July's primary project(mildly graphic photos)

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Salolan

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Feb 27, 2013
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I posted over in the Shop Talk area but thought I would post here as well as the sheath will be a challenge for me as well.

I have a gentleman wanting me to make him a knife using horn from a water buffalo that he shot for the handle. Now that I have the materials all together it is finally time to get started. I have had the blade ready now for a couple months but schedules just didn't allow a meet for the horn.
He also would like me to make him a sheath from the top of an old pair of boots. (I think I alluded to this project some months ago and why I'm posting here again). I've decided I will try my first inlay and try and cut a stitching pattern out of the boot to fit the panel. I'm also trying to figure out how to use the pull strap as the belt loop for the back of the sheath if I can.

o1u29h9.jpg


The boot top is lined of course and separating it would lose the stitching patterns. Would you guys recommend raising the inlay panel with foam or leave it flat since it is already 2 layers thick? Also, being as I've never done an inlay, I'm not sure what type of foam I should be using or if I should be using another material entirely to back raised panels.

Any thoughts or advice on the horn or the sheath are welcomed.

Thank you,
Chris
 
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can you "press" the edge that is going under the framework? Like....make the pattern you need, wet the 1/2" perimeter/around the outside and crush the shit out of that border with a board or set of clamps?

EDIT: Or, take a wire shirt hanger and heat it up, sliding it in the edge to"melt" the edge foam?
 
Very interesting project. Can`t wait to see how it turns out.
 
Great project. Take care when cutting the horn, I've heard the dust can be dangerous to you. Be sure to wear a mask and eye protection.

Looking forward for more info on this...
 
I finally cut on the horn today. I have to say there was more solid horn than I had thought there might be. I measured inside with a skewer and made my first cut within a 1/4" of where it turned solid. There ended up being about 12" of hollow and over 18" of solid horn.
Re93dro.jpg

I have a piece ground to just over the size I need. Going to let it set a couple days before I go any further. Brand new 40 grit belt on the 1x30 and had zero issues with heat build up.
Thanks for looking,
Chris
 
After reading the post by Stacy it sounded like it would be a very long time before you could use the horn, but I think I read that the solid stuff won't need the same time to stabilize?

With the few inlays I've done, I used the leather from the "window" behind the actual inlay. Having said that I don't believe I'll pad them anymore. I don't really like the look unless I'm using really thin snake skin. I skive the back side edges of the window. I wish I had some pics but I got lazy about taking pics for a while.

I think this will be a really cool project when done. Hopefully you'll be a little more proactive about taking pics than me. :)
 
I've cut up lots of different horns, Barbadoes goats, different sheep etc, never a buff. The solid parts were always good to go as long as the horn had aged some. When did he shoot the buff?
 
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While I admire your willingness to take on the challenge of the sheath, working with a worn boot top is not something I would take on to make a sheath. A handbag or something similar , yes, but a sheath, no. Items which can be made without cutting into the existing stitching are generally successful and look good when finished. I don't see much way of doing an inlay on a sheath that will be that small without cutting into the existing decorative stitching and the results after that are doubtful, in my opinion.

The inlay is, I think is going to "undo" the effect of the stitching, and I think the overall theme would be better suited if you scrap the inlay idea and just let the existing stitching be the embellishment.

As far as padding the inlay, I always split the piece to be inlaid to reduce the "step" in the window and then use the piece I cut out for the window as the backer or padding for the inlay and then cement to two spit pieces back together to the original thickness, with the inlay sandwiched in between. SPLITTING WILL NOT WORK WITH THE DECORATIVE STITCHED BOOT TOP.

I look forward to seeing your results. Good Luck.

