Joining the Club

Thanks all. Ive enjoyed the process so far. Shape roughed out:
IMG_4197.JPG
Again, the perfect grind makes slicing bark away so easy. This was just like using a vegetable peeler.
IMG_4198.JPG
Easy carving in green wood but man the blade is slicey. Look how precise the edge can get.
IMG_4200.JPG

Next, I began working on the bowl of the spoon. Again, I'm a real novice but decided to see how narrow and deep I could fashion the depression, figuring that would be a real test for the point.
IMG_4199.JPG
So far so good!
IMG_4201.JPG
Well, that's it for now. I worked some more in the garage after dark but that doesn't make for good pics. I'll post some more when I can do you guys can chuckle at my goofy shaped attempt. I must say that after all this usage so far, the edge still push cuts copy paper. The A2 and heat treat are no joke!
 
I love user pics. Seeing a knife in use doing what it was intended to do. Now I need another Bush Hermit. Anybody have one?
 
Well done! Your opening really captures what it feels like to get that first Fiddleback. Add your photos and other comments and you've got a ready-made review. Anyone who likes using knives in the woods should have at least one Fiddleback. (Though they find they may not be able to have just one.)
 
Welcome and congratulations on the really cool score!! Tapered 5/32 is my favorite configuration for a hard working field knife, and that Lacewood is sweet!!
 
Well, wonky spoon project complete, for what it's worth!

IMG_4214.JPG

Things I've learned carving my first spoon:

I need a lot of spoon practice. Bush Hermit is very capable of everything from rough tasks to fine detail work. A2 holds an edge very well. Fiddleback handles (at least this one) make wood work feel like kitchen work. I can't believe how nimble and light this knife is. It's like driving a Porsche Boxster around back roads. Just aggressive and spirited yet fun and light. Makes me want to get my hands on an Arete or a Terrasaur.

Andy's heat treat puts A2 right up there with CPM steels for holding a useable edge. No lie. I sold a Survive! 3V blade (new spec 4.7 GSO) to fund this purchase and I have no regrets. 3V would of course outperform this steel but personally I don't feel it's a huge gap. That's really saying something. Given that the A2 should be easier to maintain an edge on, I'm really liking the steel. I have yet to touch the edge after 3+ hours of constant use and it still slices copy paper. Only the tip is a little ragged and trust me, I did a lot of digging with it while carving out the spoon bowl.

So, the picture above doesn't really show the mean palm swell I carved on the handle but the spoon is very comfortable in reverse grip and sure does baton the hell out of ice cream sundaes!

IMG_4213.JPG

Any suggestions as to my next project for the Awesome Hermit?
 
Last edited:
rswanson said:
Well, project complete, for what isn't worth!

View attachment 872669

Things I've learned carving my first spoon:

I need a lot of spoon practice. Bush Hermit is very capable of everything from rough tasks to fine detail work. A2 holds an edge very well. Fiddleback handles (at least this one) make wood work feel like kitchen work. I can't believe how nimble and light this knife is. It's like driving a Porsche Boxster around back roads. Just aggressive and spirited yet fun and light. Makes me want to get my hands on an Arete or a Terrasaur.

Andy's heat treat puts A2 right up there with CPM steels for holding a useable edge. No lie. I sold a Survive! 3V blade (new spec 4.7 GSO) to fund this purchase and I have no regrets. 3V would of course outperform this steel but personally I don't feel it's a huge gap. That's really saying something. Given that the A2 should be easier to maintain an edge on, I'm really liking the steel. I have yet to touch the edge after 3+ hours of constant use and it still slices copy paper. Only the tip is a little ragged and trust me, I did a lot of digging with it while carving out the spoon bowl.

So, the picture above doesn't really show the mean palm swell I carved on the handle but the spoon is very comfortable in reverse grip and sure does baton the hell out of ice cream sundaes!

View attachment 872695


Any suggestions as to my next project for the Awesome Hermit?
Click to expand...
thats great!
Thanks for taking the time
 
rswanson rswanson , as I was reading your posts, I started thinking that I'd like to try this with an Arete, even before you mentioned that model. Here's my attempt at carving a spoon using a tapered tang Arete with Maple burl and thick black liners.

I had some harvested poplar already cut, so here's what I started with.
39182441990_db1fb42cd0_b.jpg


After batoning out the handle.
40949893862_b6d418512f_b.jpg


After roughing out the rest.
40949891802_e0ec680aa7_b.jpg


At this point, I tried using the tip to remove material for the concave portion of the spoon and quickly realized that was going to take a long time. I applaud you for sticking with that technique. Me? I switched to curved woodcarving tool for that and continued using the Arete to refine the exterior.
40100567865_42a28c4bc3_b.jpg



I hiked back to the back of my property where there's a creek for the closing shot:
27122747338_6dc889a4cd_b.jpg
 
RobbieB said:
rswanson rswanson , as I was reading your posts, I started thinking that I'd like to try this with an Arete, even before you mentioned that model. Here's my attempt at carving a spoon using a tapered tang Arete with Maple burl and thick black liners.

