mineral oil (plus a little steel wool on the metal). I filled a mayo jar with cheap Walgreen mineral oil and placed the khuk handle down.
PPMkIIkhuks002.jpg


That's not lighting. The 60+ year old horn looks brand new! I can also keep using the same oil over and over.
 
Stem wood is kind of designed to transport and store water thus it makes sense that it absorbs that liquid best.

Oil is more viscous than water which can be solved (lol) with mineral spirits or heating it.
Still even if less viscous it might behave differently with the whole capillary thing and stuff.

Would you be willing to throw your chopping block into a pot of hot oil for a cool experiment?
Sure Jens... next time I fry some shrimp;)

Its in a black plastic bag soaking in mineral oil now but not heated. I contemplated adding water then throwing it in the hot sun. Ill check it today and see what it looks like. If cracks are still there then ill pour some boiling water in the bag and let it soak. I dont think I have a pot big enough to submerge it in hot oil. Its 16" diameter.
 
You could cover the blade with masking tape or cover in bearing grease and wrap it with an ace bandage.
 
My horns have been soaking in the oil for over a week, look nice & black & shiny, no change in dimensions.
The two wood Chiruwa handles I've just filed as needed.

I'm concerned about rust if left in a humid closed device & appreciate the technical advice but think I'll just locate some Hooflex & break out the file again if it doesn't help on the one horn Chiruwa.
I'll mess up the horn, but maybe I can find a fine enough grit sandpaper to at least render the scale surfaces uniform & acceptable in appearance.
Denis
 
Moogoogaidan, thank you for the advice. I'd still fear rust developing under the scales, on the full-tang knives at least. But very interesting, to say the least.
 
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