Inspiration for metal choice

kgd

Joined
Feb 28, 2007
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I'm posting this thread to ask Koyote what moved him to choose the steels he chooses to use. Thus far I have L6 in my big traditional leuku and 15N20 in my Mills Pattern Skinner.

Admittedly, even though I only received the skinner recently, it gets more use, particularly int he kitchen because it is just so great at that task. I've really come to love 15N20 as a steel. It takes a fine edge and I don't know if it is supposed to be like this or not, but I find it more rust resistant than my 1095 blades. It takes a patina, but I've yet to see any rust fuzz on the blade. The Bushcrafter Leuku passaround thread is 10+ pages of putting the 15N20 through hell and back and the blade just seems to come back asking for more. All that in 0.095", when most makers seem to go at 0.125" thickness as the minimum.

The L6 seems pretty tough. I did produce a couple of chips in it, but that was hitting a nail in wood. Its not hard to sharpen and while using it for chopping wood, it seems to hold its edge about as good as my Scrapyard SOD (SR77), but not quite as good as my Ranger RD9 (5160). Of course, these are my "user" perceptions not based on charts or exacting tests. In Ed Fowler's thread posted in W&SS, one member commented that L6 was used in ice-augers because the metal is considered to be good in cold conditions. Of course, one has to always temper such arguments in terms of the heat treat applied.

Before I knew of Christof, and began patronizing his shop, I really didn't know anything about 15N20 or L6. You just hardly seem to see these steels being used elsewhere.

So my question is to Christof is. How did you come about deciding to favor these steels in your knives? What characteristics do you like about them? Why do you seem to be one of the minority using the steels?

Thanks - the last question might sound like its a challenge but I only ask it in the context that your choices seem to be a best kept secret!

ken
 
Good question KGD. I've got a L6 blade from Koyote as well as a 15N20--they both seem to work well, but the 15N20 seems to take an edge better. That may be just my perception of course. And I really like my L6 knife.

Truth be told, I'm not to fussy about my steel any more. A nice tool steel with good heat treatment generally turns out to be tough, durable, and sharp. I've given up on finding the "Holy Grail" of steel, and just sharpen a knife when it needs it.
 
15N20, L6, 5160, and 8670M are the main steels I use. I've done a little O1, and do some 1084.

Mostly the steels are selected from a type of work- the L6, 15N20 and 8670M are hard wearing tough tooling steels- bandsaw blades and large impact edged tools. 5160 is also known as a very tough and durable steel for heavy whack-a-usage.

My heat treat methods have something to do with the choices, as well. As does my choice of thinner blades. 15N20 is generally not available in 1/8 or 3/16 thicknesses. So it often doesn't get used, whether it would be a good choice or not- with ground knives.

Note that 15N20 is used extensively in damascus and when makers do a 15n20/1060 type damascus (or any other lower carbon steel) they often will use a wedge of 15N20 in the center for the cutting edge of the blade.

It scales differently from regular carbon steel, but I think the nickel and chromium contents have a bit to do with lighter rusting. this is similar with the 5160, 8670m and L6.

I originally picked 15N20 because I could get it in the thickness I wanted and new it was a durable and tough steel. I have worked out my heat treat with it and think i've got a good edge forming, edge holding, and durable steel for ultralight knives.

I mostly use the other steels in thicker blades- L6 often for thinner stuff, too, and I love 5160 and 8670M in thick bush beater and langseax blades. Indestriuctable stuff, and really loves a convex geometry.
 
So far I've used my 15n20 leuku around the house for veggie chopping etc and the edge is as good as new. Made a wicked chunky beef and veggie stew last night with it, I can't wait to use it on my 5 day rafting trip coming up.
 
I think the Steel you use In your Knive's Is some of the Best for Knife Making, I really like the L6 Steel you used In making my Seax, This one was made from an Antique Saw Mill Blade and the Edge Holding capability's of this Steel Is Great and after use I alway's touch up the Convex Edge on my little Ceramic Sharpening device and It's back to Razor Sharp Real Quik, This Is one of my Favorite Koyote Custom's In Ipe Wood Scale's 5 1/2" L6 Steel Blade, 3/32" Thick, Modern Seax 10 3/4" OAL, And Koyote Girl's Sheath for this one was Top Shelf, I think all the Knive's I got from you Christof are In L6 and 15N20,

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