improve grip on stainless police?

shootist16

shootist16

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I got a stainless Police model that I won on an auction. Another officer I work with has one but it seems plenty slick. After reading the review of the Kasper AFCK I was considering cutting out and placing some kind of grip tape on the handle. Maybe some kind of textured rubber. What are your opinions on this? Would it work? Would it look really terrible? Has anyone found another way to improve grip? Please dont say buy the g-10 model. Of all the stainless Spyderco models I like the Native the best. The shape of the handle makes it less likely to slip.

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-Dennis-


 
Your best bet is to have some kind of design or pattern engraved on the handle. You don't have to go nuts with the design, a simple series of checkered strips series will suffice and would be inexpensive. Go with 20lpi (lines per inch) for maximum texture. Grip tape is temporary and would wear off, leaving a gummy mess.

EK
 
OK can anyone recommend an engraver?

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-Dennis-


 
I've known a couple of people who have put grip tape (ie skateboard tape) on their Police models. One of those people carries theirs in pocket with no clip and probably has for at least 7 years. The grip tape will come off eventually but it takes a lot. Think about how tough skate boards are. If it does wear off then it is a simple and inexpensive thing to replace. I've been wanting to try some Pachmyr Pac-skin, which is available at some gun stores.

Just my .02
Paul
 
Greetings all. First: the liner of your pants/jacket/ vests pockets will wear out quicker than the grip tape! I use enough to cover the curved portioned of my clips only so as to prevent premature wear of your covering garment. I' ll also add a bit at the top most area of the scales facing towards the body in a tip down carry folder. This will at least maximize draw speed if that is a consideration.

Secondly: try some of that non slip,textured, grey colored rubber adhesive back stuff for womens shoe soles available at shoe accessory areas. They are less abrasive than friction tape but still afford a more secure grip than a polished steel scale.

And finally, my personal recommendation: is to have it CHECKERED. I' ve had checkering done on some of my fixed blade micarta/ G10 scales. What a world of difference in draw speed, security, comfort and esthetics! Please contact:

Julie Marx of CHECKERMARX@compuserve.com

Fellow forumite BCaffrey had his Spyderco Native done and provided a pix from a past thread.(search function?) Please let her know as to your source!!

L8r,
Nakano

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"To earn a million is easy, a real friend is not."
 
Funny you should ask this, as I just finished adding some grip surfaces to a steel Spydie at a forumite's request. They include notches in the "hump" and forefinger areas, and diagonal grooves across the handle. The notches make a big difference to me, and eliminate the perpetual fear I have with most metal Spydies of slipping up the narrow "neck" and onto the blade. The grooving on the handle is less effective, I think, but very striking. This is a small knife, though, and I think the grooving would be more effective on something you could really wrap your hand around instead of holding it in the crook of your fingers.

I actually have no steel-handled Spydies in my collection. After seeing how this mod worked out, this has gone from a minor concern to an urgent need. I find myself looking at Endura IIs (but what lousy steel!) or a stainless Police (but I have G-10 and Ti already). I dunno, I just want a knife of my own like this now!

-Drew
 
'nuff said! thanx, Jackal

EK

[This message has been edited by ekaagan (edited 16 August 1999).]
 
All you have to do to the handle is bead blast it. I have done this at work on mine and a leo friend of mine,it works realy well.Most any repair shop that works on engines has a bead blaster(not sand blaster)and you should find one that will do it for you at a very small charge,if any.
 
I'll second the suggestion of decorative engraving of course. The decorative bright cut engraving not only improves the grip, but also makes a weapon into a socially acceptable artwork. Using the same engraving pattern, I can either polish to a bright and shiny, albeit slick, jewel-like piece, or leave a 220 grit sanding on the flat, with just the deep engraving bright and shiny for contrast(like the pic posted in the decorated thread); all of the deep, multi-angled cuts, with the rough top edge, provide a very positive grip to both sides.
Prices for the negraving on the stainless spydercos were posted after many requests in the Automatic Forum: Bored with your auto? thread.

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engraver@tznet.com
www.angelfire.com/wi/brooksburt
 
I'm also going to check into tools for checkering and lining. Checkering & enraving...the possiblities are endless..so little time!

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engraver@tznet.com
www.angelfire.com/wi/brooksburt
 
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