Is this dumb?

Joined
Jun 7, 2002
Messages
3,408
hi guys! a filipino here! first of all, i'm not a knife smith, never even tried to operate a forge or a mill press. i'm an afficionado of fine knives, though.

last week, i visited my brother's sand casting business where he made engine blocks and some hand tools. i noticed that the handles for mechanical wrenches had deep hollows on either side and sooo....

i asked them if they could cast a long wrench handle for me minus the wrench head and the hole at the end of the handle. it was 14 inches long, 1 1/4 inches wide, 3/8 inches thick and the hollows bite less than 1/8 inches on either side. i left without explaining why.

back at home, i turned on the bench grinder and patiently ground both sides to make a full-height v-angle. i fashioned the point to look a little like a katana. i'm not a good grinder and the symmetry was kinda bad. with the depressions from the casting, i ended up with a deep hollow grind: it was a mean-looking 10-inche blade if only it was made of forged steel.

i went back to the shop and consulted my bro on how to heat-treat ti. no one in the shop knew. so i put it in the furnace and heated it cherry-red (i think i read that one from randall) i took it out and dunk it in cold water. it didn't crack or warp. i was afraid it would be brittle as hell. now the tempering process: i looked up mad dog knives and moran. i put it back into the fire at a lower temperature and notice the knife blacken. i waited nearly an hour for a blue or yellow or whatever color to sho but there wasn't. and it started to redden again. so i lit a blow torch, grasped the blade with tongs and put it edge-down on a shallow pan with a 1/4 inch film of water. the edge sizzled and i blow torched the spine and point while the edge was in water. i did this for nearly an hour. i noticed some slight bluing near the spine.

and so, i had a lop-sided deep hollow-ground blade 10 inches long with what appears to be a temper line along the edge. i filed and ground it up for finishing. now, it almost looks genuine but i'm afraid it'll snap on the first torture test i put it into.

ok, back to reality for you guys...
thanks for reading...
 
Well, cast steel is not good as it gets grain the size of watermelons... Anyway, testing it is the only way to know if your heat treatment was good :)
After all, if it failed you can try again.
You'd better off buying som scrap spring leaf from a junkyard, anneal it, straighten and grind.
Then heat treat.
A trick for evaluating temp is to test the hot piece with a magnet: if the magnet doesn't stick to it, it's ready for quench.
Most steels must be quenched in oil (motor oil works fine).
To anneal simply heat to non-magnetic and let cool SLOOOOOOOWLY in a bucket of sand pre heated by dumping in a big chunk of red-hot iron or whatever.
 
Here is a link to a page that gives you some color vs. temperature. Your blue was probably 550 to 650 F.. Check it out; the link was given to me by someone on this forum when I was trying to figure this stuff out too (still am): http://www.knives.com/frameset.html

Roger
 
hey thanks for the advise, guys. i'm still not sure when i'll make the big leap to being a maker, but it'll come. glad to be talking to all of you.
 
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