Paul
 
Anthony, I'll try and do better about photos. Dave, I just spoke with him tonight, this horn is from a couple years ago. On another forum a gentleman recommended soaking the finished handle in thinned Boiled Linseed Oil. I think I will try this as even if it does nothing for the horn, the birch bark spacers I plan to add will benefit from it for sure. I also found out I now have a 3 week deadline, as he and his .375 H&H Mag are going back(Knife too barring any mishaps!) down under to hunt again. He said it is a cull hunt and they will be shooting buffalo, boar, and a few of the feral cattle. He said also where they are going this year there will be some type of wild oxen as well.

Paul, I greatly appreciate your thoughts. My plan for the inlay was to "bind" the thread with a minute amount of super glue so that it won't unravel from the cut. I also realized I wouldn't be able to split the layers of the boot top. I'll likely try as Anthony mentioned and try it without padding since it is already 2 layers. I too am concerned about the feasibility of the sheath project, but I feel I need to push myself to try new and more advanced projects. Worst case scenario, I am out some leather and a few hours time and make him a sheath without the boots as you've suggested. But I'll be able to say I tried. :eek:

Thanks fellas,
Chris
 
I was going to suggest a tiny drop of CA. I think you're on the right track. I'm into symmetry for the most part. Not sure if you are, but would it be possible with the boot top?

You better do well Chris because I have high expectations. ;) [emoji14]
 
To expand on my comments above regarding cutting into the stitching on the boot top. The fraying of the cut threads is the least of my concern, because that could be easily fixed, however the interruption of the flow of the stitching would be a major concern of mine as it regards overall aesthetics. My fear is that it will appear disconnected…no beginning, no end.

Paul
 
I have that concern as well Paul. I think I'll draw a couple different patterns and have a mock window to hold over the boot to see if something jumps out at me.

Chris
 
I'd imagine at a couple of years the solid part is probably good to go for how you're using it. I'd be very hesitant on the oil. I too would have Paul's concerns about a start and a stop to the pattern. Make him a staple pouch for the back of his saddle with that boot top.
 
Not related to the sheath but things took a step backwards on this project last night.
z9Ql9Zp.jpg

In trying to "tap" the pommel tight during glue up last night I knocked the guard loose. Ground it back down to the tang and starting over today....:(

Chris
 
Lots of punctuation marks seldom used.!!@@##$$%^&**()&^%$#!!
 
Tell me about it. I wasn't sure if I wanted to beat my head on the wall or just do some adult crying but spewing a string of choice expletives! lol
I went from having a lot of horn left for a handle to hoping the last piece would work. The first piece I tried revealed a void line that ended up going deeper than I had hoped and it was discarded. The last piece was still too small to try and get 2 solid sections from so it too ended up mostly a pile of dust on the shop floor. I now have it ground down somewhat close to the final shape and have the hole drilled. I'll give it a couple days to stabilized in it's new shape before I attempt a glue up again.

Chris
 
Well I just built the same sheath twice and put the knife through the back when wet forming it each time. Starting #3 right now. Getting good at tooling this guy's brand.
 
Huge bummer Chris. :( I do like how it looks so far though. I think if you can get it it'll look really good.
Horsewright said:
Well I just built the same sheath twice and put the knife through the back when wet forming it each time. Starting #3 right now. Getting good at tooling this guy's brand.
Click to expand...
Dave, you don't tape up the blade before forming? I guess maybe it's because I'm used to making sheaths for carbon blades whereas you usually use stainless, but I cover the edge with tape, wrap the blade in cellophane and tape it up. I goofed up one of my carbon knives and decided on better protection. Making sheaths covers my expenses plus a tiny bit more. I can't damage a customers knife! :eek: [emoji15] [emoji27]
 
Finally finished the knife up this weekend. I am quite pleased with how it turned out.
dLlZioP.jpg

Now to get the sheath finished up this week so the knife can go on a hunt in Australia the following week!

Chris
 
That's awesome! Looks like there are some striations in the horn? Does the black just appear while buffing?

I have a buffalo horn handled knife, but it doesn't have any of the pretty streaks.

Great job. Let's see that sheath. :)
 
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