I hate D2 steel - it's overrated and rusts like crazy!!! Take my Ontario...

I've had no problems with my older Rat 1 or Maserin slip joint in D2.

Good news, plenty of alternatives out there.
 
Seems like a little bit dramatic statement but I don’t care about D2 either. PITA to sharpen. Maybe I need diamonds. Maybe I don’t.
 
slyraven said:
How do you stop a knife from rusting if its prone to rust?
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Keep a coating of oil on it, (I believe some are even food-safe, but check first), and take it apart once in a while to clean everything out. If you put a coating of oil on your D2 blades weekly you should be good.
Unless you work on/at the ocean, that might be totally different.
 
shane45-1911 said:
Says the guy who states "The best fixed blade edc knife is the ESEE Xancudo in S35VN steel."

I take everything you say with a grain of salt, as all your posts are borderline trolling.

There is nothing wrong with D2 when heat treated correctly and with suitable edge geometry. In fact, my opinion is that quality D2 is actually under-rated.
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Yep.

Any thread that's titled 'I hate......" Is trolling.

Waste of time in my opinion.
 
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The opposite of love is indifference. I don't hate D2. I have some knives that I really like that are in D2. I wouldn't absolutely avoid it if a knife I liked were only offered in it. That being said, I personally have ZERO interest in purchasing a knife in D2 steel at this point or in the foreseeable future.

I've used D2 folders for years in Florida, in the heat and humidity, in the woods, doing farm work; with little thought given to rust, and never had a problem. However I've also had D2 show rust spots on a fixed blade that I took pretty good care of out here in a less humid climate.

It really all boils down to personal preferences for your intended use. I know many prefer carbon steels for outdoor knives, and obviously they served past generations just fine. For my uses, right now, I simply prefer stainless. I don't mind maintenance, in fact I see it as an enjoyable part of ownership. However, I personally want a knife I can cut an apple with, rinse off in the creek, wipe off on my pants leg, and put away; oil be damned. YMMV.
 
No problems here with D2 other than certain knives I have in it are a bitch to sharpen. Once they’re sharp though, they stay sharp a good long while. Also zero problems with rust and my sweat is like battery acid.

I highly suspect OP is trolling. It’s evident from his other posts. Might need a Lasador IP check…
 
It is possible that you just got a bad batch. The edge could be cooked on a belt sharperner. Or a straight up fake.

That said, 9 out of 10 times in situations like this it is just preference and end user error.

If you are pushing both knives through thousands of yards of corrugated cardboard, well that is going to dull even the best steels out there. The difference in AUS8 and D2 may be that AUS8 is simply easier to sharpen/responds better to simple sharpening or stropping solutions like chromium oxide or soft whet stones.

I have a lot of respect for my old AUS 8 knife and it still sits by the back door for some cardboard work for this very reason. I can break down all the boxes known to man and come back inside and get a shaving edge with half a minute of ceramic and stropping. Use case and sharpening ease can be as important as edge retention.
 
My K390 Dfly is my only carbon steel to be totally "protected", when that grey patina forms, anything is a lot harder to rust.

Also because of the way DLC is between the steel and knife, rust IS way harder to form. I don't think blk RAT D2 is DLC though.
1075(uncoated, I do anything with coated) from Ontario is the worst to me - had a horror experience with it.
Other than that.... 1095, K390, Rex 45... all good stuff.

Cruwear is a pretty "stainless" tool stool.

BTW: I like AUS8a fine.
 
mmyron1 said:
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Both of these are D2. Neither if them have any rust on them. Both are well over 15 years old and carried faithfully and daily. Can D2 rust, absolutely. But these have not.
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Hey on that sprint run original Paramilitary... I used to have that same one and remember it being a hot one that sold quick. I carried mine a lot as kind of my main outdoors folder when hiking and stuff and really liked it but that knife has been crossing my mind here and there lately and I can't remember, is it D2 or CPM-D2? Thanks.
 
Heffeb said:
I hate D2 steel - it's overrated and rusts like crazy!!! I'll tell you something else, too. I've got several Ontario Rat I and II knives in both D2 and AUS8 steel, and the AUS8 outperformed the D2 in every single category, including edge retention!!!

It is what it is...
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My AUS8 knives hold an edge slightly better than aluminum flashing. My Doziers in D2 have long been the gold standard that I measured other knives against when I was testing edges 15 years ago. YMMV.
 
LimpCroissant said:
Hey on that sprint run original Paramilitary... I used to have that same one and remember it being a hot one that sold quick. I carried mine a lot as kind of my main outdoors folder when hiking and stuff and really liked it but that knife has been crossing my mind here and there lately and I can't remember, is it D2 or CPM-D2? Thanks.
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CPM D2. I carried it daily for almost 16 years with no issues and only sent it in to get some stripped screws replaced.
 
My suspicion is that the op must not of cleaned his d2 blade and let it set with a layer of salty drippings after a bbq or similar lack of care.

I have a couple of d2 blades and haven’t had any rusting issues at all. But, I clean them right after using them. Like most any metal tool, just keeping them clean is more important than oiling. But I still keep a film of oil on my knives especially before putting them in the drawer.

Even 420hc will rust if left with dirty water left on it and especially if it has salt or vocs in the water. So if you rinse, clean and wipe them dry you will be a step ahead of rust or corrosion.
 
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