KA-BAR 1217 handle refurb

Ruari

Ruari

Joined
Jul 5, 2014
Messages
3,517
So. KA-BAR, thanks again to their sales department, have very kindly sent me a replacement pommel pin which will allow me to remove the current pommel, remove the leather handle and then conduct the refurb.
Question is, which side of rhe pin should be inserted into the pommel first?
 
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It is indeed pointy side in, as found out after drilling it the old one out. The knife gods must have been smiling on me as even with a hand drill I managed to drill it out pretty much perfectly.



 
It wasn't too difficult to remove the handle once I'd got the pin out.



 
I then found a piece of leather, traced the outline of the front spacer and cut it out with my Spyderco UKPK.



Then I slid the handle back on, making sure it was all properly lined up.



Now, do I smash the pin in and smooth it out, or just epoxy it in and cut the remaining protruberance off?
 
I'd say epoxy plus a couple of good taps before the epoxy sets. I'm no expert but surely the historic way the pin was held in place was mechanical.
 
You did a good job on it. :thumbup: I've done this with one of mine as well. Use gorilla glue, it will expand when it dries. Use a liberal amount, then wipe excess off with a paper towel or rag after you push the pin in and give it a few taps with a hammer. I would recommend using a belt sander to get rid of the excess pin, then use 2000 grit wet/dry paper (automotive finishing paper) or a Metal Finishing Pad for a finish. You can find both of these at a large home improvement store. (Lowes, Menards, Car Stores ect.)
2000 grit wet/dry automotive finishing paper leaves a satin finish. Even better when used with a product called Flitz metal polish or happitch polishing paste. Either will work.
Metal Finishing Pads are six dollars at hardware stores such as menards or lowes and leave a basic flat metal finish. This might be easier for you. I restored one of my kabars this way.
To make the handle finish all match 100%, buy a product called Sno-Seal. It is a beeswax product that completely waterproofs leather and wont harm steel. It will plump up old leather and preserve it for years to come. It also will give the leather more grip. Apply it with a rag liberally to the leather handle and cover the entire handle with aluminum foil to keep the product in. Use a blow drier on medium/high heat to liquefy the product in the foil. Keep the Sno-Seal in the foil and heated for 5-10 minutes, flipping the knife every minute. Your Leather will all be the same color, plumped up a bit, waterproofed, and restored. You will probably need to buy this from the website, it is hard to find in stores. I have used this for all my Kabars and Cattaraugus 225Q. Good stuff. The product will slightly darken the leather, just fyi.
http://www.atsko.com/search.php?search_query=sno+seal
Hope this helps.
-Zemapeli
 
Thanks Dunkem and Zemapeli. It turns out I needed to get the pommel and handle a little more compressed to get the pin all the way in, so it is now flush with the pommel, without any abrasion necessary. There is a small gap all the way around the pin, so I think some two part epoxy will fill it up and retain it nicely.
Zemapeli - being in the UK, Sno Seal is not readily available and will take about two weeka with expensive shipping to arrive. Would normal beeswax suffice? I have a tin of pure beeswax to hand that I'm keen to use, rather than have to wait and spend a load of money. Or, convince me that it's the best thing to do?!
I'm definitely going to remove the current superglue finish and use a good sealant.
 
Sanded down




Detail of the pin, after applying extra pressure to the pommel to compress the leather handle, I was able to get the pin all the way in. I will use a two part epoxy to fill in and seal the pin to the pommel.


 
Reading a few reviews etc I've decided to be patient and have ordeeed the Sno Seal - if you're going to do a job, do it well and once.
Wait out!
 
Sno Seal applied, let's see how this goes. I'm letting it sink in before buffing it up.
 
Looking good. Sno Sealed the handle and clear epoxied the pin into the pommel.








Anđ safely ensconced in its old Blackhawk! sheath.
 
Thanks TBL, I'm pleased with it, it's been good to give this knife a new lease of life as it were.
I've just taken delivery of a new 1217, it's funny how much I still like my old one more!
 
Nothing can take the place of your 'go to' knife ;) but having one in each hand always brings a smile to my face :D
 
Thanks Semper, it's really pleasing to have given it a fresh lease of life and toghtened up the handle.
I bought the sheath in 2005, it's held up really well and I've had it modified with MOLLE on the rear.
 
I have a Ka-bar USMC fighting knife which I purchase in 1988/89. The leather stacks on the handle has cracked up pretty badly so I decided that I would try to replace it after watching a video of a replacement attempt on youtube.

However i am still having difficulties getting the pommel off the tang. I have drilled the pommel to remove the pin but somehow it wont come off. Then I figured that perhaps I did not drill deep enough and hence i continued drilling (using a hand drill) until the drill bit went through the entire pommel. Still the tang would not come off.

On hindsight, I took a second hole at the hole which i drilled and I discover that it may not have been perfectly straight to the centre of the tang. It is kinda off centre.

What are my options at this point now that I have drilled it completely through, albeit, wrongly. Should I try to re-drill to make a bigger hole?

I managed to get the replacement leather stacks (which came without any pommel or pin)

Will be grateful for any kind of assistance.
 
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