I need some drill bits. Mine are junk. What’s your choice?

[weo]

FYI - from a machinist perspective (FYI - I'm not a 'real' machinist, I just play one in real life), to maximize life of all metal shop tools, you need to match speeds and feeds for the machine, task and stock size. For mild or annealed steels, a good starting point for drill press RPM is 240/bit size. So for a 1/2" hole, 480 RPM should be good.
Also, don't forget that cutting fluid is there for cooling the bit, (not to lubricate the bit, like I hear so often. Don't forget, we are trying to get the bit to cut, not slide) so use only as much as needed. For 1/2" holes or larger, I often peck drill, allowing the bit to cool in the air while drilling. If you pay attention, you don't even need cutting fluid (saves a lot on clean up).

 

[Michael Black]

I’m going to slow it down. Drill press needs two new belts. I’ll get them today and be back in business.


Backyard, I need to learn how to do this. I’ve not met a single person who could do this correctly. Bet YouTube has a few videos. I’ll be practicing on some of my bad bits.

This Old Tony on youtube has an excellent video on the topic.

 

[Contender Machine]

FYI - from a machinist perspective (FYI - I'm not a 'real' machinist, I just play one in real life), to maximize life of all metal shop tools, you need to match speeds and feeds for the machine, task and stock size. For mild or annealed steels, a good starting point for drill press RPM is 240/bit size. So for a 1/2" hole, 480 RPM should be good.
Also, don't forget that cutting fluid is there for cooling the bit, (not to lubricate the bit, like I hear so often. Don't forget, we are trying to get the bit to cut, not slide) so use only as much as needed. For 1/2" holes or larger, I often peck drill, allowing the bit to cool in the air while drilling. If you pay attention, you don't even need cutting fluid (saves a lot on clean up).

Not to get off subject here but cutting fluid does 3 things: cools the tool and the work piece, lubricates the tool and carry’s away chips.

Depending on the machining being done, one or two of these may be the goal of applying cutting fluid. Form tapping, for instance, makes no chips and NEEDS some heat to get the material to flow so the cutting fluid is mainly used to lubricate the tap and keep it from sticking to the material. Drills also benefit from lubrication to prevent build up on the cutting edge though the cutting fluid used is to cool the drill and work piece more than to lubricate. Cooling the drill also helps to prevent build up on the cutting edge. That’s why flood coolant, in drilling, is far better than spraying cutting oil from a bottle and can allow 2 or 3 times the rpm. But you have to use what you’ve got.

So lubrication is very important in cutting tools. Thats why high end coatings on drills and end mills are so beneficial.

 

[Backyard]

Soapy water in a spray bottle for drilling works well too and is easier to clean up over oil. I noticed it seems to work better than oil on stainless for me

 

[Horsewright]

Drill pilot holes first. I use a #30.

Then a step drill to punch them open:

I keep a small bucket of water that I dip each knife in before drilling. One dip for the #30 and one dip for the step drill.

Repeat 103 times.

The step drill leaves a lil burr here and there which I knock off on a flat disc (Cowboy Surface Grinding).

Marked and ready to stamp prior to heat treat.

I started with a fresh #30 and a used step drill. Both have life in em yet.

 

[Contender Machine]

A great example of a good set up. Cutting tools can remove a lot of material when ran properly.

 

[Horsewright]

A great example of a good set up. Cutting tools can remove a lot of material when ran properly.

Thank you sir.

 

[12345678910]

I’m going to slow it down. Drill press needs two new belts. I’ll get them today and be back in business.


Backyard, I need to learn how to do this. I’ve not met a single person who could do this correctly. Bet YouTube has a few videos. I’ll be practicing on some of my bad bits.

That's a good instructional

3x set

Practice on a Goldilocks bit, not too large, not too small - say 3/8" or so.
Large enough to see what you're doing, small enough to fit the width of the wheel.
1/8 and smaller are hard to do.

https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/61X6sgc64BL._SL1000_.jpg

These are pricey, but great for checking.
Verify the angle against a light in the background.
Verify that both lips are the same length - the point is in the centre. That's why that gauge is graduated.

PEC is a made in usa reputable brand too.


I know how to do it, but reading glasses are in play now.
Even if you use a machine sharpener, you still need to be able to hand sharpen to correct a broken or badly damaged bit.

Re the brand ?
hardware stores sell carbon steel taps and drills to max profits even though High Speed Steel has been around for 125 years.
The full sets from Princess / Harbour Freight are this


off topic, but my pet peeve all hardware store taps are carbon steel, "Plug" profile that you can't create a new hole with.
Go to an MRO supplier.
Maintenance, Repair, Operations...
McMaster Carr if you're in the USA

For ease of access, Shars is a good retailer
I like the Black and Gold line.
I can get it locally at an industrial supplier; it's a rip off of the Norseman brand


There are no "titanium" drill bits, that refers to the gold coloured low friction coatings, titanium nitride


Watch your speed.
Too fast will burn, too slow is fine.

Test your work in mild steel.
You should be getting two identical even chips.
If one side cuts more than the other , the hole is oversized.