I had some harvested poplar already cut, so here's what I started with.
39182441990_db1fb42cd0_b.jpg


After batoning out the handle.
40949893862_b6d418512f_b.jpg


After roughing out the rest.
40949891802_e0ec680aa7_b.jpg


At this point, I tried using the tip to remove material for the concave portion of the spoon and quickly realized that was going to take a long time. I applaud you for sticking with that technique. Me? I switched to curved woodcarving tool for that and continued using the Arete to refine the exterior.
40100567865_42a28c4bc3_b.jpg



I hiked back to the back of my property where there's a creek for the closing shot:
27122747338_6dc889a4cd_b.jpg
Click to expand...
That Arete is a thing of beauty! Thanks for the pics, too. I have to admit I was tempted to pull out a gouge to carve the spoon bowl but I really wanted to see what the tip was capable of. Nonetheless, great effort. I'm already planning to have a go at another. Need something for my corn flakes.
 
Well, I was a little overzealous this past weekend. Out for a leisurely hike in a local state park, I brought along the Hermit for a some continued testing. Attempting to harvest some fatwood from a dead branch plug on a white pine, I tested the tip a little too much I guess...

IMG_4243.JPG

You can see here that the tip did bend before it snapped. There is a minute deflection just prior to the break...

IMG_4246.JPG

First, in my defense, I've done this before but usually with a scandi-ground blade where the tip is much more robust. I wasn't prying that hard and a little twist is all it took.

Second, in my own condemnation, I should've known better. Even with my limited experience using this knife I should've realized the blade profile (particularly the tip) is more of a finesse design. It's a cutter- not a survival blade. I don't believe the steel or heat treat are at fault here- this is strictly user error.

I can joke and say "Hey, I guess I really use my knives!" But I'd be lying if I said I'm not a little bit heartsick at having used this beautiful blade to the point of abuse. Well, live and learn, right?

I did some searching through the Fiddleback BF subforum for other incidences of this and what to do next but it seems a case by case deal. I don't want to attempt the repair myself. Should I just shoot Andy and co. a message and see what can be done to reprofile the tip?
 
Ouch! Looks like you worked it a little too hard. That's such a nice looking knife it's a shame to see it without a tip. I'm sure Andy can re grind it for you. It will be interesting to see how it turns out with its new profile. Keep us posted.
 
well that sucks
send it in to the shop and we will fix it up

please include a note & return shipping address

Fiddleback Forge
C/O Phillip Chappell
2590 Business Dr
Suite 200
Cumming, Ga. 30028

sorry for the inconvenience
 
rswanson said:
Well, I was a little overzealous this past weekend. Out for a leisurely hike in a local state park, I brought along the Hermit for a some continued testing. Attempting to harvest some fatwood from a dead branch plug on a white pine, I tested the tip a little too much I guess...

View attachment 879813

You can see here that the tip did bend before it snapped. There is a minute deflection just prior to the break...

View attachment 879814

First, in my defense, I've done this before but usually with a scandi-ground blade where the tip is much more robust. I wasn't prying that hard and a little twist is all it took.

Second, in my own condemnation, I should've known better. Even with my limited experience using this knife I should've realized the blade profile (particularly the tip) is more of a finesse design. It's a cutter- not a survival blade. I don't believe the steel or heat treat are at fault here- this is strictly user error.

I can joke and say "Hey, I guess I really use my knives!" But I'd be lying if I said I'm not a little bit heartsick at having used this beautiful blade to the point of abuse. Well, live and learn, right?

I did some searching through the Fiddleback BF subforum for other incidences of this and what to do next but it seems a case by case deal. I don't want to attempt the repair myself. Should I just shoot Andy and co. a message and see what can be done to reprofile the tip?
Click to expand...
:eek:

That gave me the same feeling in the center of my chest as Fiddleback Friday unlock sharking time .. but not in a good way
 
VANCE said:
well that sucks
send it in to the shop and we will fix it up

please include a note & return shipping address

Fiddleback Forge
C/O Phillip Chappell
2590 Business Dr
Suite 200
Cumming, Ga. 30028

sorry for the inconvenience
Click to expand...
What do you think on approach? Swedge and bring the top down to the cutting edge in this case?
 
"... grind the spine down & edge up & meet in the middle."

That's just what he did on the Patch. My hope, and prediction, is that you'll like it, Russell.
 
NoRest said:
Ouch! Looks like you worked it a little too hard. That's such a nice looking knife it's a shame to see it without a tip. I'm sure Andy can re grind it for you. It will be interesting to see how it turns out with its new profile. Keep us posted.
Click to expand...
Oh, I definitely worked it too hard. Just to reiterate, this one is entirely my fault. Should've known better than to go tip first and twist.
VANCE said:
well that sucks
send it in to the shop and we will fix it up

please include a note & return shipping address

Fiddleback Forge
C/O Phillip Chappell
2590 Business Dr
Suite 200
Cumming, Ga. 30028

sorry for the inconvenience
Click to expand...
Vance, thanks for being all over this. No apologies necessary. As I've said, I take full blame for not heeding the design of the blade.
VANCE said:
grind the spine down & edge up & meet in the middle
Click to expand...
I'll be interested to see how it's handled. Hopefully the result is a stouter tip but I'll let the pros handle this. Is there any chance the small guard protrusion could be eliminated and the recurve taken out as well? Just asking- if it's too involved I completely understand. Those are things I can accomplish on my own easily enough. And since this is definitely a user now...haha.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top